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Old 06-06-2014, 09:42 AM   #4876
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Finally got my XB4 done. Tekin RSX & 6.5t motor, ProTek 130SS servo, SMC 5600 batteries. I also got the DMX body for it (its the stock 2wd body I think) and I can tell I am going to need the short body mount post in the front but am not sure about the rear? has anybody used this body before and know if I need both or just one?
Looking Good Joe! I'll have mine at Innovative tonight if ya feel like running
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:48 AM   #4877
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Default XB4 parts

Ive been officially sold on buying a XB4, without reading 326 posts here on this XB4 thread what parts should I buy as spares/backups along with the kit or necessary upgrades? Im pretty sure its not many parts. I race at a high bite indoor clay track (1/8 scale size); do I need to buy the carbon arm inserts?
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:53 AM   #4878
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Most parts that your gna end up needing are on back order in most places and have been so for over a month
i guess there is always flea bay
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:05 PM   #4879
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Ive been officially sold on buying a XB4, without reading 326 posts here on this XB4 thread what parts should I buy as spares/backups along with the kit or necessary upgrades? Im pretty sure its not many parts. I race at a high bite indoor clay track (1/8 scale size); do I need to buy the carbon arm inserts?
I race on a medium sized high bite indoor clay track in the winter. The car performs great without the carbon arm inserts. The XB4 is super durable! There are only two things to watch out for in my opinion. 1) the front center drive cvd will get dry and the pin will slowly walk out. Yes, it even pushes through the plastic cvd collar. Buy the Exotek aluminum drive cvd collars, then there is now way for the pin to walk out. I only use them on the center, the rest of cvds don't seem to suffer from the same problem. Keep these greased every so often to keep the drive train smooth and prevent wear. 2) The plastic gear diffs are very durable, however . . . if you're stuck on a pipe or against a wall, don't try to power out of it! I rounded the crown and input gears on two separate occasions doing this. If you're putting power to through the gears with that much resistance, it will round the crown and input gears. It didn't chip or shred them, it just rounded a few splines down. The car still accelerated like a champ, but under hard breaking I could hear the gears skip.

With that being said, I would buy a few crown and input gears. I've not yet broken anything else on the car, so I hesitate to tell you to buy much than that. But I keep a spare set of front arms, front shock shafts, spur gear and cvd pins, that's about it. The car is absolutely amazing in terms of performance and durability!
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:29 PM   #4880
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Front out drives , front bulkhead shock shafts n bottom ends are great to have and ive stripped internal gears in diff
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:44 PM   #4881
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Anyone else have to dremel off the battery lead retaining tab to get their rx to fit??
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Old 06-06-2014, 02:07 PM   #4882
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Knifed mine off formy rsx and put rx behind the motor up front
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Old 06-06-2014, 03:27 PM   #4883
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Anyone else have to dremel off the battery lead retaining tab to get their rx to fit??
Apparently it so common that xray did a running update to leave it out.
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Old 06-06-2014, 03:39 PM   #4884
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Knifed mine off formy rsx and put rx behind the motor up front
Thats where mine is too, in front of the motor, and it's small. Allows easy fit of the esc as well as a full size swervo on the left side. With my setup it all makes for better balance.
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Old 06-06-2014, 05:32 PM   #4885
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What size pinion should I run with a 5.5t motor? I'm running an RS Pro. I'm guessing a 16 or 17, but I'm not sure.
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Old 06-06-2014, 05:42 PM   #4886
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Originally Posted by ridgeback View Post
Ive been officially sold on buying a XB4, without reading 326 posts here on this XB4 thread what parts should I buy as spares/backups along with the kit or necessary upgrades? Im pretty sure its not many parts. I race at a high bite indoor clay track (1/8 scale size); do I need to buy the carbon arm inserts?
1) C'mon man, use the search button for "spares".
2) No, unless you're running carpet, you don't need the carbon arm inserts
3) Build, race, enjoy
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:22 PM   #4887
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What size pinion should I run with a 5.5t motor? I'm running an RS Pro. I'm guessing a 16 or 17, but I'm not sure.
I run 16 indoors smaller track and 17 outdoors medium size track.
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Old 06-08-2014, 12:42 PM   #4888
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Anyone else have to dremel off the battery lead retaining tab to get their rx to fit??
Yip actually dremeled mine off during the week to get my new hobbywing v2.1 esc and Rx in was also going to ask if guys have had to do that
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Old 06-08-2014, 12:48 PM   #4889
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Alright finally got my xb4 up and boosting like a wild child running the v2.1 120a hobbywing esc and yeah racing hack motor 8.5t been racing 1/8th buggy nitro for the past 3yrs so decided to give the 1/10th class a try seeing as I just love Buggys so much yesterday was my first outing with The Xb4 and electrics and all went perfect I just love it super fast tend to blip abit cause use to nitro but will get the hang of it alot smoother must say
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Old 06-08-2014, 01:41 PM   #4890
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Originally Posted by ridgeback View Post
Ive been officially sold on buying a XB4, without reading 326 posts here on this XB4 thread what parts should I buy as spares/backups along with the kit or necessary upgrades? Im pretty sure its not many parts. I race at a high bite indoor clay track (1/8 scale size); do I need to buy the carbon arm inserts?
All you really need for right away spare parts are drive pins and the removal tool. Everything else if maintained will last forever. Maybe get a spare set of Diff gaskets, can possibly get torn when rebuilding diffs. Get arms and stuff later down the road (2-3 months). Car is bullet proof. Exotek safety collars are a good investment as well. We tested carbon arm inserts in Socal on all track types, and abandoned them at all tracks. They just were not needed, and make the car to twitchy due to it being so rigid. Start with Tyler Viks Reedy Race setup, and tune from there. You will be pretty close to perfect with that setup. Keep your slipper tightened correctly. Thats pretty much all the advice I can give you.
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