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Old 09-16-2014, 11:58 AM   #5551
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Extra droop can easily be added by just unscrewing the shock rod ends (as well as removing limiters inside the shocks).

We do this from time to time on certain low traction tracks

Adding droop will result in more weight transferring when entering and exiting corners.

It will generally be less stable but will give you more traction on corner exit (more front droop) and more turn-in on corner entry (more rear droop).

Bent
I forgot about the internal spacer/limiter, I'll remove them and also unscrew the shock ends to see if it helps.

Thanks,
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:12 PM   #5552
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Do you guys run front swaybar?

I'm running indoor med bite track, trying to get the sweeper after long straight a little faster. I have not been running the front, but its swaybar or shock limiters..
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Old 09-16-2014, 02:13 PM   #5553
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Do you guys run front swaybar?

I'm running indoor med bite track, trying to get the sweeper after long straight a little faster. I have not been running the front, but its swaybar or shock limiters..
Yes……always on the 4WD…..from 1.0mm all the way up to 2.0mm.

Running a sway bar will let you run a softer shock setup for more grip and still be able to limit/control chassis roll

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Old 09-16-2014, 03:54 PM   #5554
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So I had my XB4 on the drivers stand wall next to a HB D413 and noticed the D413 has a bit more suspension travel than the XB4. My question is, has anyone ever experimented with different shock shafts or shocks to increase suspension travel? My other thought is to not thread the eyelet in all the way to gain a slight bit of travel might be helpful to get more travel (helpful on the current indoor track configuration I run on).

Thanks,
I have turned mine out a cpl turns too i ended up breaking an outdrive expensive lesson learned
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:49 PM   #5555
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I run 2mm limiters in the front and back, then unscrew the rear shock ends a 1mm to get the right droop.

No limiters = broken diff outdrive**.

Front sway bars - for indoors, yes. Outdoors, I have not run a front sway bar in a long time - I found it made my buggy too twitchy. But I like the idea of more grip, so I may go back to it next year (our outdoor season is almost over)

**See Bentka's explanation below for further detail.
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Last edited by HeavyD99; 09-17-2014 at 06:38 AM.
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Old 09-16-2014, 06:19 PM   #5556
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I run 2mm limiters in the front and back, then unscrew the rear shock ends a 1mm to get the right droop. No limiters = broken diff outdrive.

Front sway bars - for indoors, yes. Outdoors, I have not run a front sway bar in a long time - I found it made my buggy too twitchy. But I like the idea of more grip, so I may go back to it next year (our outdoor season is almost over)
No swaybars and no internal limiters. No problems at all. Tyler Vik runs no limiters. Have not seen him have issues.
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Old 09-16-2014, 07:31 PM   #5557
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Well, as outdoor season comes to a close and indoor starts to ramp up, I'm going to do a bit of a tear down and a rebuild to get ready for carpet racing.

Bearings: My buggy is a year old - probably 25-30 race days on it running clay outdoors, the bearings feel ok, but how often do you guys replace them - are the OEM bearings from Xray considered high quality? I'm replacing my B5 bearings with Avid's, so....
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:10 PM   #5558
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
Well, as outdoor season comes to a close and indoor starts to ramp up, I'm going to do a bit of a tear down and a rebuild to get ready for carpet racing.

Bearings: My buggy is a year old - probably 25-30 race days on it running clay outdoors, the bearings feel ok, but how often do you guys replace them - are the OEM bearings from Xray considered high quality? I'm replacing my B5 bearings with Avid's, so....
replace Slipper shaft bearings and rear hub inners for sure..
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:04 PM   #5559
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did you not scroll up the page to post #5537
sorry when i lined up my holes they are a little off from the pics so i wanted to see another pic before i drilled.
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Old 09-17-2014, 12:35 AM   #5560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
Well, as outdoor season comes to a close and indoor starts to ramp up, I'm going to do a bit of a tear down and a rebuild to get ready for carpet racing.

Bearings: My buggy is a year old - probably 25-30 race days on it running clay outdoors, the bearings feel ok, but how often do you guys replace them - are the OEM bearings from Xray considered high quality? I'm replacing my B5 bearings with Avid's, so....
clean the bearings with motor spray. blow dry and relube. replace the ones that are needed. I check my bearings about every 2-3 weeks (im racing 2-3 times a week)
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Old 09-17-2014, 03:59 AM   #5561
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Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY View Post
I have turned mine out a cpl turns too i ended up breaking an outdrive expensive lesson learned
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
I run 2mm limiters in the front and back, then unscrew the rear shock ends a 1mm to get the right droop. No limiters = broken diff outdrive.

Front sway bars - for indoors, yes. Outdoors, I have not run a front sway bar in a long time - I found it made my buggy too twitchy. But I like the idea of more grip, so I may go back to it next year (our outdoor season is almost over)
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
No swaybars and no internal limiters. No problems at all. Tyler Vik runs no limiters. Have not seen him have issues.


Saying; No limiters = broken diff outdrive will only be correct for certain set-ups as shock mounting position as well as your hinge pin inserts will determine the need for limiters or not.

Two identical shock setups will have different need of limiters depending on the position of your hinge pin inserts. Running them on the inside will require less droop (more limiters) than running the inserts on the outside.

You always want to make sure your drive shafts don't hit the outdrives on full compression or at full droop.
Driveshafts hitting the outdrives will not only bind up the suspension but will also weaken the outdrives over time.

So a useful tip could be to run your track width wider by positioning the hinge pin inserts further out as this will give the driveshafts a greater range of movement without hitting the outdrives and allow you to run more droop

Bent
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Old 09-17-2014, 04:55 AM   #5562
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Yeah, I was also wondering what the common things are to replace, I drove him a whole season but only changed broken parts, He has allot of play on the steering, does this make the car more unstable or something?

Also, when do you replace you're orings?
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:33 AM   #5563
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Originally Posted by ronzo View Post
sorry when i lined up my holes they are a little off from the pics so i wanted to see another pic before i drilled.
your bottom plate should look just like mine.. Post a pic of where you marked your holes. You turned the slipper around?
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Old 09-17-2014, 11:14 AM   #5564
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Saying; No limiters = broken diff outdrive will only be correct for certain set-ups as shock mounting position as well as your hinge pin inserts will determine the need for limiters or not.

Two identical shock setups will have different need of limiters depending on the position of your hinge pin inserts. Running them on the inside will require less droop (more limiters) than running the inserts on the outside.

You always want to make sure your drive shafts don't hit the outdrives on full compression or at full droop.
Driveshafts hitting the outdrives will not only bind up the suspension but will also weaken the outdrives over time.

So a useful tip could be to run your track width wider by positioning the hinge pin inserts further out as this will give the driveshafts a greater range of movement without hitting the outdrives and allow you to run more droop

Bent
Great info - Thank You!
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Old 09-17-2014, 01:56 PM   #5565
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Great info - Thank You!
No problem…..glad to be of help

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