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Old 11-06-2013, 07:19 AM   #3286
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Exactly the issue I have. It may only be the slightest bit and maybe not enough to have a noticeable effect the rear geometry but it is the kind of thing that for me when I know it's not right I lose confidence in the car. Between that and wanting the ability to stiffen the chassis even more I would love to see a stiffer/stronger chassis.
Do you have this issue with the new XB4 2014?
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:28 AM   #3287
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Do you have this issue with the new XB4 2014?
no, but I believe the chassis is unchanged, there is no mention of any change by Xray. It is minor but it is there. I doubt it has any real effect but that kind of stuff bothers me.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:05 AM   #3288
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Just got a xb4 off of a trade. It is a v2 so is there anything that I should look for before running this weekend.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:09 AM   #3289
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Check the slipper and set it by the book and go from there.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:22 AM   #3290
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Just got a xb4 off of a trade. It is a v2 so is there anything that I should look for before running this weekend.
redo the shocks, check the slipper (do not follow the book.. it is wrong! http://www.petitrc.com/setup/xray/setupxb4/XB4_Tips/), re-grease the outdrives, check the bearings, and I would personally redo the diffs (making sure its running the right fluid, the correct amount, and no damaged teeth on the bevel gears)

**On the slipper the adjustment will vary from how used your car is to what level of grip surface you are racing on. its always better to start on the loose side then tight
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:48 AM   #3291
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I like things simple, so here's my understanding of the new 2014 spec parts, the most notable items:

The new +2mm rear hangers were designed to provide more forward traction on low traction tracks. Use them directly on the chassis - no chassis plate.

For high-medium traction tracks, stick with the original spec rear hangers and use the chassis plate (no need to cut up your original plastic moulded 2013 chassis). These new rear hangers are not 2mm wider, they are 2mm higher, basically playing with the roll centres and anti squat/height of the rear end. I run med-high traction clay and occasionally astro, so I will not be dropping $60 and hacking up my chassis to get the new hangers just yet.

Question:Martin Bayer ran the new hangers AND the chassis plate and won the 2013 Euro's with it that way. His set up sheet does not show this but if you look at photos of his buggy it is obvious, the rear shot shows RR+2 and the spacer is clearly there. What would combing the two give him?

Front and rear A-arms - redesigned, but maintain the same geometry. You can now move them forward or aft 2mm with spacers. They are also now able to accept carbon fiber stiffeners for high traction - likely carpet/astro type tracks. You can also mount the rear shocks to the backside of the rear arms, apparently for high traction (I'm not sure how this really works to be honest - the same shock with the same oil/spring mounted in the same spot, in front or behind the arm should not yield different handling). (I'll get the new arms once I break mine)

New slipper pads & spring - cool (These I'll get)

New front wheels - they are +1mm wider. If I ran my -.75mm hexes in the rear, would not give me similar results?

Still no machined pistons!
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:30 AM   #3292
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Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
redo the shocks, check the slipper (do not follow the book.. it is wrong! http://www.petitrc.com/setup/xray/setupxb4/XB4_Tips/), re-grease the outdrives, check the bearings, and I would personally redo the diffs (making sure its running the right fluid, the correct amount, and no damaged teeth on the bevel gears)

**On the slipper the adjustment will vary from how used your car is to what level of grip surface you are racing on. its always better to start on the loose side then tight
Depends on how old the kit is. Newer 13' kits have the manual updated with the correct slipper settings. Download the latest manual from the Xray site. It should have all the latest info.

Also, as already suggested, redo the diffs, especially the rear one. My rear diff seems to "consume" more oil than the front one.
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Old 11-06-2013, 04:19 PM   #3293
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When will the new 2014 xb4 be out?
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:06 PM   #3294
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I was wondering the same thing. I'm debating between this or the 2wd. Just planing on what electrics I go with. I've seen em both the cheapest on stormer.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:25 PM   #3295
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Mid nov is what RCA told me yesterday
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:52 PM   #3296
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Ya I'm getting the xb4 first then when the rear motor comes out then I'll get that one. Thx for the eta Ron
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:57 AM   #3297
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Hi XRay Community,

I am interested in an XRAY XB4 2014, but just realized the gear diff pinion are plastic. Carbon gear diff pinion or metal are optional parts. Sounds like in top of the higher price as other vendors XRAY wants to sell optional parts.
Or is the plastic diff as durable as the others like TLR AE Durnago etc?
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:27 AM   #3298
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Originally Posted by racer_hh View Post
Hi XRay Community,

I am interested in an XRAY XB4 2014, but just realized the gear diff pinion are plastic. Carbon gear diff pinion or metal are optional parts. Sounds like in top of the higher price as other vendors XRAY wants to sell optional parts.
Or is the plastic diff as durable as the others like TLR AE Durnago etc?
haha. did you really say "as durable as TLR, AE, Durango?" yes, they are as durable as those. But those others aren't as durable as the ones from X-Ray. Not even close.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:32 AM   #3299
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Check the slipper and set it by the book and go from there.
Although this is good advice, I find that no two cars are really exactly the same and if someone tightened down on the spring a little more than someone else, then a measured setting will not be the same. I have found that by starting with a loose slipper and holding the rear wheels while blipping the throttle is the surest way to get it where I want it. Start loose. I mean real loose so it will most definitely slip. A quick blip to hear it slip. then tighten a little at a time until either the pitch of the sound of the slipper changes and/or the front wheels just barely start to lift from the table. I've set mine like this for months now and it has run great with plenty of acceleration and jumping capability with very little wear on any gears or drivetrain parts.
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:31 PM   #3300
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You can also mount the rear shocks to the backside of the rear arms, apparently for high traction (I'm not sure how this really works to be honest - the same shock with the same oil/spring mounted in the same spot, in front or behind the arm should not yield different handling).
If you think of the front axle line as the pivot point, the closer the shock is to that line, the softer it will become. The further away, the more stiff it will be.

Moving the shock to the back will have less affect on bump handling than just running a stiffer combo to achieve similar results.

Really, it's just like laying down or standing up your shocks, but on a different axis.

It would be real easy for me to speak the explanation, but for some reason I can't seem to find the right words on here.. derp.
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