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Old 03-18-2014, 03:05 PM   #4381
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This isn't always an option. We have one of the absolute largest hobby shops int he nation and the owner decided to stock RTR parts and such and no longer stocks parts for the kit cars. No shock or tranny oils, no arms, race tires, nothing. Having 2excellent tracks near by meant they had a ton of foot traffic for spares as well as new kits all the time, but the owner decided that supporting Traxxas and the like was the way to go. Even still, to have immediate parts support you had to run AE or TLR because all other brand parts and kits had to be special ordered which meant readily available parts for my 4.2 but my 410, 1-2 weeks if the distributer got around to sending out the order in a timely fashion. It took nearly 3 weeks to get a Kuhler body for my 410.

LHS need to do their part as well. It's not fair to put it all on us.
Racers will always go for the cheaper price and in most cases today, that is online. I am not surprised hobby shops are shifting inventory to the customers who buy there.
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Old 03-18-2014, 04:27 PM   #4382
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Full size swervo moved back for better balance, not forward. The pt is there too. A telemetry rx also fits in the same spot. Just takes a little extra time. The soldering is more important. Just ribbin ya a bit too. Your car looks excellent overall.
how close is your battery wire to the spur gear? i run mine along the chassis so it cant touch the gear no matter what.
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Old 03-18-2014, 04:58 PM   #4383
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I drilled 2 small holes on the left and right side of the chassis and slid the battery wires through them. 1) it holds the battery in place and 2) makes it look clean and 3) you will never get your positive and negative wires mixed up (unless you borrow a different battery pack)
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Xray XB4 thread-xb4wd1.jpg   Xray XB4 thread-xb4wd2.jpg  
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Old 03-18-2014, 05:29 PM   #4384
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how close is your battery wire to the spur gear? i run mine along the chassis so it cant touch the gear no matter what.
Its been like that since day one, barely rubs. I keep waiting for it to catch and make me an idiot.
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Old 03-18-2014, 05:46 PM   #4385
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I drilled 2 small holes on the left and right side of the chassis and slid the battery wires through them. 1) it holds the battery in place and 2) makes it look clean and 3) you will never get your positive and negative wires mixed up (unless you borrow a different battery pack)
So two stories to make your wiring through those chassis holes seem as questionable as some of the stuff I do. In my real truck I had a 2nd battery in back for rc charging, I had run a cable through a grommet and a few years later.... I awoke to fire trucks the cable cut through the grommet and shorted. At a 12th scale race I watched my one and only GEEZ THAT GUYS CAR IS ON FIRE..... his batteries had shorted through the carbon chassis.
Not that it would ever happen to you. The whole job is pretty slick.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:13 PM   #4386
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I too liked the idea of running on the sides but i have some practice packs (nano's) pos neg are on the other side, so i should of left more length to flip the ports to the rear of the car, then just loop the wires back for my race packs
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Old 03-19-2014, 04:43 PM   #4387
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8 year old Malin practicing and working on a setup for her XB4 4WD for carpet and Swedish Edition slicks at the track in Larvik, Norway with fellow Xray drivers Ronny and Danny (and a couple of SWorkz' as well)

Went really well and was able to get just a few tenths from the current track record

Part 1:
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Part 2:
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.



Bent
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:23 PM   #4388
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Exotek hexes fit very nice. I was running the traxxas hexes and B4 Mono wheels. I gained 6mm of width in the rear with the Exotek hexes and the same wheels.


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Old 03-19-2014, 07:33 PM   #4389
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Is anyone using weight in the rear. If so could you post a pic or what are you using and where.
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:50 PM   #4390
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Is anyone using weight in the rear. If so could you post a pic or what are you using and where.
I have 1ea. 5 gram weight in each of the rear triangles where the factory balast weight is supposed to go.
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:17 PM   #4391
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Little bling ?:@) just did my diffs so i didnt put the center drive shaft sleeves on yet, caps fit great,
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:29 PM   #4392
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Is anyone using weight in the rear. If so could you post a pic or what are you using and where.
I have a 10g piece (3Racing's "carbon" look lead weights) shoe goo'd to the inside of each saddle pack. 20g total. They are fairly thin, and yes they come really close to rubbing the rear center drive shaft - but they don't. I notice when I lift throttle over a major jump my buggy's nose goes sky high, but maintaining a constant throttle over it she flies nice & flat - no drama.
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:47 PM   #4393
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Originally Posted by elex300 View Post
Exotek hexes fit very nice. I was running the traxxas hexes and B4 Mono wheels. I gained 6mm of width in the rear with the Exotek hexes and the same wheels.


How does that track width compare to the stock hexes?
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:58 PM   #4394
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I run a "practice" wing most of the time. Looks like a dogpile. Lexan backing glued on, frankenwing. But it takes a hit and keeps on going. When I need to impress people on the starting line with a sweet new wing I stick one on. Jconcepts #0134 6.5 hi-clearance
While the JC wings are excellent, I tried the Upgrade RC Vortex when they were released and it's the only wing for me moving forward. The Sweep wing is almost as thick but the wicker angle is too severe and takes a bit of modding to get it right so your buggy has loads of dowforce without wanting to flip over.
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Old 03-19-2014, 11:22 PM   #4395
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Thinking like that kills the industry and your local hobby shops/race tracks. Buy locally

That's my .2 cents.
Find me a local track or hell hobby shop that sells X-ray parts and I will buy from them. And don't say Amain hobbies. The worst in the business.
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