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Old 09-30-2013, 01:16 PM   #2926
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...I'm looking for an alternative to the factory aluminum bleeder caps, $80 for two sets!? A completely new set of TLR 22 2.0 shocks with machined bushings, newer style rings, aluminum bleeder caps, coated shafts and machined pistons is only $100...and I can grip them. Sometimes I feel I may "oval" the Xray shock bodies when I am squeezing them while trying to tighten the plastic cap down. And yes, they are the same size/length!
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:40 PM   #2927
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Thanks. I just checked them out. Have you tried any of there chassis trays?
I used to run his Durango one and it was fine.

I currently just run the skid though. No tray.
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:48 PM   #2928
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
...I'm looking for an alternative to the factory aluminum bleeder caps, $80 for two sets!? A completely new set of TLR 22 2.0 shocks with machined bushings, newer style rings, aluminum bleeder caps, coated shafts and machined pistons is only $100...and I can grip them. Sometimes I feel I may "oval" the Xray shock bodies when I am squeezing them while trying to tighten the plastic cap down. And yes, they are the same size/length!
What's wrong with the stock plastic caps?
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:46 PM   #2929
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@ Seth - my problem with plastic caps is that I've always found that the bleeder screw eventually strips/bottoms out and leaks air into the shock.

Maybe I was spoiled with my TLR 22 - I really liked the ability to hold the shock body securely while I tightened the cap, that hex shape & hex tool - worth every penny! The Xray shock bodies are really thin alum and I'm afraid I'll bend and damage one of them one of the days - albeit, they are super light weight.

Don't get me wrong, I love my XB4 - the thing is a beast on the track, fast & stable. There are simply one or two items I'd change if I could. For the price of the kit, I was hoping for a little more - machined shock bits/pistons & alum bleeder caps.
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:09 PM   #2930
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just got the car last week, assambled went to our first local club race in newly finished track, TQ, A-main 1st and track record ! awesome car!

sorry for bad pic quality.





Nice work.....
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:52 PM   #2931
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@ Seth - my problem with plastic caps is that I've always found that the bleeder screw eventually strips/bottoms out and leaks air into the shock.

Maybe I was spoiled with my TLR 22 - I really liked the ability to hold the shock body securely while I tightened the cap, that hex shape & hex tool - worth every penny! The Xray shock bodies are really thin alum and I'm afraid I'll bend and damage one of them one of the days - albeit, they are super light weight.

Don't get me wrong, I love my XB4 - the thing is a beast on the track, fast & stable. There are simply one or two items I'd change if I could. For the price of the kit, I was hoping for a little more - machined shock bits/pistons & alum bleeder caps.
You shouldn't need to crank down the screws with the plastic caps, just snug and you're fine. It's the threads that create the seal and not the screw head. The tool like on the 22 is really nice, although with the o-ring you should be able to just tighten it down by hand and be fine, no need to crank it on there.
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:55 PM   #2932
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HeavyD99 - There is no reason to clamp down on them with anything. Tighten them hand tight and they will be fine. There are several options if they leak from the threads around the bodies. Mine have never leaked but you could use a small amount of green slime on the threads or the Xray oring. If you are stripping the bleed screw its because you are over tightening them.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:02 PM   #2933
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HeavyD99 - There is no reason to clamp down on them with anything. Tighten them hand tight and they will be fine. There are several options if they leak from the threads around the bodies. Mine have never leaked but you could use a small amount of green slime on the threads or the Xray oring. If you are stripping the bleed screw its because you are over tightening them.
Ya, ya I get it - I wasn't actually using any tools, just man hands! I hand tighten the caps, tricky with oil on my hands The bleeder screw will eventually strip - it's plastic, it happens. Like I said, the TLR's spoiled me.

On another topic - anyone know when Avid will have those 1.5 + 1.1 pistons in stock again?
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:09 PM   #2934
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Ya, ya I get it - I wasn't actually using any tools, just man hands! I hand tighten the caps, tricky with oil on my hands The bleeder screw will eventually strip - it's plastic, it happens. Like I said, the TLR's spoiled me.
Then I don't know what to say. I always wrap the body in a clean microfiber cloth. Helps to grip the body to keep it from spinning. The plastic caps are cheap in comparison to the aluminum ones. I agree the aluminum ones are ridiculously priced. IMO the shocks leave a little to be desired. They have too much play in them side to side. Maybe we can get factory one or another company to make better bushings. I haven't tried the avid pistons yet to see how they fit. Planned on it for next season though.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:57 PM   #2935
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The avid pistons are awesome, they have a really good fit and feel awesome on the track.
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:25 PM   #2936
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im done with my xb4 building..got the box 5 months ago but didnt have time to cut the seal..so i heard a lot about the v2 upgrade...how can i get those parts and should i wait for the v2 diff gears before i run the car or it will be fine i i run stock gears for now?..im a bit affraid..i put everything just by the book..didnt use shims like it was said on their web site..thx for any help/hints have a nice tuesday!
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:48 PM   #2937
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im done with my xb4 building..got the box 5 months ago but didnt have time to cut the seal..so i heard a lot about the v2 upgrade...how can i get those parts and should i wait for the v2 diff gears before i run the car or it will be fine i i run stock gears for now?..im a bit affraid..i put everything just by the book..didnt use shims like it was said on their web site..thx for any help/hints have a nice tuesday!
I think you should be fine for now. Run the original gears. You will probably be doing some tuning with different diff oils anyways, so when you get your new diff gears just drop them in when changing oil or servicing diff. I didn't have any shims for my diffs either but I hear guys mentioning them. ??? Just don't over fill the diff. I didn't even weigh my diffs when filling them. I just left room for oil expansion. My biggest problem I have is breaking wing mounts and wings. That could be a personal problem such as bad driving. lol Your going to love the car!
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:03 PM   #2938
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What is a good gearing combo for a Reedy 6.5?
also what is a good ride height?

If I were you I would start with a 18 or 19 pinion. I currently run a 20 with a 9.5 tekin. Just watch your temp. If you push the car and your temps are cool go up on your pinion a toot or 2. What I did is i checked temps after 3 mins of hard driving. I felt it was cool so I drove it for 3 more mins and I felt the temp again. Motor was hot but not to hot so I decided to stay with 20 for now. I am running a ride height of 22mm all the way around. I run - 1 chamber all the way around, 0 degree of toe in the front and 3degree of toe in the rear.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:17 PM   #2939
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
@ Seth - my problem with plastic caps is that I've always found that the bleeder screw eventually strips/bottoms out and leaks air into the shock.

Maybe I was spoiled with my TLR 22 - I really liked the ability to hold the shock body securely while I tightened the cap, that hex shape & hex tool - worth every penny! The Xray shock bodies are really thin alum and I'm afraid I'll bend and damage one of them one of the days - albeit, they are super light weight.

Don't get me wrong, I love my XB4 - the thing is a beast on the track, fast & stable. There are simply one or two items I'd change if I could. For the price of the kit, I was hoping for a little more - machined shock bits/pistons & alum bleeder caps.
Heavy D ,
I'm with you on the shocks. I really don't care for them either. I am actually thinking of running losi shocks too. I know I will be tuning with losi springs. The guys are right. Everything on them should be hand tight. On the bleeder caps screw just use your index and thumb to snug up. I would of gladly paid more for the car to be fitted with losi style shocks. Over all though I m glad I didn't wait for the new losi 4x4. We have an awesome wheeler. I will be fitting my car with losi's new 4x4 shocks though. That is if they fit of course.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:19 PM   #2940
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I emailed exotek the other day asking if they considered making an aluminum servo mount.. they told me to check out the website on Wednesday... hooray#!!!
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