R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree39Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-23-2013, 10:13 AM   #3646
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 1,805
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjk1210 View Post
until recently I was running the car the same way. I was also on tacky clay. Now that the cold weather has come into Chicago the track is getting drier and drier. I took the composite piece off the rear of the chassis and dropped the gearbox down. wow. quite a difference in the amount of power I can put down through the middle and exit of a corner.
Can you share your setup?
__________________
Thanks to my sponsors:
My Credit Card
Speedychris22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2013, 10:21 AM   #3647
Tech Elite
 
mjk1210's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,539
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
That's a big indoor. It almost looks like a Rebar, holeshot, impact, or even a green barcode tire.

I would play with the EPA settings and turn down the initial punch. Also run no to low drag brake. And with a 6.5 you really don't need any Turbo or boost (my opinion).

I have the same amount of rip as the 6.5's

I'm geared 23/84 with a 7.5 Orion vst. And I have my curve turned down
finally watched that video and if you think that's a big indoor, well, don't ever watch a video from my home track. haha. more than the size of the track though, it looks like there are no jumps or straight shoots that would require more than a 13.5 on that track to be fast. maybe a 10.5 if you wanted to pull full trigger for just a moment. any more power than that and I can see how a car could get loose. looks bumpy too. so I'd suggest the lower end on shock oils, 35wt, 27.5 wt. maybe even lower if it gets cold in there. run ride height a tad on the higher side as well, 21 ish.
__________________
Speed Passion USA - speedpassion.net
Leisure Hours Hobbies & Raceway - leisurehoursraceway.com
"Watch the quad. Watch the quad! ...SHA-BAM!"
mjk1210 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2013, 10:38 AM   #3648
Tech Elite
 
mjk1210's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,539
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Can you share your setup?
sure, I've been meaning to post one on the xray site but just can't seem to get it done.

I'm very close to the stock clay setup. in the Midwest I am usually on med to high bite indoor dirt tracks. low to med bite outdoor in the summer.

here are some of the highlights of my setup along with some guidelines for the things I typically change. besides tires of course.


I moved my hinge pins to the Martin Bayer settings and the car got more stable the wider I got. and like I mentioned before, I cut off the rear composite piece of the chassis and dropped the gearbox down. I cut slots in the forward screw holes and left the rear 4 holes alone so I can slide it in under the gear box if needed by leaving the front two screws just a little loosened.

shocks are 35wt, 27.5 wt, 3 hole 1.3 pistons (I tried 1.6 and 1.7 and didn't like them)
stock shock positions. for a lot of bigger sweeping turns or a very loose
track I will lower the upper position in the rear one hole.

stock springs -sometimes progressive front - again for more sweeping turns or looser track to tame down the front end in mid corner and exit.

bigger bushing underneath the caster block. 9 deg caster blocks
rear hole on the steering rack unless I am on very tight track with tight 180's.

I am running 5k front and 3k rear almost exclusively now. if I get on a very high bite track again I might go back to 7k and 5k.

typically I run 1deg of camber but may adjust each end according to the grip I feel.

I vary ride height to track conditions a bit. Very hooked up and flat dirt I will run around 18 or 19, the looser or bumpier it gets the higher I will go. never above 21 or so though. and I usually run the rear about .5 to 1mm lower. after a hot lap I may have someone adjust one end or the other .5 to 1 turn if my guess on the track changes were wrong. on carpet I dropped it down to 15 and made a few other changes too but that's a whole other setup.


something else important I noted recently: the weight of the battery. I have some that are 275 grams and others that are closer to 230 (very light for a decent saddle pack). the lighter pack was definitely much better as the track got looser. the heavy pack made the rear end swing around corners much easier but also made it step out a bit around some corners I wasn't looking for it to. the lighter pack kept the rear end tracking behind the front end much better on the real loose tracks. something to experiment with anyway.

hope this helps.
__________________
Speed Passion USA - speedpassion.net
Leisure Hours Hobbies & Raceway - leisurehoursraceway.com
"Watch the quad. Watch the quad! ...SHA-BAM!"
mjk1210 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2013, 10:47 AM   #3649
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 1,805
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjk1210 View Post
sure, I've been meaning to post one on the xray site but just can't seem to get it done.

I'm very close to the stock clay setup. in the Midwest I am usually on med to high bite indoor dirt tracks. low to med bite outdoor in the summer.

here are some of the highlights of my setup along with some guidelines for the things I typically change. besides tires of course.


I moved my hinge pins to the Martin Bayer settings and the car got more stable the wider I got. and like I mentioned before, I cut off the rear composite piece of the chassis and dropped the gearbox down. I cut slots in the forward screw holes and left the rear 4 holes alone so I can slide it in under the gear box if needed by leaving the front two screws just a little loosened.

shocks are 35wt, 27.5 wt, 3 hole 1.3 pistons (I tried 1.6 and 1.7 and didn't like them)
stock shock positions. for a lot of bigger sweeping turns or a very loose
track I will lower the upper position in the rear one hole.

stock springs -sometimes progressive front - again for more sweeping turns or looser track to tame down the front end in mid corner and exit.

bigger bushing underneath the caster block. 9 deg caster blocks
rear hole on the steering rack unless I am on very tight track with tight 180's.

I am running 5k front and 3k rear almost exclusively now. if I get on a very high bite track again I might go back to 7k and 5k.

typically I run 1deg of camber but may adjust each end according to the grip I feel.

I vary ride height to track conditions a bit. Very hooked up and flat dirt I will run around 18 or 19, the looser or bumpier it gets the higher I will go. never above 21 or so though. and I usually run the rear about .5 to 1mm lower. after a hot lap I may have someone adjust one end or the other .5 to 1 turn if my guess on the track changes were wrong. on carpet I dropped it down to 15 and made a few other changes too but that's a whole other setup.
Right now Im running the 2 Dot spring in the front and 1 dot in the rear. When should I consider switching over to the progressive springs?
__________________
Thanks to my sponsors:
My Credit Card
Speedychris22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2013, 10:58 AM   #3650
Tech Elite
 
mjk1210's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,539
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Right now Im running the 2 Dot spring in the front and 1 dot in the rear. When should I consider switching over to the progressive springs?
well, that's really a tough question to answer because it can be so subjective with driving style and track conditions and what you feel comfortable with. I know for me, if I run the same spring front and rear I have to be really on that day and stay very aggressive to keep the car moving the way I want. with the progressive spring in front (a little bit stiffer feeling than stock) I can relax a little and still turn the same lap times in most cases when I hit my marks.
Take an hour or so on a practice day and bring a wrench and your springs to the side of the track, turn a few laps, change one pair, turn a few more, go back, then change others, etc etc. in 1 or 2 packs and less than an hour you will feel what all the combinations will do in your hands. Then when you are racing and feel you need a change you have an idea of which way to go. I personally wouldn't use the hard spring unless I changed to heavier oils and were running on very high bite or carpet. soft and progressive for me on dirt. but again, you have to feel it out a bit for yourself.
__________________
Speed Passion USA - speedpassion.net
Leisure Hours Hobbies & Raceway - leisurehoursraceway.com
"Watch the quad. Watch the quad! ...SHA-BAM!"
mjk1210 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2013, 11:06 AM   #3651
Tech Elite
 
joeymdz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oreogan
Posts: 2,993
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to joeymdz
Default

yeah... those are some BIG tracks... lol

good idea on the rear composite piece cutting away for the slots
__________________
RC Plus*McKune Designs*NW Hobbies*Premier RC Raceways*Daves Tracks
joeymdz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2013, 11:20 AM   #3652
Tech Elite
 
mjk1210's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,539
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
yeah... those are some BIG tracks... lol

good idea on the rear composite piece cutting away for the slots
thanks. I wanted to have a way to put it back quickly without having to completely loosen the rear end. it worked well when I did a "test replacement". slid right in around the forward 2 screws.
__________________
Speed Passion USA - speedpassion.net
Leisure Hours Hobbies & Raceway - leisurehoursraceway.com
"Watch the quad. Watch the quad! ...SHA-BAM!"
mjk1210 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2013, 11:53 AM   #3653
Tech Elite
 
joeymdz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oreogan
Posts: 2,993
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to joeymdz
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjk1210 View Post
thanks. I wanted to have a way to put it back quickly without having to completely loosen the rear end. it worked well when I did a "test replacement". slid right in around the forward 2 screws.
no that's perfect (sounds like an onroad mod ) I haven't gotten around cutting mine yet.. Im still waiting on the new suspension holders. our indoor tracks are pretty hooked up with tire squeals so no need for it yet
__________________
RC Plus*McKune Designs*NW Hobbies*Premier RC Raceways*Daves Tracks
joeymdz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2013, 12:14 PM   #3654
Tech Elite
 
RED-LINE M03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: >>> USA <<<
Posts: 4,102
Trader Rating: 127 (100%+)
Default

Anybody need some wheels and tires I have more than I'll ever need for Quite sometime.

Send me a pm and a email and I'll send you a great dirt cheap price and some pictures.


Have a Merry Christmas
__________________
A battery pack a day keeps the stress away

🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻💪😃👍🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻
RED-LINE M03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2013, 07:40 AM   #3655
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: chester ny
Posts: 660
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjk1210 View Post
finally watched that video and if you think that's a big indoor, well, don't ever watch a video from my home track. haha. more than the size of the track though, it looks like there are no jumps or straight shoots that would require more than a 13.5 on that track to be fast. maybe a 10.5 if you wanted to pull full trigger for just a moment. any more power than that and I can see how a car could get loose. looks bumpy too. so I'd suggest the lower end on shock oils, 35wt, 27.5 wt. maybe even lower if it gets cold in there. run ride height a tad on the higher side as well, 21 ish.
yes the 10.5 in mine was perfect for me.very controlable easy to drive. my thought is we have 2 tracks close to us and they are both so different. i had the 10.5 still in from the other track (vid below) but i found it still good on the bigger track. my question is without redoing the whole car what is good to change between tracks? the small track is very smooth,very tight, with med traction and some dust at times , heated.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=F6EC2rnkwrk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=-g8VWKzOYDw

Last edited by auto2; 12-24-2013 at 09:51 AM.
auto2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2013, 08:49 AM   #3656
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjk1210 View Post
finally watched that video and if you think that's a big indoor, well, don't ever watch a video from my home track. haha. more than the size of the track though, it looks like there are no jumps or straight shoots that would require more than a 13.5 on that track to be fast. maybe a 10.5 if you wanted to pull full trigger for just a moment. any more power than that and I can see how a car could get loose. looks bumpy too. so I'd suggest the lower end on shock oils, 35wt, 27.5 wt. maybe even lower if it gets cold in there. run ride height a tad on the higher side as well, 21 ish.
hi , ive only just done the mod to the rear chassis , only thro looking on the different bits on the xb4'14 !! , ive cut the peice off , and made 2 brass weights ( each 1mm thick , plastic bit is 2mm ) , weighing a total of 34g , to go in place of the plastic peice ..

when you said you ran it without the plastic peice , was that without any weights and on the standard hinge pin holders ? or the optional ones ?

i'm running my xb4 on astro turf , but as its a bit cold and damp/wet , i'm just trying to put some weight under the rear end to increase a bit of grip , but after reading your post im wondering if i should take one spacer out , soo its still lower but also has some added weight ... whats your thoughts ??

cheers shaun
__________________
xray xb4 and xray t4'14 ...
shaun207 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2013, 09:56 AM   #3657
Tech Elite
 
mjk1210's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,539
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by auto2 View Post
yes the 10.5 in mine was perfect for me.very controlable easy to drive. my thought is we have 2 tracks close to us and they are both so different. i had the 10.5 still in from the other track (vid below) but i found it still good on the bigger track. my question is without redoing the whole car what is good to change between tracks? the small track is very smooth,very tight, with med traction and some dust at times , heated.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=F6EC2rnkwrk
my "go to" changes are rear outer hinge pin, upper rear shock tower, ackerman on steering rack. maybe use the softer springs on front for a really tight track to get plenty of steering.
__________________
Speed Passion USA - speedpassion.net
Leisure Hours Hobbies & Raceway - leisurehoursraceway.com
"Watch the quad. Watch the quad! ...SHA-BAM!"
mjk1210 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2013, 10:04 AM   #3658
Tech Elite
 
mjk1210's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,539
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaun207 View Post
hi , ive only just done the mod to the rear chassis , only thro looking on the different bits on the xb4'14 !! , ive cut the peice off , and made 2 brass weights ( each 1mm thick , plastic bit is 2mm ) , weighing a total of 34g , to go in place of the plastic peice ..

when you said you ran it without the plastic peice , was that without any weights and on the standard hinge pin holders ? or the optional ones ?

i'm running my xb4 on astro turf , but as its a bit cold and damp/wet , i'm just trying to put some weight under the rear end to increase a bit of grip , but after reading your post im wondering if i should take one spacer out , soo its still lower but also has some added weight ... whats your thoughts ??

cheers shaun
neat idea.
I did not add any weight to the car when I took out the plastic "shim". (it's a shim now, I guess).

I'd say you just gotta try it. it seemed that lowering the gearbox was what made the change since the plastic piece is very light. and I used the stock pin holders.
but perhaps adding weight there will help. with more weight you may want less drag brake on the ESC so that you can roll through corners even more with less chance of the rear end starting to come around as you enter the corner.
maybe my driving style has changed a bit recently but I found that I'm liking less weight on my cars on looser tracks and more weight with more grip. BUT everything has it's limits.
__________________
Speed Passion USA - speedpassion.net
Leisure Hours Hobbies & Raceway - leisurehoursraceway.com
"Watch the quad. Watch the quad! ...SHA-BAM!"
mjk1210 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2013, 10:19 AM   #3659
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjk1210 View Post
neat idea.
I did not add any weight to the car when I took out the plastic "shim". (it's a shim now, I guess).

I'd say you just gotta try it. it seemed that lowering the gearbox was what made the change since the plastic piece is very light. and I used the stock pin holders.
but perhaps adding weight there will help. with more weight you may want less drag brake on the ESC so that you can roll through corners even more with less chance of the rear end starting to come around as you enter the corner.
maybe my driving style has changed a bit recently but I found that I'm liking less weight on my cars on looser tracks and more weight with more grip. BUT everything has it's limits.
ok thanks for your help , i don't normally run with any drag brake , but can see what you mean.. ill try it on sunday , ive also made a 1.5mm weight/shim soo will try them and compare , soo that will be a 1mm , 1.5 and 2mm shim , ive not changed anything else from last weekend , and it was pretty good then , apart from a bit of over rotation if i gave it full beans!!
__________________
xray xb4 and xray t4'14 ...
shaun207 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2013, 05:42 AM   #3660
Tech Elite
 
Potoczak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 3,584
Trader Rating: 111 (100%+)
Default

What do you guys recommend for options and or hopups for this buggy?? Also what spares are needed to be kept in the parts box?? I'm asking about the 2014 version. Thanks.
__________________
Pete Potoczak

Home entertainment specialist
Secure Technologies/ www.stiworldwide.com
Potoczak is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
EP buggies thread sim600 Malaysian R/C Racers 3586 03-30-2016 11:53 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:21 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net