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Old 12-11-2013, 06:56 PM   #3541
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Quick question.
Does soaking the orings in diff oil help to prevent the gear diffs from leaking?
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:21 PM   #3542
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Awesome thanks. Got my 2014 coming and a few exotek upgrades. Love my current xb4 and love it
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Old 12-12-2013, 06:36 AM   #3543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leongkc View Post
Quick question.
Does soaking the orings in diff oil help to prevent the gear diffs from leaking?
Not really, I put a little grease on the oring seat and push the oring down, the grease helps seal a but better, and grease the out drive that goes thru the housing, that slight relief is their to hold grease and act as a last minute seal
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Old 12-12-2013, 06:49 AM   #3544
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Well, the theory here is that if you soak the o-rings, the swell up a little bit, making them seal better...

So unless the o-rings in these diffs are some how impervious to swelling(maybe they are), it should work.

Certainly isn't going to hurt to soak them.
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Old 12-12-2013, 07:12 AM   #3545
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Soaking or greasing them don't seem to work.
Mine still leaks after every run.....
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:14 AM   #3546
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Try some of the green slime from associated. That's the best for orings I have found
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:51 AM   #3547
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Make sure have just enough oil, mine do not leak at all.
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:53 AM   #3548
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Haven't had a leaking issue with mine, but I did assemble with green slime. You may have a bad oring. The orange Kyosho orings may solve your issue as well.
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:22 AM   #3549
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Is there only one company making weight kits?
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:53 AM   #3550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonslo View Post
Try some of the green slime from associated. That's the best for orings I have found
The point of green slime however is to coat the orings and prevent the silicone oil from getting into the rubber and causing them to swell....
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Old 12-12-2013, 02:03 PM   #3551
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just got my xb4:-) 2014. any build tips or set up ideas?i run on 2 tracks. one is tight indoor small med traction dirt and the other is large for tenth scale outdoor with a roof.

http://youtu.be/mDdc8iCzvUQ
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Old 12-12-2013, 02:52 PM   #3552
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Originally Posted by auto2 View Post
just got my xb4:-) 2014. any build tips or set up ideas?i run on 2 tracks. one is tight indoor small med traction dirt and the other is large for tenth scale outdoor with a roof.

http://youtu.be/mDdc8iCzvUQ
I just picked up my kit as well nd clicked on the vid realizing I race at same tracks lol. Did u get it from Cruzin. I'm putting the avid pistons on my car as well starting with 5k front 3 rear I'm also going to be playing with the +2 rear holders to see if they help.
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Old 12-12-2013, 03:24 PM   #3553
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I just picked up my kit as well nd clicked on the vid realizing I race at same tracks lol. Did u get it from Cruzin. I'm putting the avid pistons on my car as well starting with 5k front 3 rear I'm also going to be playing with the +2 rear holders to see if they help.
yes I did.small world lol.
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Old 12-12-2013, 06:56 PM   #3554
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Haven't had a leaking issue with mine, but I did assemble with green slime. You may have a bad oring. The orange Kyosho orings may solve your issue as well.
I did change out to new o-rings.
Green slime is a no no. The idea behind green slime is like someone just said, to prevent o-rings from swelling. This product came about because the o-rings on the Associated shocks swell alot from the shock oil and caused stiction.
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Old 12-13-2013, 03:19 AM   #3555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auto2 View Post
just got my xb4:-) 2014. any build tips or set up ideas?i run on 2 tracks. one is tight indoor small med traction dirt and the other is large for tenth scale outdoor with a roof.

http://youtu.be/mDdc8iCzvUQ
some things I typically change when going from a bigger track to a smaller track are:

smaller track:
1. lighter diff oil (5/3) (for higher traction I may change that to thicker oils) - this change makes it feel like I can get into and out of the tight corners quicker with more power applied through and out of the corner

2. move to front ackerman holes on steering rack - for really tight tracks this can add steering to the point that the rear end will swing around for the really tight turns.

3. move rear outer hinge pin to inner hole through hub. car seems more reactive to steering inputs. the rear doesn't feel like it lags behind in a turn.

4. for very tight tracks I will move the front shocks to the inner hole on the arm. this instantly adds droop and keeps the front tires on the ground longer as the chassis rolls through a turn. it can feel very aggressive this way though.


for larger tracks:
1. move rear shock in one hole on top.

2. heavier diff oil - especially if there is more traction

3. outer hinge pin hole on rear hub

4. rearward holes in steering rack


most of the time for larger tracks I'm trying to get the car to not rotate too early in the turn. the bigger and more sweeping the turns, the more I use these changes to dial the car in for the way I like to drive it.

Also, remember to tune for the majority of the track. I see a lot of people tuning for that ONE jump or the fast sweeper on a track only to get it wrong for nearly every other section.

for that track in the video I would personally change my car like I mentioned for small tracks with the exception of the front shock position on the arm. it looks like that track may be a little too loose to deal with that much steering.
Hope this helps
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