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Old 09-03-2014, 04:21 PM   #5476
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
lol, I am not trying to troll you. I run on high bite. So wheel spin will be minimal. We currently run clay slicks with no sauce. And I know that the center gear diff transfers power front to back. But unless the slipper is decoupled like the sc10 4x4, it is not really like a center diff. Tekno came out with a slipperential a while back. Seemed like a good idea to save the drive terrain and provide power transfer from the front and rear wheels. But the idea never caught on. My thinking is that the center diff on high bite will heighten the issues with the ring/pinion. I suspect the ring/pinion gear issues are much less on lower bite tracks. I recently moved from low bite tracks to high bite, and the wear and tear on my drive terrain has greatly increased. All that I am getting at is...The steel ring and pinion might make for great option parts, if they are release at the same time as the 2015 car. Just like the slipper vs center diff is an option, stronger ring and pinion gears should be an option as well. The cactus classic has a 13.5 4wd buggy class. And I am sure the lighter ring/pinion gears will be wanted. Plus a 13.5 is not overly powerful and probably wont blow them up. But a 6.5 on high bite will be more likely to. But blaming the drivers for not having the right slipper setting, for blown gears, is a little on the weak side. IMO, the slipper setting arguments are just a band-aid fix.
Well….here in Europe we run a lot on very high bite astro turf with spike and pin tires which puts a lot more stress on the drivetrain than a clay track ever will.

Just today we did another 5 hours of practicing with the aim of working on setup and increasingly up the speed…..and this was on high bite astro with Schumacher Mini Spike tires.

And again……NO problems….no broken parts……..and yes she was once again the fastest car out here.

It's not a band aid……it's an essential part of the setup process…….always has been and always will be.

When running the center diff in the XB4 we remove the slipper completely.

There's no slipper when running a center diff.


And yes I've raced the SC10 4x4 myself…….also with the center diff and the garodiscs……..this was the car Malin started her R/C racing with



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Old 09-03-2014, 04:28 PM   #5477
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I would hate to see you guys with diff/slipper dyslexia problems running a 4wd model that uses ball diffs . I had umpteen B44 models before my XB4s, and if you over-tightened that slipper even a little, you'd shred a ball diff within the first 3 hot laps, especially when you land a jump on power. I run on a high bite clay track where we use slicks in the winter as well. I agree that high bite wears on a drive-train twice as fast as loose. I know when we run mod 2wd buggy, I'm rebuilding my ball diff once per month. Despite this, I still have yet to destroy my XB4 gears after a full season of racing every weekend.
I suggested earlier that these guys should try and race and setup a B44/.1

Most of them wouldn't be able to make a single lap………….then they WOULD have to learn

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fanboi fanboi fanboi fanboi!!! hahaha I couldn't help it

I adjust my slippers all the time due to all the surfaces I race on. Plus the change of track conditions is a huge factor. I just watched the video and I learned something new about the car being to squirly from the down sides. Thank you Bent for posting.

I have 2 xb4's and 1 xb4/2... and if my son who races his in novice has zero issues other than breaking wing mounts and wings I think im doing something right
Ha ha ha ha………best part was being called a "fanboi" for trying to explain how important droop and up travel limiters are for the performance as well.

I get questions and comments about how smooth Malin jumps and drives all the time and not taking anything away from her but a properly setup car that don't have a suspension or drivetrain that binds up on landing is key to get those perfect landings and being able to get on throttle earlier and harder

Sounds like you and your son are enjoying your Xray's

And you're very welcome

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Old 09-03-2014, 04:40 PM   #5478
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Here's an example of the setup we used for the Swedish National Championship a couple of weeks ago.

Very high bite astro turf with Schumacher Mini Spike tires and CENTER DIFF with composite gears and 1.000.000 cst diff grease !!!

Front and rear diffs had 8000 cst oil and all stock gears and shimming.

No issues what so ever



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Old 09-03-2014, 05:09 PM   #5479
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Bent you got to take in consideration that tracks are different here in the US then over there. I can say that my slipper is set 100% right and have tried 2 different setting having both of them blow the gears. I will say that i have found it happen at some tracks and NOT at others. what I have found is that it seems to happen at tracks that have a Fine Sand (like beach sand) and that it works its way into the diff case. now I dont just check the slipper but I open the diff case up and blow it out so that there isnt any real find sand in it. not trying to start a agreement but maybe from what I have seen is that the tracks surface might be a factor that no one has talked about yet. Ever time I have had a gear go bad it has been at the same 2 tracks while at the other 3 to 4 tracks I have had 0 issues. also when they do go bad there has always been a sand/plastic/grease compound in the diff. I hope this helps.

When you say sand in the diff, do you mean inside the diff (mixed with the diff oil) or do you mean in the rear/front bulkhead (sand over the diff and bevel gear)?
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:17 PM   #5480
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When you say sand in the diff, do you mean inside the diff (mixed with the diff oil) or do you mean in the rear/front bulkhead (sand over the diff and bevel gear)?
Good question.

Reading it again he might actually be talking about sand inside the bulkhead

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Old 09-03-2014, 05:22 PM   #5481
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Originally Posted by TV View Post
........
If you can't hear the slipper whine when you punch it, and the car hits you in the face, it's too tight. ........
Now, that would hurt.


But, I would wet my pants laughing if I saw it.


I can visualize now. The next big RC youtube hit.
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Old 09-03-2014, 08:09 PM   #5482
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My shorty conversation xb4
i was able to get some test time on my shorty conversion , i was a little nervous because because i really enjoyed my xb4, and I've raced sx3 , b44.1, b44.2 and my xb4 would run 1 sec a lap time faster consistently . but i couldn't believe it but the shorty conversion is even better, even more predictable and one of the best things about the car handling was when I'm pushing the car hard and it would get upset or a little out of shape , i could bring it wright back instead of the weight keep going in the wrong direction. the car was even more predictable and it was fine before , and lighter would jump better. really looking forward to racing it this friday , i race indoor clay it was worth the work.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:09 PM   #5483
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i was able to get some test time on my shorty conversion , i was a little nervous because because i really enjoyed my xb4, and I've raced sx3 , b44.1, b44.2 and my xb4 would run 1 sec a lap time faster consistently . but i couldn't believe it but the shorty conversion is even better, even more predictable and one of the best things about the car handling was when I'm pushing the car hard and it would get upset or a little out of shape , i could bring it wright back instead of the weight keep going in the wrong direction. the car was even more predictable and it was fine before , and lighter would jump better. really looking forward to racing it this friday , i race indoor clay it was worth the work.
Could you show some close up pics of your handy work? Also did you go down on your shock fluid?
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:00 AM   #5484
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i was able to get some test time on my shorty conversion , i was a little nervous because because i really enjoyed my xb4, and I've raced sx3 , b44.1, b44.2 and my xb4 would run 1 sec a lap time faster consistently . but i couldn't believe it but the shorty conversion is even better, even more predictable and one of the best things about the car handling was when I'm pushing the car hard and it would get upset or a little out of shape , i could bring it wright back instead of the weight keep going in the wrong direction. the car was even more predictable and it was fine before , and lighter would jump better. really looking forward to racing it this friday , i race indoor clay it was worth the work.
Yeah, I want a detailed explanation of how you did this. In flipping the full length top deck, you had to move the center diff toward the front of the car. And I would assume you had to do some serious dremeling to remove the plastic from the chassis where the saddle packs rest as well as perhaps that small square in the center where the back of the diff cradle mounts normally. Did you have to drill custom holes in the chassis when you flipped the motor mount as well as custom holes and stand-offs for the plastic part of the diff holder?
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:57 AM   #5485
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Here you go:

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


And for every time some of the guys here start whining about setting your slipper correctly being a "fanboi" comment I will post this as a response

Bent
+1000

Did they change the chassis on the XB4? Mine does not look the same as the one I had earlier in the year. No speed control to battery wire hold downs anymore. Confused...
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:02 AM   #5486
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+1000

Did they change the chassis on the XB4? Mine does not look the same as the one I had earlier in the year. No speed control to battery wire hold downs anymore. Confused...
A brand new one I bought in july had the same thing, they must've made a rolling update somewhere along the lines.
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:20 AM   #5487
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When you say sand in the diff, do you mean inside the diff (mixed with the diff oil) or do you mean in the rear/front bulkhead (sand over the diff and bevel gear)?
I mean in the Rear bulkhead, Also a key point I forgot to point out is I have NEVER, not even once blown a front Bevel Gear or Composite, it always seems to be the rear when it does go. I also run a Vst2 5.5t motor on big air tracks so I do know some of the broken gears could be from me getting on it alittle early. but for me it seems to blow at the tracks with sand like dirt in the compound. I also always change both gears when 1 goes bad, Just something I learned from 1/8 about them being broken in together.

to be honest Im not all that mad about them blowing here and there because face it, Shic happens, but when a company says COMING SOON and its been almost a year, something is wrong there...
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Old 09-04-2014, 11:02 AM   #5488
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A brand new one I bought in july had the same thing, they must've made a rolling update somewhere along the lines.
I liked the tabs myself. Was easier to route wires.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:45 PM   #5489
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I mean in the Rear bulkhead, Also a key point I forgot to point out is I have NEVER, not even once blown a front Bevel Gear or Composite, it always seems to be the rear when it does go. I also run a Vst2 5.5t motor on big air tracks so I do know some of the broken gears could be from me getting on it alittle early. but for me it seems to blow at the tracks with sand like dirt in the compound. I also always change both gears when 1 goes bad, Just something I learned from 1/8 about them being broken in together.

to be honest Im not all that mad about them blowing here and there because face it, Shic happens, but when a company says COMING SOON and its been almost a year, something is wrong there...

5.5t.....monster power. This may be the reason behind the rear one failing. The rear failing is normally causes from motor power (and other things ) and the front will fail if your breaks are set to high or if you are one of those driver that thinks by keeping the throttle open will help there car in clearing the triples that you are about to fall short on.


Check your slipper....


Our track surface is clay brick dust and I also have dust in my bulkheads. Yes, it will prematurely wear the gears out, but this has never cause my diff gears to fail. I don't change them that often. I normally replace my cars every 6months. It enters the case from the two hole in the chassis. From the screws that hold the bulkheads together. You can put a drop of silicone sealant to completely seal it (inside the bulkhead).




A quote from another driver in this thread.
"If one breaks alloy caster blocks with plastic spindles , what do you think is gna happen when you install alloy spindles?
Sumn's gna give!!!"
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:37 PM   #5490
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Yeah, I want a detailed explanation of how you did this. In flipping the full length top deck, you had to move the center diff toward the front of the car. And I would assume you had to do some serious dremeling to remove the plastic from the chassis where the saddle packs rest as well as perhaps that small square in the center where the back of the diff cradle mounts normally. Did you have to drill custom holes in the chassis when you flipped the motor mount as well as custom holes and stand-offs for the plastic part of the diff holder?
yea you have to dermal out the center and were the batteries go , and you also have to dermal out the front and rear diff on the opposite side so you can flip the diff. over. and you have to drill new holes in the bottom back bone chasey . but it looks really clean when your done, takes some work but really worth it i over the xb4 before and its even better. ill try and post some more pics soon. racing it tomorrow night.
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