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Old 10-07-2013, 03:27 AM   #3001
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Originally Posted by GSM Storm View Post
Thanks Daniel, that was close to were I was going to start, I am going to have a run in stock with one of my son's XB4's, what spur are you using, AE drilled out ?, I have a 72T RW spur from a Schumacher, was going to make a spacer from 8mm to 6mm on the lathe tomorrow.

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Yeah, using a drilled out and flattened AE spur.
doing a spacer might be a better way. I had to do a couple as I had centering issues after drilling.
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Old 10-07-2013, 03:31 AM   #3002
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Any gearing rec. for stock spur and 10.5 and 8.5 motor? Med. track.
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:09 AM   #3003
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Those little screws holding the diff together need to be really tight, the screw is pretty tight in the plastic when it's new and can fool you into thinking they are bottomed out when they are not, get them tight ! Those will get "looser" after a couple oil changes and will tighten up easily. The real test is when you run it on the track and get the oil hot and frothy.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:21 AM   #3004
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Had my maiden run with the XB4 at the regionals this weekend. Car was dialed!


Thanks to Jader and Seth for the setup advice this weekend.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:48 AM   #3005
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where can i get the nt1 diff gears and not pay a arm and a leg for them?
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:25 AM   #3006
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Thanks for the reply's. I'm pretty sure I filled with the correct amount of oil since I used a Pharmacy scale that is accurate to 0.01g to measure the amount of oil in the diffs and followed the instruction manuals suggested weight. Although I thought that the amount of oil that the manual suggested to add seems like alot, perhaps they are overfilled. I had no parts missing when I finished building the diffs its really weird. I will have to get the diffs out of their housings and see where the differentials are leaking from I guess. Thanks.
The manual stiputing 1.32g of oil is just weird.
I used common sense and filled enough to cover the cross pins with just a bit to spare. Let it settle down a bit and see if you need to top up some more. Anything more, and they will leak out.
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:27 AM   #3007
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Noise on acceleration probalbly the rear bevel or 35T diff gear, noise on breaking probably the front gears. Check them thoroughly, one teeth could be damaged just a little... If that's the case, loosen the slipper.... (and check the gear mesh, if there is to much play, shim the gears properly).

Also check the cvd pins from the centre axles front and rear. Sometimes they force them self through the plastic drivecup. If that's the case lubricate enough with black grease ore buy aluminium ones.
Found the issue. One of the tooth in the front pinion gear is chipped off cleanly. This also roughed up some spots on the 35T bevel gear as well. Replaced both and hope all is well.

Another dumb qns. How to tell the front bulkhead from the rear? I somehow mixed both up and they look very similar.
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:32 AM   #3008
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Originally Posted by leongkc View Post
The manual stiputing 1.32g of oil is just weird.
I used common sense and filled enough to cover the cross pins with just a bit to spare. Let it settle down a bit and see if you need to top up some more. Anything more, and they will leak out.
Both methods work equally well

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Originally Posted by leongkc View Post
Found the issue. One of the tooth in the front pinion gear is chipped off cleanly. This also roughed up some spots on the 35T bevel gear as well. Replaced both and hope all is well.

Another dumb qns. How to tell the front bulkhead from the rear? I somehow mixed both up and they look very similar.
Front is angled (because of the kick-up) and rear is straight.

Also illustrated in the manual

Bent
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:41 AM   #3009
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where can i get the nt1 diff gears and not pay a arm and a leg for them?
http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...-gears-p-13534
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:06 AM   #3010
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Front is angled (because of the kick-up) and rear is straight.

Also illustrated in the manual

Bent
Hmmmm... Let me phrase my question in another way. Is the gearcase cover that holds the sway bar, interchangeable front and rear?
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:10 AM   #3011
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Hmmmm... Let me phrase my question in another way. Is the gearcase cover that holds the sway bar, interchangeable front and rear?
Yes

Bent
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:36 AM   #3012
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Originally Posted by leongkc View Post
Found the issue. One of the tooth in the front pinion gear is chipped off cleanly. This also roughed up some spots on the 35T bevel gear as well. Replaced both and hope all is well.

Another dumb qns. How to tell the front bulkhead from the rear? I somehow mixed both up and they look very similar.
Don't forget to adjust your slipper clutch, it is probably to thight.
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:40 AM   #3013
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Front is angled (because of the kick-up) and rear is straight.

Also illustrated in the manual
top of page 10

careful about rc mushroom...

If you are in the US there is a set of metal gears on ebay with a starting bid of $10. Frankly I would use the composites and just check the slop. You have to do it with metal gears too. I have composites in one diff and metal in the other, both are fine and both needed some shim love to save them.
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:47 AM   #3014
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top of page 10

careful about rc mushroom...

If you are in the US there is a set of metal gears on ebay with a starting bid of $10. Frankly I would use the composites and just check the slop. You have to do it with metal gears too. I have composites in one diff and metal in the other, both are fine and both needed some shim love to save them.
There's no need to shim the satelite/bevel gears any different then stated in the manual when running the updated 35T bevel diff gear.

This applies to the standard plastic, composite and metal gears.
They're all the same size and a direct drop in replacement

Bent
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Old 10-07-2013, 02:21 PM   #3015
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Hi
you talk about rcmushroom!! The part are less expensive than amainhobbies?
Is it a good web site to buy because you said (careful about rcmushroom)


Thx
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