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Old 12-16-2013, 11:56 PM   #3571
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lol the durango and AE HT ones work, probably the schumacher ones as well
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:01 AM   #3572
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I'm going to try the Exoteck aluminum collars since I shot a pin through the plastic. Very miffed with Xray on that part
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:18 AM   #3573
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I'm going to try the Exoteck aluminum collars since I shot a pin through the plastic. Very miffed with Xray on that part
Durango parts are cheaper but granted not a blingy
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:20 AM   #3574
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Originally Posted by Threedprof View Post
I'm going to try the Exoteck aluminum collars since I shot a pin through the plastic. Very miffed with Xray on that part

Only reason this happens is lack of maintenance from driver/owner letting the axle joint run dry which in time pushes the pin through the plastic collar

Just clean and add a small amount of black grease……takes 1 minute……and you'll never have this "problem" again

Bent
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:26 AM   #3575
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Just finished the build, must say very nice build as well quality of kit. The only thing I'm disappointed in was they are still using last years setup sheet?? No mention of new +2 holders, the 2mm shim for the rear hubs is confusing on the sheet, as well as the 2mm shim for the arms is not even mentioned.
XB4 '14 setup sheets are now up

http://forum.teamxray.com/xsheets.php



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Old 12-17-2013, 12:34 AM   #3576
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Good to know, Bent. How often do you lube the joints?
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:57 AM   #3577
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Good to know, Bent. How often do you lube the joints?
All depends on surface and conditions really

Indoors clay with little to no dust…..once a week.

Outdoors dirt…..end of day after clean up.

Outdoors dirt in the wet……2-3 times during the day……after practice…..after qualifying and after clean up.

It really only takes 2-3 minutes to do all 6 joints with a bit of cleaner, compressed air and black grease (or motorcycle dry lubricant) !

Added bonus is you get much less wear and slop in the joints and it lets the suspension cycle smoother

Maintenance is key to a well performing buggy

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Old 12-17-2013, 01:05 AM   #3578
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post

Added bonus is you get much less wear and slop in the joints and it lets the suspension cycle smoother

Maintenance is key to a well performing buggy

Bent
I did it once in 4 months after the pin popped. My drivetrain was freer before I put more grease in the joints. ha.

(I was doing bearings every 6-8 runs. ignored the cvds. lol.)
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Old 12-17-2013, 01:25 AM   #3579
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Thanks for the advice! What cleaner do you use? Can I use a standard carb cleaner spray? How do you aactually clean it? Spray directly into the joint then dry it out?
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Old 12-17-2013, 01:42 AM   #3580
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I did it once in 4 months after the pin popped. My drivetrain was freer before I put more grease in the joints. ha.

(I was doing bearings every 6-8 runs. ignored the cvds. lol.)
He he…..whatever works for you

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Thanks for the advice! What cleaner do you use? Can I use a standard carb cleaner spray? How do you aactually clean it? Spray directly into the joint then dry it out?

Any cleaner that dissolves grease would work.

One that dries out would be preferred so you are certain you don't have any residue that will break down the new grease you apply

I use an automotive degreaser and a small brush and either let them sit and dry or blow them dry with compressed air.

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Old 12-17-2013, 06:05 AM   #3581
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Only reason this happens is lack of maintenance from driver/owner letting the axle joint run dry which in time pushes the pin through the plastic collar

Just clean and add a small amount of black grease……takes 1 minute……and you'll never have this "problem" again

Bent

I skipped this problem entirely by 1) using Tamiya Anti wear grease, it is a really think silver paste that maintains lubrication really well, 2) using Exotek aluminum collars and then 3) installing Durango cvd dust boots on all those joints keeping the dirt out. Works like a charm.
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Old 12-17-2013, 06:22 AM   #3582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
I skipped this problem entirely by 1) using Tamiya Anti wear grease, it is a really think silver paste that maintains lubrication really well, 2) using Exotek aluminum collars and then 3) installing Durango cvd dust boots on all those joints keeping the dirt out. Works like a charm.
I like how you (and several others) refer to it as a "problem"

Keep the joints lubricated and keep the dirt out.

This isn't brain surgery.

Same thing you would do on any race vehicle no matter the scale

The Exotek cups are quality items and adds a bit of bling if you opt for the orange (have had them on the work bench for "a few months now")…..but they are far from a necessity and should never be used as a band aid for lack of 2-3 min. maintenance

Bent
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:01 AM   #3583
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When they mention the 2mm shim for rear hubs on the setup sheet. How do u know if it's on the left or right of the hub
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:27 AM   #3584
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
I skipped this problem entirely by 1) using Tamiya Anti wear grease, it is a really think silver paste that maintains lubrication really well, 2) using Exotek aluminum collars and then 3) installing Durango cvd dust boots on all those joints keeping the dirt out. Works like a charm.
+1 Did the same thing to mine. Works like a charm!
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:32 AM   #3585
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
I like how you (and several others) refer to it as a "problem"

Keep the joints lubricated and keep the dirt out.

This isn't brain surgery.

Same thing you would do on any race vehicle no matter the scale

The Exotek cups are quality items and adds a bit of bling if you opt for the orange (have had them on the work bench for "a few months now")…..but they are far from a necessity and should never be used as a band aid for lack of 2-3 min. maintenance

Bent
Agreed! But we are doing exactly as you suggest, "Keep the joints lubricated and keep the dirt out" Same outcome, just different approach.
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