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Old 04-28-2014, 10:17 AM   #4681
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what are you running 7/5?[/QUOTE]

Yes 7/5.

Removing the front sway bar smooths the steering out and makes it easier to push the car hard into turns. It works really well on super high bite sugared tracks where the steering can feel too aggressive.
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Old 04-28-2014, 10:46 AM   #4682
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what are you running 7/5?
Yes 7/5.

Removing the front sway bar smooths the steering out and makes it easier to push the car hard into turns. It works really well on super high bite sugared tracks where the steering can feel too aggressive.[/QUOTE]


We don't do sugar here in Oregon... maybe due to all the hippies? But my car is so planted I need more rotation. I was going to mess with the diffs but didn't want to adjust anything for the main. My crutch is using 5/3 and finding the right tire choice. I'm going to try 7/5 and 10/5 this week.

Using the Bayer setup I never had an issue with rotation but wanted to try something new. I really like Vik's setup and I'm not using a front sway.

We have some high bite indoor clay tracks up here in Oregon so traction isn't an issue (traction rolling, wheels popping, and doing wheelies)
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:10 AM   #4683
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Stiffer front springs 3 dot or Losi black.
Softer rear springs 1 dot or something equivalent in rate.
Remove rear spacer under diff case.
No front sway bar and 1.4mm rear or another option is run smaller rear sway bar 1.0mm and stiffer front sway bar 1.4mm. I've had good results either way. I run a 5.5 turn on med bite clay and the car has plenty of rear grip. Almost too much with the Vik setup. Had to go to 7k front diff fluid yesterday to get more off power steering.
Thanks,
I ran with the 3dot springs up front with AE 35wt oil Avid pistons and 1 dot rear springs with AE30 wt oil Avid pistons. I'm unsure what diff fluids are currently (XB4 14 bought used)but will try the 7/5 next time, the rear plastic plate has been removed with the +2mm rear toe plate with the 1.0 inserts in top out side corners. I'm not sure what sway bars are, but have to assume they are stock, I'll try removing the front. The tires I ran were the Sweep tendroids in supersoft compound and worked well except for my loose rear on power.

Appreciate all the help
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:05 PM   #4684
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I ran with the 3dot springs up front with AE 35wt oil Avid pistons and 1 dot rear springs with AE30 wt oil Avid pistons. I'm unsure what diff fluids are currently (XB4 14 bought used)but will try the 7/5 next time, the rear plastic plate has been removed with the +2mm rear toe plate with the 1.0 inserts in top out side corners. I'm not sure what sway bars are, but have to assume they are stock, I'll try removing the front. The tires I ran were the Sweep tendroids in supersoft compound and worked well except for my loose rear on power.

Appreciate all the help
Im running losi 40F and 27.5R with 3 dot and 1 dot. no sway in front and 1.4 in the rear. The car is really planted

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/xray/se...CRC2014012426/
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Old 04-28-2014, 03:08 PM   #4685
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I ran with the 3dot springs up front with AE 35wt oil Avid pistons and 1 dot rear springs with AE30 wt oil Avid pistons. I'm unsure what diff fluids are currently (XB4 14 bought used)but will try the 7/5 next time, the rear plastic plate has been removed with the +2mm rear toe plate with the 1.0 inserts in top out side corners. I'm not sure what sway bars are, but have to assume they are stock, I'll try removing the front. The tires I ran were the Sweep tendroids in supersoft compound and worked well except for my loose rear on power.

Appreciate all the help
If you're having trouble with rear grip, I'd start with 10/5 in the diffs, and lower the rear inserts. The only time I tried 7/5, I thought the car was too loose exiting. The 10 in the front diff slows down the outside front tire, and gives the car much more forward bite to finish the corner.
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Old 04-28-2014, 03:45 PM   #4686
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If you're having trouble with rear grip, I'd start with 10/5 in the diffs, and lower the rear inserts. The only time I tried 7/5, I thought the car was too loose exiting. The 10 in the front diff slows down the outside front tire, and gives the car much more forward bite to finish the corner.
If I'm not mistaken the +2mm RR toe plate raises the inserts 2mm? I held the stock toe plate in a quick comparison and to come to this conclusion. If that is correct I might be better off putting the stock toe plates back on and make insert changes from there. I'll also go 10/5 in the diffs as you suggested and I can't state this enough, I really appreciate all the help I'm getting here .

Thanks,
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:17 PM   #4687
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Yeah, if you're running the same bushings, then the +2 holders will raise the pins by 2mm. It depends if you're running the plate under the rear end or not. The standard suspension holders with the plate, is the same hinge pin height as no plate under the rear end with the +2mm suspension holders.
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:28 PM   #4688
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Yeah, if you're running the same bushings, then the +2 holders will raise the pins by 2mm. It depends if you're running the plate under the rear end or not. The standard suspension holders with the plate, is the same hinge pin height as no plate under the rear end with the +2mm suspension holders.
I am going to try your 2014 Reedy Race set up and will make adjustments from there if needed (I'm guessing my driving skills might not be on par )
I have my slipper set at 6.7mm right now and wondered if going outside of the 6.3mm range in the manual is common or are there issues with the slipper being too loose as I only see warnings about gioing too tight...

Awesome thread and buggy; can't say it enough, Thanks for the great support!
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:35 PM   #4689
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I've never checked the measurement. Check it on the bench before you go out and run; hold both rear tires and punch it, and the slipper should slip plenty, and the front tires should lift off the ground just a bit.
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:32 AM   #4690
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Default Malin@2013/14 EOS Rd. 4 Wels, Austria 4WD Buggy C-final Leg 3

8 year old Malin running her Xray XB4 4WD in the C-final Leg 3 at the 2013/14 Euro Offroad Series Rd. 4 in Wels, Austria.

Malin had qualified as #9 for this C-final Leg 3 after 4 qualifying rounds.

She started out as #9 on the grid and made a decent start and first lap bringing her up to a 6th position. She then got passed on the 2nd lap and fell back to a 7th. She then put her head down and started the charge. Made her way up to the back wheel of the 2nd position driver and started applying the pressure. Made several attempts passing him and finally he made a mistake allowing her to pass and take the 2nd position :-)

There were 78 drivers in total (A through H finals).

She drives the white/pink/light blue Xray XB4.

Commentary by Scotty Ernst and Uwe Reinhard.

If you are watching this from an iPhone or iPad press the banner on top of the video.
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ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Her setup:
Xray XB4 '14 4WD
Orca Vritra VXX speed controller
Orca TX 6.5T brushless motor
Orca Infinite Ultra 90C | 6000mAh | 7.4V saddle pack battery
Hitec HS-7940TH servo
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Pro-Line Pin Point front & rear

Bent
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:16 AM   #4691
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Default 300 shock oil = 30 wt?

Hey guys,

I'm in the midst of building my XB4. The shock oil that came with it are 450 and 300 "cSt". CST = centistroke viscosity. Is it safe to assume that the 450 cSt = 45 weight shock oil that we can buy easily in the US and the 300 cSt = 30 weight? Or am I going to have to carry both 300 cSt and 30 weight and 400 and 45 weight?

Similarly, the diff oil was 10k and 5k cSt. Same as 1000 wt and 500 wt?
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:35 AM   #4692
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Hey guys,

I'm in the midst of building my XB4. The shock oil that came with it are 450 and 300 "cSt". CST = centistroke viscosity. Is it safe to assume that the 450 cSt = 45 weight shock oil that we can buy easily in the US and the 300 cSt = 30 weight? Or am I going to have to carry both 300 cSt and 30 weight and 400 and 45 weight?

Similarly, the diff oil was 10k and 5k cSt. Same as 1000 wt and 500 wt?
Conversion info here for shock oil.

http://www.rcrcr.com/index.php?optio...eral&Itemid=46

No conversion needed for diff fluids. 10/5k in the kit is same as 10k/5k you can buy at your local hobby shop.
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:47 AM   #4693
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Conversion info here for shock oil.

http://www.rcrcr.com/index.php?optio...eral&Itemid=46

No conversion needed for diff fluids. 10/5k in the kit is same as 10k/5k you can buy at your local hobby shop.
THANKS for this! Although a little depressing in that it looks like I WILL need to carry both sets since they are off from manufacturer to manufacturer... that sucks!
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:00 AM   #4694
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Hey guys,

I'm in the midst of building my XB4. The shock oil that came with it are 450 and 300 "cSt". CST = centistroke viscosity. Is it safe to assume that the 450 cSt = 45 weight shock oil that we can buy easily in the US and the 300 cSt = 30 weight? Or am I going to have to carry both 300 cSt and 30 weight and 400 and 45 weight?

Similarly, the diff oil was 10k and 5k cSt. Same as 1000 wt and 500 wt?
That's a good list provided above to rcrc, but for quick reference, AE oils have their actual cst on the bottle as well. Your nomenclature makes sense, I wish it was that way too, but no manufacturer who use "wt" seems to follow it. I have thus picked up Core RC oils in 300, 350, 400, 450 & 500cst to copy Martin Bayer's and most Euro set ups and AE oils from 27.5wt thru to 45wt in 2.5wt increases to copy most everyone else.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:15 AM   #4695
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If you're having trouble with rear grip, I'd start with 10/5 in the diffs, and lower the rear inserts. The only time I tried 7/5, I thought the car was too loose exiting. The 10 in the front diff slows down the outside front tire, and gives the car much more forward bite to finish the corner.
Running your reedy setup here in SoCal and the car is absolutely planted.
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