R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree39Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-02-2014, 07:46 PM   #4711
Tech Adept
 
Jono Buggy Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 179
Default

Hi all would like to ask a question and have honest answers so I'm getting my first xb4 any building tips and things to look out for also what are the most common parts to break on the Buggy just so I can stock up all feed back much appreciated thanks everyone
__________________
Agama A215
Alpha / O.S Speed finally 😏😃 / Savox / Sanwa / Beta
Jono Buggy Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2014, 07:47 PM   #4712
Tech Addict
 
suzukipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 747
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

I have 5-6 sets of the Xray wheels so I'll be sticking with them until things wearout, however I was hoping someone would shed some light on the 14mm Hex widths and what the effects are going with the wider/stock/narrower hexes from front to rear.

I ended up having a stripped 2mm bolt in one of the standard hexes and now my options are to run the -.75 hubs in the front or back or wait for replacements via another online purchase. I know with my 1:8 scale ( EB-48) I went with the +2mm hubs up front and stock in the rear for better traction, I wonder if the narrow in back and stock up front would yeild similar results???

Thanks for any input,
__________________
Eric
________________________________________________________________________
Tekno, XRAY, Team Associated & Traxxas Powered by SMC.
Innovative Hobbies Raceway, Flyin-High RC Track
suzukipro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2014, 10:21 PM   #4713
Tech Elite
 
elex300's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 3,951
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
I thought about trying them too. But after running the right setup, and the right tires I don't see a need for the ball diffs anymore. Maybe on super loose and completely blown out tracks, but I don't really ever run on those.
+1 I thought the ball diff was for sure the answer to my issue but after getting my set up straightened out I dont see the need for it.
__________________
Erik Everett
EZ Customs (Rc Painting) www.facebook.com/ezcustomspainting
Jconcepts - Trinity/Revtech - Xtreme Hobbies - RCADDICTION Products
elex300 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 05:08 AM   #4714
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 889
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
I have 5-6 sets of the Xray wheels so I'll be sticking with them until things wearout, however I was hoping someone would shed some light on the 14mm Hex widths and what the effects are going with the wider/stock/narrower hexes from front to rear.

I ended up having a stripped 2mm bolt in one of the standard hexes and now my options are to run the -.75 hubs in the front or back or wait for replacements via another online purchase. I know with my 1:8 scale ( EB-48) I went with the +2mm hubs up front and stock in the rear for better traction, I wonder if the narrow in back and stock up front would yeild similar results???

Thanks for any input,
I'll start by saying I don't know. Ok, I know enough to say they of course make the buggy wider or narrower, but ultimately what does this do - ya, I dunno. I bought some -.75mm hexes when I was trying to copy Martin Bayer's set ups but switched to another set up and never removed them from their package - I doubt I will ever use them since now I am running Tyler Vik's OCRC set up. Plus, the new V2 front wheels are +1mm wider now as well. I guess if you had V1 front wheels, you could use the -.75mm on the rear to make it the same as running the newer V2 fronts.

Of course, matching this up with the eccentric bushings outside or inside mounting positions, man, sometimes there are too many adjustments and my head hurts thinking about it all and I spend more time over thinking a set up rather than driving.

It's been a long winter and a terrible spring for us up here, I've been looking at my buggies sit since October and now I just wanna race!
__________________
Daragh Slowey
22-4 2.0/R10/Scorpion5.5/S6040/Nosram shorty
B5R/R10/LRP8.5/1258TGBlk/Nosram shorty
EB48SL/RX8/TekinT8i/Hitec7599/SMC4500(4S)
Grasshopper/Tekin FX/Twister 27T/FutabaS9551/Speed power
HeavyD99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 06:05 AM   #4715
Tech Elite
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Anaheim Ca.
Posts: 3,888
Trader Rating: 137 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
I have 5-6 sets of the Xray wheels so I'll be sticking with them until things wearout, however I was hoping someone would shed some light on the 14mm Hex widths and what the effects are going with the wider/stock/narrower hexes from front to rear.

I ended up having a stripped 2mm bolt in one of the standard hexes and now my options are to run the -.75 hubs in the front or back or wait for replacements via another online purchase. I know with my 1:8 scale ( EB-48) I went with the +2mm hubs up front and stock in the rear for better traction, I wonder if the narrow in back and stock up front would yeild similar results???

Thanks for any input,
Found this on one of the import tuner sites. While maybe not extreme since we are not talking about changing the offset as much as they are. The science seems sound enough to apply here as we'll:

"Now, as far as the track width of a car, Most of the same effects are present. Too narrow, and the car will be very easy to roll on a corner. Too wide, and the car will cause more drag, and be sluggish on the straightaways and can easily oversteer if not being cautious with the steering angle."
__________________
TLR 22T 3.0, TLR 22-4 2.0 , TLR 22 4.0 X2, 22SCT 3.0, Tekno SCT 4X4, Tekno EB48.4, Hobbywing, Futaba, LRH Hobbies, Spektrum Servos, iCharger.
jpcopeland1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 06:17 AM   #4716
Tech Elite
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Anaheim Ca.
Posts: 3,888
Trader Rating: 137 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jono Buggy Dude View Post
Hi all would like to ask a question and have honest answers so I'm getting my first xb4 any building tips and things to look out for also what are the most common parts to break on the Buggy just so I can stock up all feed back much appreciated thanks everyone
Build it per the manual, minus initial slipper setting. Nothing really needs to be done to it. I would suggest to set the slipper looser then the manual. Leave it on the loose side 5-6 get of slip (the pads are super tough and can take it) then adjust. Too tight and your running the risk of stripping gears. The manual has it set wrong. Mine was wrong in the beginning, ended up have to loosen it by 1mm from the box setup. Make sure you don't skip the part about lubing up the drive shafts, it is a very important step.
__________________
TLR 22T 3.0, TLR 22-4 2.0 , TLR 22 4.0 X2, 22SCT 3.0, Tekno SCT 4X4, Tekno EB48.4, Hobbywing, Futaba, LRH Hobbies, Spektrum Servos, iCharger.
jpcopeland1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 08:25 AM   #4717
Tech Addict
 
suzukipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 747
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Found this on one of the import tuner sites. While maybe not extreme since we are not talking about changing the offset as much as they are. The science seems sound enough to apply here as we'll:

"Now, as far as the track width of a car, Most of the same effects are present. Too narrow, and the car will be very easy to roll on a corner. Too wide, and the car will cause more drag, and be sluggish on the straightaways and can easily oversteer if not being cautious with the steering angle."
Well I placed the -.75 offsets on the rear and they cause the Xray wheels to rub on the outer hub so I moved them back up front and they still rub. I will need to add some shims outside the hex which limits their effectiveness as -hubs. I just placed an order for the standard and +.75 hexes and will see how that works.
On a side note ,I installed the Durango dust covers on all 6 CV joints and they really seem to hold the grease in/dirt out, I'll report back on their effectiveness after a few more runs though.
__________________
Eric
________________________________________________________________________
Tekno, XRAY, Team Associated & Traxxas Powered by SMC.
Innovative Hobbies Raceway, Flyin-High RC Track
suzukipro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 08:29 AM   #4718
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 889
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

I've been running the boots since day 1 and they are still in good shape and the CVD joints are dirt free and well lubricated. Exotek caps and the dust boots are the ticket!
__________________
Daragh Slowey
22-4 2.0/R10/Scorpion5.5/S6040/Nosram shorty
B5R/R10/LRP8.5/1258TGBlk/Nosram shorty
EB48SL/RX8/TekinT8i/Hitec7599/SMC4500(4S)
Grasshopper/Tekin FX/Twister 27T/FutabaS9551/Speed power
HeavyD99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 08:21 PM   #4719
Tech Addict
 
suzukipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 747
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

I'm a bit confused why many seem to remove the rear plastic spacer/chassis tray under the rear diff and then go with the +2mm (higher) toe plates? I had to file the radius on the stock RR toe plate to get the screw holes to line up with the diff holes, I also filed off the outside drop downs on each side to prevent them from digging in when it bottoms out on landings. Anyhow I ran the .5 inserts on the lower outside and the rear end was much more planted than it was a week ago. I ran the Vic set up the best I could, but had a few issues prevent me from pulling it off entirely.

Now I have to work on gearing as it seems under geared, the motor was getting hot 180F &SC was in the 120F range. I'll need to work on suspension a bit too as I didn't realize how rough my indoor track is until driving a 1:10 buggy on it (broke first A Arm today), overall it was a nice improvement for it's 2nd time out. I also added the brass 20 gram triangles to the back and it did help settle the car down in the rough stuff.

Happy I bought a XB4
__________________
Eric
________________________________________________________________________
Tekno, XRAY, Team Associated & Traxxas Powered by SMC.
Innovative Hobbies Raceway, Flyin-High RC Track
suzukipro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 10:52 PM   #4720
Tech Elite
 
joeymdz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oreogan
Posts: 2,993
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to joeymdz
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
I'm a bit confused why many seem to remove the rear plastic spacer/chassis tray under the rear diff and then go with the +2mm (higher) toe plates? I had to file the radius on the stock RR toe plate to get the screw holes to line up with the diff holes, I also filed off the outside drop downs on each side to prevent them from digging in when it bottoms out on landings. Anyhow I ran the .5 inserts on the lower outside and the rear end was much more planted than it was a week ago. I ran the Vic set up the best I could, but had a few issues prevent me from pulling it off entirely.

Now I have to work on gearing as it seems under geared, the motor was getting hot 180F &SC was in the 120F range. I'll need to work on suspension a bit too as I didn't realize how rough my indoor track is until driving a 1:10 buggy on it (broke first A Arm today), overall it was a nice improvement for it's 2nd time out. I also added the brass 20 gram triangles to the back and it did help settle the car down in the rough stuff.

Happy I bought a XB4
Going down on diff fluid will help out with traction. Try 5/3
__________________
RC Plus*McKune Designs*NW Hobbies*Premier RC Raceways*Daves Tracks
joeymdz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2014, 01:33 AM   #4721
Tech Regular
 
V6Jim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Dumfries, Scotland.
Posts: 338
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Found this on one of the import tuner sites. While maybe not extreme since we are not talking about changing the offset as much as they are. The science seems sound enough to apply here as we'll:

"Now, as far as the track width of a car, Most of the same effects are present. Too narrow, and the car will be very easy to roll on a corner. Too wide, and the car will cause more drag, and be sluggish on the straightaways and can easily oversteer if not being cautious with the steering angle."
I think the increase in drag theory is more or less nonsense. But it is true that the narrower the car is the more grip it will induce. Use track width to adjust balance.
__________________
Dumfries, Scotland.
Returned to racing after 20 years off. (Racing Karts and Motocross!)
Scottish 1/10th Off-Road Champion 1985/86/87.

Now driving PR Racing UK PRS1 V2, V3FM, V3MM & PR SB401LW
V6Jim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2014, 05:41 AM   #4722
Tech Adept
 
Jono Buggy Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 179
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Build it per the manual, minus initial slipper setting. Nothing really needs to be done to it. I would suggest to set the slipper looser then the manual. Leave it on the loose side 5-6 get of slip (the pads are super tough and can take it) then adjust. Too tight and your running the risk of stripping gears. The manual has it set wrong. Mine was wrong in the beginning, ended up have to loosen it by 1mm from the box setup. Make sure you don't skip the part about lubing up the drive shafts, it is a very important step.
Awesome thanks for the feed back durability wise of things any parts to stock up on or does it take quite a beating?
__________________
Agama A215
Alpha / O.S Speed finally 😏😃 / Savox / Sanwa / Beta
Jono Buggy Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2014, 07:11 AM   #4723
Tech Addict
 
suzukipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 747
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jono Buggy Dude View Post
Awesome thanks for the feed back durability wise of things any parts to stock up on or does it take quite a beating?
From my limited experience I'd start with the following
-Front & Rear A-arms
-shock shafts
-Hinge pins
-2x10mm hex pins
-Turnbuckles
-rod ends
-Rear Wings / mounts

Nice to have:
-wheel and diff bearings are good to always have on hand as well
-Shock and differential O-rings
__________________
Eric
________________________________________________________________________
Tekno, XRAY, Team Associated & Traxxas Powered by SMC.
Innovative Hobbies Raceway, Flyin-High RC Track
suzukipro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2014, 11:39 AM   #4724
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,729
Trader Rating: 120 (99%+)
Default

Is anyone experiencing broken pins that hold the driveshaft to the axel (the pin that goes through the barrel) I broke a pin and lost the barrel last week, so I ordered a new barrel and a package of pins. I replaced the pins on all 4 corners and broke ANOTHER one yesterday. I just got this car and I love it... But this problem is becoming frustrating very quickly. Any thoughts?
skoalisbad4me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2014, 12:19 PM   #4725
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 78
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skoalisbad4me View Post
Is anyone experiencing broken pins that hold the driveshaft to the axel (the pin that goes through the barrel) I broke a pin and lost the barrel last week, so I ordered a new barrel and a package of pins. I replaced the pins on all 4 corners and broke ANOTHER one yesterday. I just got this car and I love it... But this problem is becoming frustrating very quickly. Any thoughts?
sounds like you may have you slipper very tight?
nicmo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
EP buggies thread sim600 Malaysian R/C Racers 3586 03-30-2016 11:53 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
Pintopint
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:18 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net