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Old 11-01-2013, 06:12 AM   #3256
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nothing wrong with the original chassis
again Bentka argues against making a better product.
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:17 AM   #3257
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I was looking for a full top deck on the 'bay and saw a full length carbon fiber chassis for $44. She was sex-ay!
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:33 AM   #3258
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again Bentka argues against making a better product.
Nope not arguing.

But I had to go down and look at the chassis we have been using since it came out and the wear is minimal and all 3 XB4's are as straight as new.

So I would rather prefer the chassis to be adjustable as it is with flex screws, top deck and braces instead of having a stiffer chassis which would limit tuning options

Because IT WORKS as is



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Old 11-01-2013, 02:06 PM   #3259
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Finally got around to pick up Malin's new rides for the 2013/2014 indoor season

Running Orca Vritra VXX ESC's, TX motors and Infinite batteries.

Can't wait to let her try out the new '14 edition of the XB4 (one for indoor clay and one for carpet) and the new electronics setup



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Old 11-01-2013, 04:22 PM   #3260
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Finally got around to pick up Malin's new rides for the 2013/2014 indoor season

Running Orca Vritra VXX ESC's, TX motors and Infinite batteries.

Can't wait to let her try out the new '14 edition of the XB4 (one for indoor clay and one for carpet) and the new electronics setup



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Sweet, I hope they come our way soon I sold my old car in anticipation of the updated version.
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Old 11-01-2013, 04:31 PM   #3261
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Sweet, I hope they come our way soon I sold my old car in anticipation of the updated version.
They shouldn't be far off as they shipped to distributors last week

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Old 11-01-2013, 06:39 PM   #3262
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In Sweden they are selling at some shops.
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Old 11-01-2013, 07:49 PM   #3263
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I've picked up the two +2 rear lower suspension holders today from MB Models.
363311 and 363321. They are shown below compared to the regular kit rear ones.



I've modified (Dremel) the kit RR holder to allow it to be mounted directly to the chassis, as i'd already removed the plastic rear section of the chassis for the ralls racing under-gearbox weight. I ran the car with the dropped gearbox and modified kit hangers on my slippy and it was excellent. Really helped lock in the rear of the car.

I've now got the new optional +2 hangers and they raise the mount points higher/closer to the outdrive by 2mm. really hoping this helps to lock in the rear end more on the slippy stuff with the dripped gearbox. Testing Sunday, will feedback.
Anyone else done this yet?
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:25 AM   #3264
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I see a lot of xb4's for sale stating v2 upgrade. Does that mean that the seller has upgraded to the 2014 edition that is coming out? If so, why sell. Looking forward to the '14 edition, X-ray site shows lots of changes on the car.
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Old 11-02-2013, 08:37 AM   #3265
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I see a lot of xb4's for sale stating v2 upgrade. Does that mean that the seller has upgraded to the 2014 edition that is coming out? If so, why sell. Looking forward to the '14 edition, X-ray site shows lots of changes on the car.

Nope. Absolutely not. If it was a '14 it would say "14." V2 was sort of like a 2013-1/2.
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Old 11-03-2013, 05:36 PM   #3266
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Please help guys my xb4 is runnin hot. After two heats we tightened up my slipper and was running about 160 at 5 minutes and after the main 8 minutesI was at 185-190 on the can and 160 on the esc. I'm running the pro trak esc with protrak 6.5 motor with it set one about 20 degrees timing and blinky on the esc. My current gears I'm using is 16 pinion and 81 main and I'm still getting hott. Here is a picture of my track and I have a 84 main gear I can use but don't know what to do. I haven't rechecked my slipper to see if its fried already but I don't think its that the track is about 100x50 with a long straight
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Old 11-03-2013, 05:37 PM   #3267
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The track above has a lot of traction but I don't want to hurt my electronics maybe a 6.5 is to much for the track or should I get a fan for the motor maybe. I ran fastest lap of the night out of all classes and took first but I'd rather not hurt my electronics
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:06 PM   #3268
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Originally Posted by T3tsaya View Post
The track above has a lot of traction but I don't want to hurt my electronics maybe a 6.5 is to much for the track or should I get a fan for the motor maybe. I ran fastest lap of the night out of all classes and took first but I'd rather not hurt my electronics
take the timing out.
thats a lot of timing on a 6.5 motor which should not be needed.run zero timing and gear it correctly.

also I am assuming you made sure there is no binding in the drive train
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:14 PM   #3269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neallewis View Post
I've picked up the two +2 rear lower suspension holders today from MB Models.
363311 and 363321. They are shown below compared to the regular kit rear ones.



I've modified (Dremel) the kit RR holder to allow it to be mounted directly to the chassis, as i'd already removed the plastic rear section of the chassis for the ralls racing under-gearbox weight. I ran the car with the dropped gearbox and modified kit hangers on my slippy and it was excellent. Really helped lock in the rear of the car.

I've now got the new optional +2 hangers and they raise the mount points higher/closer to the outdrive by 2mm. really hoping this helps to lock in the rear end more on the slippy stuff with the dripped gearbox. Testing Sunday, will feedback.
Anyone else done this yet?
Hmm, loose as a goose today with them on... Certainly didn't do the magic that I thought best part of 40 would ;-)
Ran with the dropped gearbox, centre insert, lower inner show tower, outside hub hole. I went to 4 deg caster and 1 deg anti squat, as well as moving to lower outer ralls racing tower hole, which helped a little. Far looser than it was previously however? This is meant to be the xb4 low traction mod?

What effect on roll centre does this mod have? If moving the top ball down raises the roll centre, does moving the bottom pin up lower it?
With moving the gearbox down, and the wishbone pivot location up, do you need to move the top link up a bit also? Any help or feedback would be useful...
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Old 11-03-2013, 07:28 PM   #3270
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take the timing out.
thats a lot of timing on a 6.5 motor which should not be needed.run zero timing and gear it correctly.

also I am assuming you made sure there is no binding in the drive train
Thanks I will put it on 15 on the can as that's the lowest I can go but if I'm at 16/81 i don't understand gearing then because you guys are running 19 pinions and I'm at 16/81 should I put on a bigger main gear like the 84?
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