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Old 12-07-2013, 07:00 AM   #3511
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For a tight low to md traction indoor track with a lot of 180, what diff oils should I start with
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:06 AM   #3512
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What are the short coming of the xb4?
I would say
1) Shock pistons. awful lot of blow by and they're molded, not machined, but they seem to work ok. . I use a fairly different setup to everyone else though. Total shock package isn't too bad.

2) CVD pin punches through the plastic cover. Apparently a sign that it needs grease. Get exotek caps or just redo all cvds every 1-2 months...

3) Shock caps may leak. Optional O-rings may not stop leaks. Alu caps still leak. I've probably had leaks 50% of the time when not using green slime. Sometimes you just get it right...

4) I broke the back part of a wing mount. Plastic a little bit too stiff maybe?

5) Broken one ballcup. Mybad, I hit a wooden board that was lining a jump. They're the same ones off the touring chassis though. Would have liked something a touch stronger?

6) I think someone said the new arms broke at the screwhole for the cf stiffeners?
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:11 AM   #3513
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Has anyone used the avid pistons? If so what are ur thoughts?
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Old 12-07-2013, 08:10 AM   #3514
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The AVID pistons are dialed, I went to them and haven't looked back.
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:32 AM   #3515
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The AVID pistons are dialed, I went to them and haven't looked back.
Which ones did u get? Also what oil wt did u use?
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Old 12-07-2013, 11:23 AM   #3516
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Are u guys using the stock servo horn, or going aftermarket? If so which one
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Old 12-07-2013, 11:37 AM   #3517
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The AVID pistons are dialed, I went to them and haven't looked back.
What sort of track do you run on? Indoor/outdoor, clay? High or low grip, big jumps, open or tight?? I ask because I have ordered up some custom 1.6 and 1.7 2 hole pistons instead of the Avids. I hope I made the right decision! Now I see the X-ray set ups use 1.4 2 hole and 1.3 3 hole!
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:46 PM   #3518
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the guy I got my buggy from said the avid pistons work well but did not seem to make a huge difference I suppose different tracks will pose different problems for the car.
After reading through the entire thread nobody complained too much about the car being twitchy which in associated's set up the 10 hole pistons made the difference
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:36 AM   #3519
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Got to try out Panther's new orange foams last night, They fill the tires up but keep the tread flat and soft, they're choice. Buggy felt o.k. w/super softs all around but it def didn't fix the loose rear.. Also went from 7k/3k to 7/5 and ended up at 10/5 in the diffs to slow it down a bit. Still need to get the rear locked in.
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:27 AM   #3520
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Got to try out Panther's new orange foams last night, They fill the tires up but keep the tread flat and soft, they're choice. Buggy felt o.k. w/super softs all around but it def didn't fix the loose rear.. Also went from 7k/3k to 7/5 and ended up at 10/5 in the diffs to slow it down a bit. Still need to get the rear locked in.
Where is your car loose in the corner? Or is it just loose in the rear at all times? What type if dirt? What setup? What tires did you decide on?
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:29 AM   #3521
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Had my first issue with the car last night while practicing. The set pin for the front drive shaft managed to punch through the little plastic collar and basically stopped the drive train while going full bore down a straight away . Dug a little hole in the chassis, but nothing major.


I have noticed that the it seems the gears are absorbing the diff oil. My diffs don't leak, but when I have checked them they are nearly empty! No oil residue within the diff housing, so I am assuming the gears are some how absorbing a lot of the oil.
is there still problems with the pin goes through the plastic collar?

is the gears absorbing a lot of the oil? if so how often do you check the diff's?
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Old 12-08-2013, 11:24 AM   #3522
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I've been running ions in mc but tried Panther rattlers and bobcats in ss last night. I honestly felt the mc ions were more consistent but I didn't have a chance to try mc fronts and ss rears because I finally broke a front arm w/a severe lawn dart into the face of a triple halfway thru the first qual.
So, it just seems to have to much front traction cornering. If I grab it on the strait, it goes strait and brakes strait but Im not confident in turning the wheel under acceleration or braking. I feel like I need to run the throttle/brake or wheel, both dont work well together... I'm not complaining, the car is fast, Im just not good enough driver to make it consistently fast w/how it's setup. I actually tried my buddies 44.2 "TQ/1st car" because he was watching me burn some laps and said mine looked like a handful, It was much easier to drive fast.
My diffs seem to "absorb" oil too. In a very short period of time.. Thanks for the feedback guys. I appreciate it.
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Old 12-08-2013, 04:16 PM   #3523
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Originally Posted by Blown up View Post
I've been running ions in mc but tried Panther rattlers and bobcats in ss last night. I honestly felt the mc ions were more consistent but I didn't have a chance to try mc fronts and ss rears because I finally broke a front arm w/a severe lawn dart into the face of a triple halfway thru the first qual.
So, it just seems to have to much front traction cornering. If I grab it on the strait, it goes strait and brakes strait but Im not confident in turning the wheel under acceleration or braking. I feel like I need to run the throttle/brake or wheel, both dont work well together... I'm not complaining, the car is fast, Im just not good enough driver to make it consistently fast w/how it's setup. I actually tried my buddies 44.2 "TQ/1st car" because he was watching me burn some laps and said mine looked like a handful, It was much easier to drive fast.
My diffs seem to "absorb" oil too. In a very short period of time.. Thanks for the feedback guys. I appreciate it.
What setup are you running?
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:21 PM   #3524
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I still want to try the Bayer Euro setup like u had mentioned but need parts so I can use the entire setup.
I picked it up used very little on here and looks to be stock setup, not positive what was in the diffs when I got it but that was what felt best, been all over w/them since 3/3,5/3,5/5,7/5,and now at 10/5, I haven't gone to crazy w/other adjustments because I need to make a parts order w/pistons, orings, shims, gaskets, arms ect and I can tell minor changes isn't going to get it where I need it. Thats what made me think tires but did'nt really help. I guess I'm going to try cutting the plastic from under the rear diff w/the stock hangers, From what i hear the option hangers aren't the ticket. Really need a day at the track after I get some parts to test. Again, It's fast and I can pull off fast lap but not every lap. Tonight I was thinking of just turning my servo speed down, w/a .06 in this rack, may just me way to fast for me. I'm use to running these XP1015 in sct's...
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Old 12-09-2013, 03:49 AM   #3525
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
For a tight low to md traction indoor track with a lot of 180, what diff oils should I start with
i like 5k frt, 3k rear for those conditions. The bigger the track or higher the traction the higher I will go in diff oils. seems to work well that way for me
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