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Old 05-20-2014, 10:04 AM   #4816
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I have the mugen tool. The pin remover point went inwards after changing just 4 pins. Making it more difficult now
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:11 AM   #4817
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I have the mugen tool. The pin remover point went inwards after changing just 4 pins. Making it more difficult now
Even the hudy tool pin is a wear part. They sell spares. Hope you got spares for the mugen as well.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:12 AM   #4818
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Any one think this team C diff will fit in our cars?

http://www.redrc.net/2014/05/team-c-...et/#more-81220

Xray will eventually release it I believe along with a short conversion but seems like they just launched the 14 version.
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Old 05-20-2014, 11:14 AM   #4819
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Any one think this team C diff will fit in our cars?

http://www.redrc.net/2014/05/team-c-...et/#more-81220

Xray will eventually release it I believe along with a short conversion but seems like they just launched the 14 version.
Gotta give Team C credit - they move quickly!

I can see Xray doing their first "major" revision by early 2015 to include this diff and ya, a shortie pack conversion kit. Dunno if either will make me a better driver though really.
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Old 05-20-2014, 11:18 AM   #4820
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Gotta give Team C credit - they move quickly!

I can see Xray doing their first "major" revision by early 2015 to include this diff and ya, a shortie pack conversion kit. Dunno if either will make me a better driver though really.
Hehe. For me lower weight helped a lot. My rtr is around ~1600 grams now, I used the *gasp* Maxamps soft saddles to shave 90 grams from the rear and some aluminum titanium screws with of course a softer setup in the rear. The front end tracks a lot better now, and fuel/mAH consumption is lower as well without lap times suffering (~ 1400mAH compared to 1600mAH before for 5 min heats). Also motor and speedo are lot cooler.

Was thinking a diff would help make it more efficient since no slipper all power to the ground. Was gonna do shorty but am shoddy at drilling straight holes even with a nice drill press :P
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:39 PM   #4821
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For me lower weight helped a lot. My rtr is around ~1600 grams now, I used the *gasp* Maxamps soft saddles to shave 90 grams from the rear and some aluminum titanium screws with of course a softer setup in the rear. The front end tracks a lot better now, and fuel/mAH consumption is lower as well without lap times suffering (~ 1400mAH compared to 1600mAH before for 5 min heats).
Great idea. I've run Turnigy 5000-5600mAH packs approx 260-290grams packs (in total), my cars are about 1600grams total, and I feel my car is a bit too heavy on tight smaller tracks. I wonder what you would recommend for 4WD and 2WD for a normal 5-6 minute run. I guess the 2WD could use the lightest batteries.

Unfortunately, maxamps.com seem to require $$$$ to send to my country, so I'm also interested in alternative products. The lightest I can find is http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...arehouse_.html at 190g

Last edited by coretex; 05-20-2014 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:10 PM   #4822
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Great idea. I've run Turnigy 5000-5600mAH packs approx 260-290grams packs (in total), and I feel my car is a bit too heavy on tight smaller tracks. I wonder what you would recommend for 4WD and 2WD for a normal 5-6 minute run. I guess the 2WD could use the lightest batteries.

Unfortunately, maxamps.com seem to require $$$$ to send to my country, so I'm also interested in alternative products.
This is what I bought, http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-4000-74-Saddle.htm it was not that expensive, I generally keep it around a 100 bucks for a 2s pack and this was not too off the scale. Capacity was a bit more that advertised. I have not tried charging at 20 plus amps like my regular race packs since its maxamps (the king of inflated C ratings haha).

If you are good with building packs, then I think buying single cells from hobbyking and soldering would also work since shippings too much to the euro zone.

Not sure anyone else who sells soft saddles though. Something like this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...gle_Cell_.html. Personally I am scared to do it since I have seen a lipo catch fire .
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:03 PM   #4823
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Err, I don't think eliminating the slipper without the promised aluminum bevel gear & steel pinion gear are released first!
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:20 PM   #4824
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Err, I don't think eliminating the slipper without the promised aluminum bevel gear & steel pinion gear are released first!
Haha. Yeah but for us the slippers gotta be super tight as is because of crazy California sugar tracks. Traction is like velcro pretty much can throw any tires and it still grips.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:17 AM   #4825
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Default tire foams?

So this is my first true 1/10 scale rc (I don't consider 4x4 sc to be 1/10). I have no idea what to do with the foams that come with the tyres for these cars haha, I'm pretty sure I need to cut them down some before putting them inside the tyres, but how much? do I leave the corners of them square or try to profile them? how about the closed cell foams that some of them come with or are available separate, does anybody use those and what is the difference in how they perform? I'm used to 1/8 scale where they all come with closed cell profiled foams that you don't need to do anything with.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:10 AM   #4826
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You don't cut anything off the foams. You stuff the whole thing in there and glue. Front and rear. For 2wd fronts though I used 4wd front inserts!
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:57 AM   #4827
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You don't cut anything off the foams. You stuff the whole thing in there and glue. Front and rear. For 2wd fronts though I used 4wd front inserts!
When I use open cell foams I turn them inside out and trim some off the outer edge, this way when when you put them in the tire the foam doesnt get in to the rim and bead of the tire. Makes gluing a bit easier.
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:20 AM   #4828
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3 words for ya...

JConcepts Tire Bands!!!

Seat your tires, slide the bands on and then slightly pry the bead off the wheel and apply glue using a fine tube. Easy as pie and ever so clean.
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:14 PM   #4829
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
So this is my first true 1/10 scale rc (I don't consider 4x4 sc to be 1/10). I have no idea what to do with the foams that come with the tyres for these cars haha, I'm pretty sure I need to cut them down some before putting them inside the tyres, but how much? do I leave the corners of them square or try to profile them? how about the closed cell foams that some of them come with or are available separate, does anybody use those and what is the difference in how they perform? I'm used to 1/8 scale where they all come with closed cell profiled foams that you don't need to do anything with.
I just use soft AKA closed cells and call it a day. Usually lasted through 2-3 sets of tires before needing to be changed. Open cells always fold under for me and I lose grip, especially in the front. Switch 3 years ago and never went back to an open cell in any class.
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:16 PM   #4830
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Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
3 words for ya...

JConcepts Tire Bands!!!

Seat your tires, slide the bands on and then slightly pry the bead off the wheel and apply glue using a fine tube. Easy as pie and ever so clean.
Two words for ya...

I know!!

I only use open cell when I run outside, trimming the inside of the foams just a bit allows them to fit in the bead easier.
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