StockRacer

iTrader: (51)

Has anyone used the JC hexes made for the B44, if so did it make the buggy too wide or too narrow?

ronP617

check this link out:

http://images.amainhobbies.com/image...Table_v1_0.pdf

Recomended oil front and rear work great. 2+2 1.5front and 1.6 rear..

these pistons are a must, the stock pistons have blow back and dont seem to fit plush

Afun

iTrader: (19)

Since xray comes out with a new buggy every year, what happens to the parts for the previous years? Do they go away quickly? On Amain I only see parts for the 2013. What happened to the 2012,2011...etc

kyok2

iTrader: (32)

13 was the first xb4.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Don't bother too much with keeping up to date with Xray kits. Generally, with touring cars, nitro buggy, this xb4, they do a minor update every year, and a major release (new towers, shocks etc), every other year. But the older cars still competitive (well except TC, you know how that is). Most parts between two major releases of course fit so you can keep your chassis up to date if you want to for cheap.

Their lesser popular kits like 1/10 nitro, ebuggy and pan cars get less love and are on a more regular release cycle (like moog, kyosho etc).

NitroOB4You

iTrader: (36)

Any chance you could either post up or PM me that chart info? Thx

elex300

iTrader: (110)

Here is one.

elex300

iTrader: (110)

I just picked up a lightly used 2013 V2. I just wanted to confirm that the 2wd body is a direct fit for the 4wd?

ronP617

I run the dmx body on both my xb4's, perfect fit and feels more stable IMO

celt

iTrader: (5)

This buggy is both stunningly good and durable.

A rare combination in this class. We used to bet on how many of the wheelers would finish a heat before DNF'ing. I rarely see one of these break.

ericschlaifer

iTrader: (4)

I had the same problem coming off of the '13 and onto a '14. I have both cars still and could duplicate that problem with "identical" setups between the two cars. I struggled with this for two months before I had a good fix. What eventually ended up calming the car down was going to 3.5 toe and adding 1 degree of pro squat. The push was too much at first for me so I changed the inserts to make the rear a little wider. I also pulled the shim from under the gearbox and used the standard hangers dremeled down.

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

HOw did you paint that? on the outside? what paint?
Thanks it looks orsm

Losi57

Do you guys know where I could find the aluminum cross pins inside the diff. I got a couple sets of metal gears and wasn't sure if I should run metal gears on plastic cross pins. I know it was mentioned earlier in this forum I just can't find the post .

ronP617

amainhobbies has them.. I run the metal nt1 gears with the plastic cross pin and i havent had any problems

V6Jim

To do the pro squat did you lift the rear of the hinge pin or drop the front? I assume you increased rear toe by going out on the rear hinge point?

I have already removed the rear plate.

Thanks!

Jimmy