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Old 09-25-2013, 04:24 PM   #2866
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i run for aka. so the price of a set of any other wheel is almost triple for me. even at my discount xray wheels is almost twice the cost of aka wheels. i have regionals coming up. in wheels alone for 2wd and 4wd i have close to 50 sets. you do the math. that plus what happens if xray or DE racing is out of stock? plus let say youre at a race and need an emergency set of wheels. im sure youll have a lot better luck finding a set of proline, aka or JC wheels instead of durango, DE or xray wheels.
You might save by running for aka but time is money and if you do the math....you spend a ton of time modifying 50 sets of wheels. For those who aren't getting wheels cheap.... just buying wheels that fit is a pretty good option.
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:29 PM   #2867
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You might save by running for aka but time is money and if you do the math....you spend a ton of time modifying 50 sets of wheels. For those who aren't getting wheels cheap.... just buying wheels that fit is a pretty good option.
Who said anything about modifying wheels? Once you do the conversion you don't have to modify anything
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:52 PM   #2868
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Looks like the ujoint shaft is bent. part#36 5440
swap out the CENTRAL SHAFT UNIVERSAL JOINT to see if thats the cure
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:09 PM   #2869
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Mine 's on it way!!! What upgrades are advised for no track part support.
Just in case.
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:18 PM   #2870
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I came from a ZX5 so I checked that long ago and chose to use Xray wheels. They are no harder to find than anything else in the age of internet shopping and free shipping. As for cost.... even if I was sponsored by a wheel mfg I still would use stock wheels. I took over 100 sets to nats bitd so I learned long ago to suck it up like a man when it comes to tires. If you get a good deal and can save enough to justify buying and modifying hexes then go ahead. You should talk Mark into making Xray wheels.
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:29 PM   #2871
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the only problem is the stock pin in our axles wont fit in the slot on the TLR hubs. .

Cool, thanks
What happens if you don't dremel the slot and use the TLR pin? obviously it will be loose through the driveshaft, but the hub will keep the pin in place. Or do you think that it will eventually snap the pin?
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:14 PM   #2872
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Who said anything about modifying wheels? Once you do the conversion you don't have to modify anything
Nevermind... I thought you said something else. So, do the hexes work with most common wheels then? That's a pretty good fix if so.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:40 PM   #2873
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Looks like the ujoint shaft is bent. part#36 5440
if you take the plastic cover off the joint I bet the pin has started to push through it and actually come out of one of the holes of the outer CVA. it seems to be moving in the video and it may be causing the binding you are feeling. They say that if there isn't enough grease this will happen. Unfortunately I had it happen to a new one after just a couple runs and there was plenty of grease. Either get the CVA coupler with the set screw, and possibly the flat pin that goes in there or you can get the Exotek CVA covers for all the joints of the car.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:58 PM   #2874
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You should talk Mark into making Xray wheels.
Way ahead of you. I'm good friends with Jason Ruona as well. None have any intent to make 14mm wheels. Eventually someone will come out with a conversion. Avid maybe. If every tire company follows suit on what AKA just did with their new bead. The xray wheels won't be able to be used. Unless xray changes their wheel design. This conversion cost 25-35 bucks in parts and to me it's way less of a headache then to be limited to only xray wheels.
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:00 PM   #2875
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Cool, thanks
What happens if you don't dremel the slot and use the TLR pin? obviously it will be loose through the driveshaft, but the hub will keep the pin in place. Or do you think that it will eventually snap the pin?
The tlr pin looks like crap. It looks like the old b4 rear pins. On top of that it looks weak, it has alot of play in the axle. Once you put the power down its only a matter of time till they snap.
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:01 PM   #2876
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Nevermind... I thought you said something else. So, do the hexes work with most common wheels then? That's a pretty good fix if so.
Yes. I used aka kyosho 4wd front and aka kyosho/ae rears.
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:26 PM   #2877
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Are you guys cutting the 1.5mm off the front of the top deck/brace per V2 instructions? If not, are you having any issues? I assume it's due to the V2 bulkhead being thicker and making the brace a tighter fit. I just now noticed you were suppose to cut it but I didn't and it installed just fine during the build.

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to me it's way less of a headache then to be limited to only xray wheels.
Durango wheels work and are made by other companies.... such as DE Racing. Cheap!
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:32 PM   #2878
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Is there a 2014 version of this car coming soon? Getting ready to buy a 4wd for the indoor winter race season and just wondering if there are any updates coming. Would hate to buy and then 2 weeks later the new version is released. Xray seems to have a pretty solid pattern of yearly updates on their popular cars.

So... Anyone know anything?
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:34 PM   #2879
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if you take the plastic cover off the joint I bet the pin has started to push through it and actually come out of one of the holes of the outer CVA. it seems to be moving in the video and it may be causing the binding you are feeling. They say that if there isn't enough grease this will happen. Unfortunately I had it happen to a new one after just a couple runs and there was plenty of grease. Either get the CVA coupler with the set screw, and possibly the flat pin that goes in there or you can get the Exotek CVA covers for all the joints of the car.
It's another poster having issues. My car hasn't been ran yet BUT I already plan on ALL of the Exotek options for this car. Aluminum CVA covers, battery thumb screws and carbon straps, and the aluminum steering rack.
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:59 PM   #2880
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Originally Posted by ImageX View Post
Are you guys cutting the 1.5mm off the front of the top deck/brace per V2 instructions? If not, are you having any issues? I assume it's due to the V2 bulkhead being thicker and making the brace a tighter fit. I just now noticed you were suppose to cut it but I didn't and it installed just fine during the build.
You only need to trim the top deck if you have a V1 top deck and a V2 bulkhead IIRC...
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