R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree36Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-03-2013, 07:33 PM   #3271
Tech Addict
 
Arigato's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: 'Vegas Baby!
Posts: 631
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by T3tsaya View Post
Thanks I will put it on 15 on the can as that's the lowest I can go but if I'm at 16/81 i don't understand gearing then because you guys are running 19 pinions and I'm at 16/81 should I put on a bigger main gear like the 84?
Yes.
__________________
Dog House Racing
XRay XB8E
XRay XB4
XRay XB2
XRay T4'17
Arigato is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2013, 11:37 PM   #3272
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 763
Trader Rating: 9 (91%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by T3tsaya View Post
Thanks I will put it on 15 on the can as that's the lowest I can go but if I'm at 16/81 i don't understand gearing then because you guys are running 19 pinions and I'm at 16/81 should I put on a bigger main gear like the 84?
Trust me...its that 20 degrees timing that is heating everything up.
Remove it.
leongkc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2013, 05:20 AM   #3273
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 242
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

So if i put the esc on blinky and the motor on 15 because that's as low as it goes I should be fine as long as I put my spur at 84 and gear the pinion accordingly
T3tsaya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2013, 05:45 AM   #3274
Tech Elite
 
asc6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Meridian Idaho
Posts: 3,386
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Gearing is a critical thing. Get a full range of gears in your box.
Here's a good article on proper gearing.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ear_ratios.pdf
And if the math is too complicated, heres a gearing calculator.
http://gearing.rcgearhead.com/Gearing/Browse
__________________
"you reach the limit, you touch the limit, then you pass the limit, now there is a new limit"
Ayrton Senna
asc6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2013, 06:20 AM   #3275
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 242
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by asc6000 View Post
Gearing is a critical thing. Get a full range of gears in your box.
Here's a good article on proper gearing.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ear_ratios.pdf
And if the math is too complicated, heres a gearing calculator.
http://gearing.rcgearhead.com/Gearing/Browse
That was helpful but the xb4 doesn't have some of the stuff mentioned there like for a 4wd car it mentioned pulleys and this car uses diffs so I can figure the ratio between my spur and pinion but how do I get the rest sorry for being such a pain just never really had to do much with heat. I would always just pinion down if it was too hot thanks for the help I really appreciate it
T3tsaya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2013, 07:20 AM   #3276
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 242
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Okay I think I figured it out and with the 16/81 I wa running it says that's I'm running a fdr of 12.66 and for a 6.5 in this car it recommends a fdr of 10 or 11 which would mean I need a 19 or 20 tooth pinion but I'm almost positive that my car would melt with gearing that high so I put the 84 tooth pinion on and with 16/84 I'm at a fdr of 13.13 so what should I do for my 100x50 tight track. Like I said I took the timing to 15 on the motor can which is as low as I can go and I'm in blinky on my esc
T3tsaya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2013, 07:26 AM   #3277
Tech Master
 
BentKa's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,348
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by T3tsaya View Post
Okay I think I figured it out and with the 16/81 I wa running it says that's I'm running a fdr of 12.66 and for a 6.5 in this car it recommends a fdr of 10 or 11 which would mean I need a 19 or 20 tooth pinion but I'm almost positive that my car would melt with gearing that high so I put the 84 tooth pinion on and with 16/84 I'm at a fdr of 13.13 so what should I do for my 100x50 tight track. Like I said I took the timing to 15 on the motor can which is as low as I can go and I'm in blinky on my esc
19 to 20 pinion with a standard spur with a 6.5T no added timing on the motor is what we have been running all season (except 7.5T on very loose tracks).

I would try a 19T and standard spur for a track of that size.
And set the motor to the standard timing it came with to avoid unnecessary heat build up and add a bit of boost instead if needed down the straight

Bent
__________________
Xray XB4 | Xray XB2 | Xray XT2 | Xray XB8 | Xray XB8E | Xray T4 | Xray X12
Factory Team driver for:
XRAY | ORCA | JConcepts | FX-Engines | Hudy | G-Force | Maxima Fuel | Hiro Seiko
DubiDesign | Maugrafix | YeahRacing | rcMart | IB Prostart
Follow Malin on Facebook for race reports and setup tips
BentKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2013, 01:08 PM   #3278
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 347
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by niemand View Post
Is the new aluminium chassis flat lying on its own on a glass board? Because my new one isn't...
On the other hand the aluminium chassis is so soft on its own that it'll probably get straightened out when attached to the plastic chassis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
the old aluminium chassis was bent and tweaked from side to side. the new aluminium chassis didn't lay down perfectly flat but wasn't tweaked.
Quote:
Originally Posted by asc6000 View Post
The chassis is quite soft, my v1.0 was bending at the rear after ten packs, just the tiniest bit but still disconcerting. The chassis wears badly at the rear as well. A harder/stiffer chassis would be nice not only for tuning options but to increase the durability.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Nope not arguing.

But I had to go down and look at the chassis we have been using since it came out and the wear is minimal and all 3 XB4's are as straight as new.
My alu chassis was slightly bent right out of the box... Didn't lay flat on a perfectly flat surface. I contacted Xray support and they never heard of any other with the same "problem". Anyway, when attached to the composite chassis part it straighten itself out and seemed flat so I didn't bother.

But... Now after 4-5 race days I can see the rear being slightly bent upwards. I absolutely love this car and I haven't broke a part on it. I have used it solely on carpet and can't see any sign of wear except for the slight bend. I have seen the same tendency on other XB4s as well. Use a caliper or a metal ruler on its side and hold it against the rear of the alu chassis and you will probably see a gap at the very rear end.
__________________
Sponsored by Maclan Racing
1:10 Xray XB4 - Viper VTX10R BE & VST 7.5 | 1:10 Yokomo YZ2 - Viper VTX10 & VST 8.5 | 1:8 HB Ve8 HHH - Viper VTX8
macke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2013, 01:19 PM   #3279
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 347
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by T3tsaya View Post
Please help guys my xb4 is runnin hot. After two heats we tightened up my slipper and was running about 160 at 5 minutes and after the main 8 minutesI was at 185-190 on the can and 160 on the esc. I'm running the pro trak esc with protrak 6.5 motor with it set one about 20 degrees timing and blinky on the esc. My current gears I'm using is 16 pinion and 81 main and I'm still getting hott. Here is a picture of my track and I have a 84 main gear I can use but don't know what to do. I haven't rechecked my slipper to see if its fried already but I don't think its that the track is about 100x50 with a long straight
Quote:
Originally Posted by T3tsaya View Post
Thanks I will put it on 15 on the can as that's the lowest I can go but if I'm at 16/81 i don't understand gearing then because you guys are running 19 pinions and I'm at 16/81 should I put on a bigger main gear like the 84?
Seems like you are under geared instead of over geared. Try a 18T or 19T. Changing to a 84T spur will probably make it even worse...

Quote:
Originally Posted by leongkc View Post
Trust me...its that 20 degrees timing that is heating everything up.
Remove it.
The timing on the can differs between manufacturers. 20 degrees is not necessarily that much. It depends on the motor. My Viper VST motors comes with 30 degrees of timing on the motor (default) and are adjustable +-15 degrees from that (i.e. they can have 15-45 degrees of timing on the motor).
__________________
Sponsored by Maclan Racing
1:10 Xray XB4 - Viper VTX10R BE & VST 7.5 | 1:10 Yokomo YZ2 - Viper VTX10 & VST 8.5 | 1:8 HB Ve8 HHH - Viper VTX8
macke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2013, 03:13 PM   #3280
Tech Elite
 
asc6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Meridian Idaho
Posts: 3,386
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by macke View Post
But... Now after 4-5 race days I can see the rear being slightly bent upwards. I absolutely love this car and I haven't broke a part on it. I have used it solely on carpet and can't see any sign of wear except for the slight bend. I have seen the same tendency on other XB4s as well. Use a caliper or a metal ruler on its side and hold it against the rear of the alu chassis and you will probably see a gap at the very rear end.
Exactly the issue I have. It may only be the slightest bit and maybe not enough to have a noticeable effect the rear geometry but it is the kind of thing that for me when I know it's not right I lose confidence in the car. Between that and wanting the ability to stiffen the chassis even more I would love to see a stiffer/stronger chassis.
__________________
"you reach the limit, you touch the limit, then you pass the limit, now there is a new limit"
Ayrton Senna
asc6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2013, 05:31 PM   #3281
Tech Addict
 
advpball's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 585
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Just noticed my front tires barcode golds are worn a lot more than the rears?
Think that the problem is center diff to tight or oil in front to low running 5k front and 3 in rear? Stock foams in front ,running 8.5 motor so not over geared ,but car is a little squarely in rear? to much steering? running mostly stock setup.
__________________
tekno sct-410.3,xray xb2 de and xsc2?
eb 48.3 for sale artr 600
all powered by smc battery's and
hobbywing esc, airtronics controlled MT4s
advpball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2013, 05:42 PM   #3282
Tech Master
 
hobdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Albany, OR.
Posts: 1,027
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by advpball View Post
Just noticed my front tires barcode golds are worn a lot more than the rears?
Think that the problem is center diff to tight or oil in front to low running 5k front and 3 in rear? Stock foams in front ,running 8.5 motor so not over geared ,but car is a little squarely in rear? to much steering? running mostly stock setup.
That's normal. Every four wheeler I have had no matter what the diff weights, my front tires always wear faster then the rears
__________________
Lunsford racing
Kyosho RB6
DEX408V2
Hoby
hobdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2013, 07:26 PM   #3283
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 242
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by macke View Post
Seems like you are under geared instead of over geared. Try a 18T or 19T. Changing to a 84T spur will probably make it even worse...


The timing on the can differs between manufacturers. 20 degrees is not necessarily that much. It depends on the motor. My Viper VST motors comes with 30 degrees of timing on the motor (default) and are adjustable +-15 degrees from that (i.e. they can have 15-45 degrees of timing on the motor).
What made me go down to a 16 was that I was getting 165 to 170's with a 19t pinion im not really sure what to do not I mean im on a 100x75 track
T3tsaya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2013, 01:12 AM   #3284
Tech Master
 
BentKa's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,348
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by T3tsaya View Post
What made me go down to a 16 was that I was getting 165 to 170's with a 19t pinion im not really sure what to do not I mean im on a 100x75 track
You've gotten all the correct advice in the last posts in this thread and on PM's with videos to show you track size etc.

Now go out and try the suggested changes as those are what works for all the rest of us

Bent
__________________
Xray XB4 | Xray XB2 | Xray XT2 | Xray XB8 | Xray XB8E | Xray T4 | Xray X12
Factory Team driver for:
XRAY | ORCA | JConcepts | FX-Engines | Hudy | G-Force | Maxima Fuel | Hiro Seiko
DubiDesign | Maugrafix | YeahRacing | rcMart | IB Prostart
Follow Malin on Facebook for race reports and setup tips
BentKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2013, 06:21 AM   #3285
Tech Fanatic
 
Bortzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 872
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

What kind of brake strength are people with a Tekin RS Pro/Tekin motor running? I'm @ 65 on a med traction/smooth indoor clay track. Am I at risk of messing up the gears with that much or is 65 a good #? Thanks!
__________________
Mugen MBX7r / MBX7r Eco
LCRC / Trains and Lanes

"Get the Led out"
Bortzilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
EP buggies thread sim600 Malaysian R/C Racers 3586 03-30-2016 11:53 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:15 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net