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Old 10-04-2013, 09:10 PM   #2971
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^^when you only race 3 months out of the year your car stays new.. lol

You need to come to Portland and race indoor. Forget about tzll

Aluminum caps is basically a standard now and coming from xray its odd they went to the composite route. Alum hubs.. not really but would be nice. Cvd cups would solve any issues from not doing any of the simple maintenance. And plastic servo mounts should of never been used especially on a 4wd
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:32 PM   #2972
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Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
^^when you only race 3 months out of the year your car stays new.. lol

You need to come to Portland and race indoor. Forget about tzll

Aluminum caps is basically a standard now and coming from xray its odd they went to the composite route. Alum hubs.. not really but would be nice. Cvd cups would solve any issues from not doing any of the simple maintenance. And plastic servo mounts should of never been used especially on a 4wd
My car stays like new because I take good care of it. I do regular maintenance and tear it down and clean it regularly. And I haven't had any issues. Maybe people that have issues also lack proper maintenance? BTW we race off-road 7 months out of the year.

Indoor racing is for onroad. I prefer onroad anyhow so the offroad cars are already torn apart for winter.
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Old 10-05-2013, 02:46 AM   #2973
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lol I was just pointing out that the car could be worked on a bit,
thought it was one of the best, but everyone here thinks the car is perfect. XRAY FOREVER right?!
Work on what ?

We've raced this car since it came out in January for the National series, The Nationals and the Nordics on indoor hard pack clay, outdoor soft dirt and high grip astro and never have I owned a more durable and easy to wrench 1/10 buggy since I started back in -79

What are your hands on experience with this buggy ?
Or any other Xray product ?

Here's a video from a few weeks after we first got the XB4 in beginning of the year.
Watch closely at 4:52.......she hits a fence pole after a double double and just drives off........and this was with the V1 !
Any other wheeler would've needed to be swept up from the track

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


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Old 10-05-2013, 03:14 AM   #2974
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Quote:
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Work on what ?

We've raced this car since it came out in January for the National series, The Nationals and the Nordics on indoor hard pack clay, outdoor soft dirt and high grip astro and never have I owned a more durable and easy to wrench 1/10 buggy since I started back in -79

What are your hands on experience with this buggy ?
Or any other Xray product ?

Here's a video from a few weeks after we first got the XB4 in beginning of the year.
Watch closely at 4:52.......she hits a fence pole ofter a double double and just drives off........and this was with the V1 !
Any other wheeler would've needed to be swept up from the track

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Bent
Had a T4. Xray has better parts than kyosho Durango and everything else I've had. But heard that shock towers or bulkheads were breaking. Internal gears too
Xray XB4 thread-image.jpg. Saw your vids. How do u get the rear of the car to behave and not whiplash?
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Old 10-05-2013, 05:13 AM   #2975
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Had a T4. Xray has better parts than kyosho Durango and everything else I've had. But heard that shock towers or bulkheads were breaking. Internal gears too
Attachment 1118866. Saw your vids. How do u get the rear of the car to behave and not whiplash?

Don't believe everything you read or hear.

Yes the V2 bulkheads got beefed up and the 35T bevel gear had some material added for a tighter mesh on the satellite/planet gears.

These where shipped out for free to those who already had bought the V1.

After these updates along with the o-ring for the shock caps and braces for the shock towers.......the car is a tank !

The only "weak" part is really the pinion gear going into the diff bevel gear.......but people destroying these are running the slipper way to tight and hammer the throttle as well as the brakes.

However these pinion gears are cheap and only require 5 screws to be removed for a change to new ones.

I always swap them out prior to big races as this keeps the diff bevel gear fresh for months and months of racing.

Other then that I've only swapped out a few parts due to heavy crashes.

Getting the backend planted is trial and error from setup changes.

In the video posted she's running long camber rear links, inner rear lower roll center on the hubs, wide track width and long wheelbase.
10/5 in the diffs.

Stock springs and F: 2x1.6/35W R: 2x1.7/32.5W pistons/oils

Bent
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:15 AM   #2976
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FYI

>>>>>I see some XB-4 gear for cheap on Ebay<<<<

New body for I think it was $20
NT-1 gear for $10
TSR CF lipo straps $16

Just a heads up
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:39 AM   #2977
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See not sure it seems to bind
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:32 PM   #2978
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Thanks Bent. Looks like I might be getting two 4wd cars. Now if I can convince my friend to get a v4 Durango and b-max4 iii then I can test all the cars. Then sell one and get zx6 when released
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Old 10-05-2013, 02:27 PM   #2979
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I bought three when they came out so I would have parts. Two failures, one was my fault, the other fixed with the v2 part. Just sold the last nib one. As for the ALU stuff ? not so interested myself unless there is an obvious need. Getting a snapped off ball stud out of a $40 hub or a $60 bulkhead... not fun. Servo mounts... movement ? you haven't got it bolted in right, durability ? it would take a direct hard shot with a ball peen hammer to do any damage. This is a small lightweight car and the balance of durability and agility is amazing. And believe me, I break stuff. Race with focus, play for fun, this car flys either way. : ) with that said the 4w buggy class is hot right now with a bunch of great new cars, kinda hard to go wrong.
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:47 PM   #2980
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2 things:

Avid pistons are well worn the money. You can tell instantly on how well the car lands right from the get go. I did the 1.6/1.7 40f/32.5r and it was solid.

Also picked up the avid aluminium servo mount and that stopped the issue of the servo not recentering after landings. (Composite/plastic does wear out with normal use so this was a great upgrade)
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Old 10-05-2013, 10:18 PM   #2981
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Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
^^when you only race 3 months out of the year your car stays new.. lol

You need to come to Portland and race indoor. Forget about tzll

Aluminum caps is basically a standard now and coming from xray its odd they went to the composite route. Alum hubs.. not really but would be nice. Cvd cups would solve any issues from not doing any of the simple maintenance. And plastic servo mounts should of never been used especially on a 4wd
Call me strange...
I bought the alu shocks caps and went back to the composite.

I actually preferred the composite.
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:24 AM   #2982
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Hi all
Does someone have the gearing to run a 17.5 turn motor using blinky mode , no boost or turbo.

Regards
Gary
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:47 AM   #2983
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Been using 31/69 on mine with an LRP X20 17.5 but on a 10 min test flight today it came off at 80c as I had the 37.5 timing insert in there (Esc is an LRP Flow Works on Blinky mode) so may tone that down and perhaps slap a fan in behind the motor with some rtv silicone (got a couple of spare Tornado Fans somewhere)

Am yet to get it to the track (hoping next friday!)
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Old 10-06-2013, 02:14 AM   #2984
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Hey Gary, Daniel Tan here. For the qld states up here in Townsville earlier this year I was at 30/69 as well with a reedy mach2 @ 40 deg timing. ~75 deg C. viper vtx10r esc. no fan.
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Old 10-06-2013, 07:21 AM   #2985
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(Composite/plastic does wear out with normal use so this was a great upgrade)
maybe hundreths of millimeters where it is designed to pivot (arms) but there is no way a solid servo mount can wear at all. Alu is total overkill bling in that situation. Just adding uneccassary weight. To each his own.
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