246LikesXray XB4 thread
12-12-2012, 11:25 PM
#301
Made by Xray, these may fit as the composite gear where made to replace the metal ones
Active Diff Steel Bevel & Satellite Gears (2+4)
Active Diff Steel Bevel & Satellite Gears (2+4)
http://www.nbhc.com.au/products.php?...b4)-(Xy335030))
But all speculation at the moment to start changing diff gears, will have to wait for all the guys who have their buggies to get some laps down and see how the stock ones go..
Last edited by Bigkev; 12-12-2012 at 11:31 PM. Reason: fixed link
12-13-2012, 12:38 AM
#304
READ THIS, IMPORTANT INFO!
I started building mine last night, and found something:
The manual says nothing about using shims to get proper mesh from the crown and pinion gears in the diff casing. There are no shims supplied either.
BUT, I had to add 0,2mm of shims in the rear diff, and 0,3mm of shims in the front diff to get perfect mesh.
That is quite a lot IMO, but not all kits will be the same so check yours while building. And check your car if you already have built it!
I had to use shims to get a tighter mesh. With the loose mesh I had in my diffs with no shims, I would not be surprised if the gears would strip quite easily.
ALL crown gears and pinions need to be shimmed in order to have perfect mesh, which is crucial for durability. I am a bit surprised that Xray chose not to include this...
Tamiya makes some very nice shim kits in 0,1 and 0,2 and 0,3mm thicknes (TAMIYA part number 53588 for the 10mm set). I bought a bunch of shim sets in various sizes some years a go, since there is always something that need to be shimmed properly
I started building mine last night, and found something:
The manual says nothing about using shims to get proper mesh from the crown and pinion gears in the diff casing. There are no shims supplied either.
BUT, I had to add 0,2mm of shims in the rear diff, and 0,3mm of shims in the front diff to get perfect mesh.
That is quite a lot IMO, but not all kits will be the same so check yours while building. And check your car if you already have built it!
I had to use shims to get a tighter mesh. With the loose mesh I had in my diffs with no shims, I would not be surprised if the gears would strip quite easily.
ALL crown gears and pinions need to be shimmed in order to have perfect mesh, which is crucial for durability. I am a bit surprised that Xray chose not to include this...
Tamiya makes some very nice shim kits in 0,1 and 0,2 and 0,3mm thicknes (TAMIYA part number 53588 for the 10mm set). I bought a bunch of shim sets in various sizes some years a go, since there is always something that need to be shimmed properly
Last edited by OleC; 12-13-2012 at 12:58 AM.
12-13-2012, 01:24 AM
#306
Tech Initiate
Onekiwi, do you fancy showing us a few close up pics of your wiring/ what space you've got in there? I notice you've mounted your receiver on the rhs of the car...
12-13-2012, 02:11 AM
#307
12-13-2012, 02:25 AM
#308
Hey the guys/girls who have already received their buggy kits, has the instruction manual been updated or did you receive a setup guide showing which screws to use for the different flex of the chassis settings?
Just keen to know.
Just keen to know.
12-13-2012, 02:42 AM
#309
My manual is not updated, so its a bit confusing to know which screws to remove for the different settings.
I havent checked my XB9 manual, but i guess you could adopt the settings there?
Edit: If you go to the above linked XB4 presentation and scroll down to the presentation of the multiflex chassis, there are three images showing the three different settings (animation).
No screws = soft
Screws along the centerline = medium
Screws along the centerline + outside in both ends = hard
I havent checked my XB9 manual, but i guess you could adopt the settings there?
Edit: If you go to the above linked XB4 presentation and scroll down to the presentation of the multiflex chassis, there are three images showing the three different settings (animation).
No screws = soft
Screws along the centerline = medium
Screws along the centerline + outside in both ends = hard
12-13-2012, 02:47 AM
#310
There is a guide in the manual and on the setup sheet that follows
Wiring, yeah I think there is tons of room as I came and still have a durango 410.
I have a hobbywing V2.1 which is one of the biggest escs and there is no probs with room, only thing is I might file off the screw hole/cable holder thats on the outside of the sidepod, that way I can rotate the esc 90° and solder the wires downwards
With the short distance to the motor from the esc I think you could use 14AWG for more flexibility and 12AWG to the batteries as either the + or - will be quite long
My motor wires went over the upper brace but Ill sort out a little better install at a later point.
Pics Ill look at getting a little later on today
heres one:
Wiring, yeah I think there is tons of room as I came and still have a durango 410.
I have a hobbywing V2.1 which is one of the biggest escs and there is no probs with room, only thing is I might file off the screw hole/cable holder thats on the outside of the sidepod, that way I can rotate the esc 90° and solder the wires downwards
With the short distance to the motor from the esc I think you could use 14AWG for more flexibility and 12AWG to the batteries as either the + or - will be quite long
My motor wires went over the upper brace but Ill sort out a little better install at a later point.
Pics Ill look at getting a little later on today
heres one:
12-13-2012, 05:18 AM
#313
are the diffs all composite? satelittes, crowngear and axles
12-13-2012, 05:29 AM
#314
