Xray XB4 thread
#5026
Good luck
#5029
I really like the Dirt webs so far, but for your track I'd ask the other drivers what seems to work best on that particular surface and go from there.
#5030
I really like the Dirt webs so far, but for your track I'd ask the other drivers what seems to work best on that particular surface and go from there.
#5032
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
1. you may have to ream out the hole a little bit as the stub axles are a different size .
2. and most important that i found is that the durango wheels make the track width narrower and although its not much it made the car impossible to dirve for me personally .
i just bought the xray wheels which work best , however , looking back on it i wished i had gotten either the exotek or jconcepts hex kit for the car which allows you to run losi or associated rears and kyosho 4x4 fronts ...the adapters keep the same track width ...in the end i just order a couple a sets of xray rims every time i make an order with absolute hobbyz or amain
this all sucked for me because i went from the dingo to the xray and i had a brazzilion sets of tires ...but the car is beastmode best ive driven
#5033
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
Make sure there is no oil in the threads on the screw or shaft. Loctite doesn't work well if the surface isn't clean.
When I built my car the diffs didn't need any shimming but after a while they got a little bit of play and I blew out a rear ring gear. After shimming them I haven't had any problems and I run on super high bite with a 5.5 and the slipper pretty tight.
When I built my car the diffs didn't need any shimming but after a while they got a little bit of play and I blew out a rear ring gear. After shimming them I haven't had any problems and I run on super high bite with a 5.5 and the slipper pretty tight.
The problem ended up being the plastic shroud over the center front cvd ...puked the drive pin right out ..i had replaced all the 4 corners with the upgraded aluminum shrouds but didnt do the centers as i had no problems with them previous ...to anyone running this car i highly recommend the aluminum shrouds on all 6 cvds
Yep I just re-read your post and see I clearly missed some pertinent info that I can't even blame on drunkenness, but I should . I think someone else mentioned watching out for oil or grease contamination with the loctite while assembling, that's all I got....
Good luck
Good luck
#5034
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
here is the aluminum collars
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...ducts_id=17244
also i found out that the durango cvd barrels are a direct fit for the xray cvds ...this is a good thing due to they allow for a set screw to hold the pin in ...i had some left over from my dingo so i installed them as well ...i think its a good thing because it gives you just that much more protection
heres the part ...not sure the size of the set screw but i just had some laying around that worked
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=2579
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...ducts_id=17244
also i found out that the durango cvd barrels are a direct fit for the xray cvds ...this is a good thing due to they allow for a set screw to hold the pin in ...i had some left over from my dingo so i installed them as well ...i think its a good thing because it gives you just that much more protection
heres the part ...not sure the size of the set screw but i just had some laying around that worked
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=2579
#5037
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
set of front and rear arms
set of hinge pins
spur gear
2x ring and pinion gears
the collars are a must in my opinion after running many packs you will have problems with the cvds puking out drive pins if you dont have the upgraded collars
make sure to set the slipper correctly by the measurement given in the manual
other than that i have only broken 1 front and 1 rear arm and puked out almost every drive pin before getting the aluminum collars ....very durable car for sure