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Old 09-09-2014, 11:05 AM   #5521
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Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY View Post
Lefty loosey, righty tighty???
not if you're holding the car from the front... then you are doing it backwards
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:30 PM   #5522
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A friend of mine just got an xb4 and we wanted to know if there is an alternative to the composite ring and pinion gear in the diffs.
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:36 PM   #5523
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A friend of mine just got an xb4 and we wanted to know if there is an alternative to the composite ring and pinion gear in the diffs.
Steel diff parts are available from the touring car.
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:38 PM   #5524
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Got to test out a HotBodies D413 this past weekend back to back with my XB4 14. I felt the Xray was more planted in the corners and whoops and almost felt/appeared like it had a longer wheelbase . The D413 was very smooth, but the steering felt a bit too twitchy for my preference. Unfortunately my rear ring and pinion gears took a crap on me making a very audible clicking noise as I took to the track. I actually think the initial damage occurred when I checked my slipper (held the back wheels and gave it throttle to check slippage/ front end lift) as it drove fine up until that point. Needless to say I have now backed the slipper off a bit more (I'm now at 6.6mm) and hope this was a fluke , but ordered another set of gears just in case . Anyhow after driving both of these buggys back to back I'm still very happy with the Xray, hopefully I can say the same at the end of the local indoor season too .
I myself turned in faster lap times here and there with the HB, but through a full qualifier I am more consistently faster then the HB car.
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:40 PM   #5525
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Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
I set my slipper once when I built it, and have only had to reset it when I chew a spur from the motor coming loose. I set it to be as tight as I could make it by hand (not using tools on that nut over the spring) and that's been spot on for me
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:41 PM   #5526
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Steel diff parts are available from the touring car.
direct bolt in?
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:43 PM   #5527
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direct bolt in?
Yup. Drop fits right in.
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:45 PM   #5528
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Yup. Drop fits right in.
do you know the part number for the ring gear and input gear?
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:51 PM   #5529
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do you know the part number for the ring gear and input gear?
The ring and pinion gear from the touring car do not fit as far as I know, It is the internal diff gears that can be used from the Nitro Touring.
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Old 09-09-2014, 01:46 PM   #5530
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The ring and pinion gear from the touring car do not fit as far as I know, It is the internal diff gears that can be used from the Nitro Touring.
Whoops.. Your right. Sorry about that.
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Old 09-09-2014, 02:07 PM   #5531
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Originally Posted by PoorBoy534 View Post
yea just the full length upper deck, the rest is just work and well worth it.
can you give a step by step on what to do so I can run my shorty's in this. Maybe a couple pictures would be great. Thanks a ton as I think this is key for the upcoming indoor season here in Michigan. thanks and cant wait to try it, my upper deck should be here friday
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Old 09-09-2014, 05:19 PM   #5532
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Hard to see how people are breaking the ring and pinion. Could someone post a pic of their trashed stuff please.
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Old 09-09-2014, 06:24 PM   #5533
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Hard to see how people are breaking the ring and pinion. Could someone post a pic of their trashed stuff please.
I don't think "breaking" is the right word. Rather, I've personally had a few seem to fall out of mesh and chew themselves up. The teeth ended up looking like they were worn down halfway.

But, I put all new gears and did 3 additional things at the same time and haven't had a problem since. Of course, now I don't know what is was that fixed the problem, but here's what I did:

- Went from a 6.5 to a 7.5 motor
- Changed slipper pads from the crappy black rubbery ones that didn't slip right to the new, proper ones
- Shimmed the right side of each diff to push the mesh together a little bit

As to the 3rd part, a friend and I surmised that the inside of the diff cases themselves might be wearing a little bit, causing the diff to move a little bit back and forth. We figured that shimming it would make up the gap that resulted from the worn in diff case. Of course, changing the diff case every now and then would work too.
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:15 PM   #5534
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Update..

So I tackled the shorty swap today.. Few pics. I have not driven it yet, will do wed night.







The car handles Amazing.. I lost 120 grams, including the brass weights. The car steers better, and is more forgiving. Jumps better and can push faster in the sweepers.


The receiver had to be turned around from the picture, as the wires rubbed on the body.

I dont have the full center top deck yet, will have it Fri.

watch the center section, as the plastic chassis is two different thicknesses, so make sure everything is even when mounting the slipper. Check the bearings several times for binding or you will be eating them up.( Also, make sure it is centered, as the battery is real tight to the slipper nut. )

OK, so for centering the diff.. I would not, and wont on my other car. I will push it aprox 1mm to the left side. The battery is too tight, and the slipper nut/drive pin rubs slightly. It wont ruin your battery, but I dont like it. The upper deck holes will need some work also if you go this route. I also have some foam stuck on the center brace to keep the battery pushed all the way out, away from driveshaft.

The diffs need to be run backwards. So the spur gear will be on the opposite side as factory. There will be some trenching in the chassis for fitment.

I also dont have a great solution for the battery tie down yet, so I will be using two sided tape for now. A piece of carbon would work, but I dont have one here.

Last edited by MaricopaAgent; 09-17-2014 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:43 PM   #5535
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Thanks for the pics Tony
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