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Old 12-13-2012, 03:06 PM   #331
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How does this buggy perform on a dirt or clay track?
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:15 PM   #332
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
I'm sure the hit he took from that SC weakened it as well prior to the failure.

But looking at the part it did look kind of brittle.

Wouldn't mind towers done in 3.5mm or even 4mm for some added strength for the camber link mounts

So did you finish yours tonight ?

I had to leave early to get my daughter to bed and with her breaking a c-hub + axle and then an a-arm + axle there wasn't much time left to finish mine

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Looking at your signature your using the Tekin 6.5t, what gearing are you running?
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:36 PM   #333
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Looking at your signature your using the Tekin 6.5t, what gearing are you running?

Had to leave early so I didn't have time to get the ESC hooked up to go for a test drive

Kind of got held up wrenching on my daughters SC10 4x4 after she wrecked twice.

I have singled out a 19 and 20 to test for our track though......might start with the 19.

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Old 12-13-2012, 04:26 PM   #334
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Looking at your signature your using the Tekin 6.5t, what gearing are you running?
Based on the gearing which I use in the DEX410, I will be starting with a 19t pinion too. I use 6.5t Pure2 Nosram.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:58 PM   #335
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are the gear diffs metal(Crown and Pinion)? or composites?

seems like the internals are composites.

thanks,
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:27 PM   #336
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are the gear diffs metal(Crown and Pinion)? or composites?

seems like the internals are composites.

thanks,
Outdrives are metal.....rest is composite

Bent
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:35 AM   #337
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How does this buggy perform on a dirt or clay track?
oh, wouldnt you like to know.
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:13 AM   #338
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Some Spare parts was onsale now !
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:06 AM   #339
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From the xray forum:

There is no reason to be concerned before you drive or even build the car. The car has plenty of hours of track tests in different conditions. Martin Bayer even used the final specs car in real races including the Czech Championship which he won, so the reliability was tested and is proven.

Slipper clutch - if you have the slipper clutch set loose you do not need to worry, the wheels will slip and the pinion will not break. If you however tighten the slipper too much (and this is what happen to those who experienced problems) you will create a solid axle instead of slipper clutch, the wheels will not slip and something (pinion) will break. That is common on all buggies of other brands using slipper clutch in the market.

Shimming the diff - Very Important - do not ship the diff. As mentioned in other threads, the diff was designed by purpose with a small play. If you shim the diff you will eliminate the play. The diff will during operation get warm and expand and if there is no play the diff will not work properly. Therefore there should be NO shims used.

Satelitte gears - they are made by purpose from composite, they are lighter and have better dynamic performance. They are moulded from very special composite mixture and have very good reliability. The same gears from same special material are used in the T4 and NT1 gear diff and the traction on foam tires on asphalt is several times higher than on a buggy track. Since there are no problems with the NT1 gear diffs at all there is absolutely no need for any worry about the composite gears for XB4. However if you want to feel more safe you can use the NT1 metalic optional gears #335030, they are direct fit.
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:22 AM   #340
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I would say breaking pinions or rotor shafts would mean a solid drive train.
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:38 AM   #341
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From the xray forum:
Slipper clutch - if you have the slipper clutch set loose you do not need to worry, the wheels will slip and the pinion will not break. If you however tighten the slipper too much (and this is what happen to those who experienced problems) you will create a solid axle instead of slipper clutch, the wheels will not slip and something (pinion) will break. That is common on all buggies of other brands using slipper clutch in the market.
Well, almost all other buggies on the market, except Durango. Sorry, just had to say it. /end hijack
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:40 AM   #342
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I would say breaking pinions or rotor shafts would mean a solid drive train.
when he says "pinion" he's referring to the diff pinion..I assume anyway.

Or am I reading YOUR post wrong?....but yes if you're breaking either of those I would consider the drive train bullet proof.
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:22 AM   #343
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I guess I'll need to watch my slipper. On my Durango, it is locked down completely
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:14 AM   #344
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
I would say breaking pinions or rotor shafts would mean a solid drive train.
Its referring to parts INSIDE the diff......
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:52 AM   #345
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Originally Posted by OleC View Post
READ THIS, IMPORTANT INFO!

I started building mine last night, and found something:

The manual says nothing about using shims to get proper mesh from the crown and pinion gears in the diff casing. There are no shims supplied either.

BUT, I had to add 0,2mm of shims in the rear diff, and 0,3mm of shims in the front diff to get perfect mesh.
That is quite a lot IMO, but not all kits will be the same so check yours while building. And check your car if you already have built it!

I had to use shims to get a tighter mesh. With the loose mesh I had in my diffs with no shims, I would not be surprised if the gears would strip quite easily.

ALL crown gears and pinions need to be shimmed in order to have perfect mesh, which is crucial for durability. I am a bit surprised that Xray chose not to include this...

Tamiya makes some very nice shim kits in 0,1 and 0,2 and 0,3mm thicknes (TAMIYA part number 53588 for the 10mm set). I bought a bunch of shim sets in various sizes some years a go, since there is always something that need to be shimmed properly
better take your diffs back apart . . . xray says shimming = bad news bears

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Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
Shimming the diff - Very Important - do not ship the diff. As mentioned in other threads, the diff was designed by purpose with a small play. If you shim the diff you will eliminate the play. The diff will during operation get warm and expand and if there is no play the diff will not work properly. Therefore there should be NO shims used.
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