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Old 12-22-2013, 09:19 AM   #3616
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I ran my wheeler last night with bayers euro setup with avid pistons nd plus 2 holders, with 5k front 3rear, the car felt loose with a tone of steering, I'm going to try 7k front 5 rear to see if that helps. Also on one jump I kept on nose diving but I think I had to much drag brake.
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Old 12-22-2013, 11:09 AM   #3617
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I like how you (and several others) refer to it as a "problem"

Keep the joints lubricated and keep the dirt out.

This isn't brain surgery.

Same thing you would do on any race vehicle no matter the scale

The Exotek cups are quality items and adds a bit of bling if you opt for the orange (have had them on the work bench for "a few months now")…..but they are far from a necessity and should never be used as a band aid for lack of 2-3 min. maintenance

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It is not a band aid. It called being smart and fix something Xray should have implemented in the firstplace. They have them on their XB9 center CVD`s, same principle just done different :-)
If you have the Exotek cups, it will/can not happend. You put it on as a safty feature and eliminate something that can go wrong.
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Old 12-22-2013, 11:30 AM   #3618
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Yep……nothing wrong with HeavyD99's approach

My remark was aimed at the constant reference to this being a "problem", when it's just a lack of maintenance from those experiencing this.

Potensial buyers and current owners new to this are getting the impression that they need to go out and buy parts to get rid of the "problem" when all they need to do is just regular maintenance

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It is not a band aid. It called being smart and fix something Xray should have implemented in the firstplace. They have them on their XB9 center CVD`s, same principle just done different :-)
If you have the Exotek cups, it will/can not happend. You put it on as a safty feature and eliminate something that can go wrong.
Again…..not a "problem" for those who actually do the little maintenance required

And as you can see from the quoted post my initial grief was the constant referral to this being a "must buy" item for those contemplating to buy the XB4 for the first time.

It's NOT !

If you want to buy it for the bling or the peace of mind knowing you will neglect the required maintenance then by all means……buy it

You bought the XB4 yet to get some first hand experience and knowledge ?

Bent
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Old 12-22-2013, 12:01 PM   #3619
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I ran my wheeler last night with bayers euro setup with avid pistons nd plus 2 holders, with 5k front 3rear, the car felt loose with a tone of steering, I'm going to try 7k front 5 rear to see if that helps. Also on one jump I kept on nose diving but I think I had to much drag brake.
I run 0 drag brake unless I'm on carpet. Going thicker on the diffs will not help you with traction. What surface are you running on and what tires? I've been using the Bayer set up for awhile now from loamy to high bite clay.. only changing my tires, throttle punch, and throttle curve.

When I went thicker on the diffs it made the car too snappy and it was a real handle to work with. I have 3 extra diffs to experiment but I keep on going back to 5f/3r
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Old 12-22-2013, 12:12 PM   #3620
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I think that happend to two or three cars at Mustit today, so yes, i do not own one, but i have first hand experience. :-)

It is like driving a car with ESP, airbags or Pre-sense. You do not have to buy that car with that equipment, but boy, i am shure glad you did when the accident suddenly and unexpected happend ;-)
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Old 12-22-2013, 12:42 PM   #3621
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I think that happend to two or three cars at Mustit today, so yes, i do not own one, but i have first hand experience. :-)

It is like driving a car with ESP, airbags or Pre-sense. You do not have to buy that car with that equipment, but boy, i am shure glad you did when the accident suddenly and unexpected happend ;-)
That wouldn't be first hand experience as I'm sure you're not the one doing the maintenance on those

And comparing avoiding an accident by the use of safety systems to skipping regular maintenance is kind of a stretch don't you think………but blaiming the manufacturer for a faulty tire when you haven't checked the air pressure in months would be more on the point ;-)

We've been racing 3 of these for a year now and no signs of any pins wanting to protrude any plastic covers…….but I'm guessing we're just lucky…….OR ?

And I actually prefer to drive the car myself instead of being in the hands of all sorts of electronic gadgets trying to "help" me
But that could just be me seeing I've been racing 1:1 vehicles on and off since the age of 10

All that aside……NO you don't NEED to buy these CVD cups to enjoy a problem free XB4 ownership…….which has been my point the entire time
If you want to save the cost of these just clean and add some grease to the CVD joints and all will be fine

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Old 12-22-2013, 12:53 PM   #3622
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Hey bent thanks for all the advice!!
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Old 12-22-2013, 01:28 PM   #3623
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I run 0 drag brake unless I'm on carpet. Going thicker on the diffs will not help you with traction. What surface are you running on and what tires? I've been using the Bayer set up for awhile now from loamy to high bite clay.. only changing my tires, throttle punch, and throttle curve.

When I went thicker on the diffs it made the car too snappy and it was a real handle to work with. I have 3 extra diffs to experiment but I keep on going back to 5f/3r
Hard packed bumpy low traction, double dees are the tire of choice. One guy is running the same car with 5 f 2 rear stock setup nd his looks more planted, but he is running a 10.5 motor. I'm using a 6.5.
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Old 12-22-2013, 01:30 PM   #3624
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Ive been running mine with little to no maintenance for 8 weeks and only problem was set screw came loose…so time for a little cleaning and lubing.Tire ware seem to go up on higher diff oils...
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Old 12-22-2013, 01:44 PM   #3625
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What's the point of the 2mm suspension mounts? Raising the roll center 2mm is a huge change. I understand you dont want to run without the rear spacer without raising the inner arm mount because you will lose cvd plunge and make the car looser on power. Why not use the stock hangers and raise the rc with the inserts? Ran mine yesterday for first time on indoor clay track with stock setup and was loose on power. Tried 7k/3k fluids and car was hooked up on power but way too aggressive off power. Went back to 10k front and car was perfect. Had steering dual rate backed off to 75% and car was on rails. Like driving a touring car on dirt. Love this car!
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:28 PM   #3626
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What esc settings are you running and your EPA? That's allot of motor for a loose track if your settings are high

I'm running an 7.5 with the Orion at punch 3, throttle curve at -13%/75 (mt-4), steering rate at 80%
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:41 PM   #3627
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What's the point of the 2mm suspension mounts? Raising the roll center 2mm is a huge change. I understand you dont want to run without the rear spacer without raising the inner arm mount because you will lose cvd plunge and make the car looser on power. Why not use the stock hangers and raise the rc with the inserts? Ran mine yesterday for first time on indoor clay track with stock setup and was loose on power. Tried 7k/3k fluids and car was hooked up on power but way too aggressive off power. Went back to 10k front and car was perfect. Had steering dual rate backed off to 75% and car was on rails. Like driving a touring car on dirt. Love this car!
What surface type are u running on? Also are u running the +2 mounts?
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:49 PM   #3628
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We've been racing 3 of these for a year now and no signs of any pins wanting to protrude any plastic covers…….but I'm guessing we're just lucky…….OR ?
I don't discount your luck, but if the alum cups reduce a chance of a DNF, then they should be used. still the best car out there and if this is the biggest problem people are having now, well, that's not so bad.
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:02 PM   #3629
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What esc settings are you running and your EPA? That's allot of motor for a loose track if your settings are high

I'm running an 7.5 with the Orion at punch 3, throttle curve at -13%/75 (mt-4), steering rate at 80%

Agreed. if the track is very large and you need the top end, you can try to gear up and turn the EPA way down. it will actually soften the bottom end too but still get some top speed that way because of the gearing. or change to less motor. 6.5 is a lot of motor to run at full rip on anything less than pretty good traction. play with other ESC settings too. punch, boost, or any of that stuff.

I also agree on the diff oils. After going down to 5 and 3 I haven't wanted to change back to thicker oils. If I am running slicks on clay or on super high bite again, I probably will. But anything less than that and it just isn't as good.
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:18 PM   #3630
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What esc settings are you running and your EPA? That's allot of motor for a loose track if your settings are high

I'm running an 7.5 with the Orion at punch 3, throttle curve at -13%/75 (mt-4), steering rate at 80%
I'm running orion as well, punch level 3 no boost and turbo at 4, neutral range at 6%. I have a very smooth throttle finger. I'll try to turn the dual rate down.
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