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Old 08-26-2013, 06:41 AM   #2626
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Originally Posted by kosmickid View Post
I'd be interested to know, those who have had the Durango DEx410 before your XB4's, how does the Xray compare in terms of strength, space and ease of maintenance?

I'm thinking of switching over.
I now have 2 race days on the XB4 compared to the DEX410v3. I did not have durability issues with either, so no help there. Durango is very aggressive to the point of being twitchy and loose on my local track. Was never able to calm it down enough that it was easy to drive. The XB4 is very easy to drive out of the box. Still has plenty of steering, but is much more planted and more forgiving.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:45 AM   #2627
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Thank you for the feedback guys, your comments align with how I've felt about the DEX410 as in being very aggressive/twitchy and constant failures or issues after every Heat. More likely now I'm going to go for the XB4 as I'm by no means an expert so I need a tamer buggy and something which is going to give me track time and not constantly spend time fixing. I race on a High grip Astro track which does take its toll on the cars.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:14 AM   #2628
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I've never owned the durango and have no plans to. But I race with guys who do run them. If they finish a race it's a pretty big deal. We have a few triples that are pretty difficult to land and if you don't land them right you chance breaking your car. The durango guys never even try to do them. I have no issues or reservations about tossing my car over them. I'm perfectly confident that my car wont break even if I case the jump, which I have done several times.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:56 AM   #2629
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I really don't know where you guys are getting your info from but the 410 is one of the most robust cars there is... That was my car as a noob and man I crashed. I did break a few things , most of that to do with how I was driving NOT the quality of the car AT ALL!! (maybe and exception with the ball cups)

Any car will break if you don't land jumps properly or hit curbs etc.

I did find the 410 quite aggresive and not really to MY liking so I did swap over to the XB4
The XB4 I find is robust but am seeing a tendence to break a few rear hubs also ball cups ripped out or broken and do a bearing or two.
This is considering that I have become a bit of a better driver as well.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:35 AM   #2630
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My car suddenly started clicking when accelerating when I ran it today. When I hold the spur gear and the left back wheel, I can enforce the clicks by forcing the right back wheel around (not using excessive force). This do not happen at the front diff.

When I opened the back diff, I found no error. Maybe the plastic cover holding the diff in place has expanded a little as the metal gears seem fine? Should I try shimming the back diff?

Last edited by coretex; 08-26-2013 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 08-26-2013, 12:39 PM   #2631
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My car suddenly started clicking when accelerating when I ran it today. When I hold the spur gear and the left back wheel, I can enforce the clicks by forcing the right back wheel around (not using excessive force). This do not happen at the front diff.

When I opened the back diff, I found no error. Maybe the plastic cover holding the diff in place has expanded a little as the metal gears seem fine? Should I try shimming the back diff?
Do you have the metal diff gears in the rear housing or the stock plastic ones? I see you said "metal gears seem fine". When my stock plastic gears finally gave up it did exactly as you described and it wasn't obvious when looking at them.
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:52 PM   #2632
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Originally Posted by coretex View Post
My car suddenly started clicking when accelerating when I ran it today. When I hold the spur gear and the left back wheel, I can enforce the clicks by forcing the right back wheel around (not using excessive force). This do not happen at the front diff.

When I opened the back diff, I found no error. Maybe the plastic cover holding the diff in place has expanded a little as the metal gears seem fine? Should I try shimming the back diff?
Check the ring and pinon gear.

On mine the pinion gear inside the diff part number 365114 was chipped after I replaced it and part number 364935 the clicking sound was gone

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Old 08-26-2013, 02:13 PM   #2633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coretex View Post
My car suddenly started clicking when accelerating when I ran it today. When I hold the spur gear and the left back wheel, I can enforce the clicks by forcing the right back wheel around (not using excessive force). This do not happen at the front diff.

When I opened the back diff, I found no error. Maybe the plastic cover holding the diff in place has expanded a little as the metal gears seem fine? Should I try shimming the back diff?
Similar to my experience. I did find evidence of the gears skipping (little pieces of plastic in the diff fluid and the gears were not like new). In my case I replaced that gear set with metal gears and on the other diff I simply shimmed it up, still running that original plastic v1 gears in that diff.
Yea, try shimming, shouldn't take much.
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:38 AM   #2634
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for the record, I do not have plastic gears.
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:17 AM   #2635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coretex View Post
My car suddenly started clicking when accelerating when I ran it today. When I hold the spur gear and the left back wheel, I can enforce the clicks by forcing the right back wheel around (not using excessive force). This do not happen at the front diff.

When I opened the back diff, I found no error. Maybe the plastic cover holding the diff in place has expanded a little as the metal gears seem fine? Should I try shimming the back diff?
Argh...I just wrote a huge reply based on the clicking occurring without power/force. Then I just retread your post and see that you DID use a forced spin by holding the SPUR and wheel. If this produces a clicking then, YES, it is the diff slipping. With gear diff, that means you've got eithe worn gears and/or need to shim.


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Last edited by CaptainGizmo; 08-27-2013 at 08:24 AM. Reason: Incorrect advice.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:32 AM   #2636
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Default K1 vs. XB4

These XB4's must be pretty darn good because no one is selling one in the for sale section!

I have a dilema, get a K1 or an XB4. (Searching this thread for "K1" is too short a word, LOL). I just sold my 511 and need something that is tough and handles clay - there will be some carpet racing, but mostly clay. I don't mind ball diffs or belts, but saw an XB4 on the clay last week and it was silent and ran really well - but I hate leaking diffs. I race at a Schumacher supported track, so there is a ton of set up help and parts - but this XB4 looks so good.

What to do, what to do....
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:53 AM   #2637
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If you build xray gear diffs correctly, they will hardly ever leak. I have never had any of mine leak (4 xrays, over 2 years, all with nearly identical gear diffs). I have one diff in my T3'12 that I built over 2 years ago with 1000 cst and I have never rebuilt it. Still buttery smooth and it has never leaked.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:08 AM   #2638
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How do I shim the diff exactly? Could somebody please tell me where/which gear to shim?
Sorry for all the work gizmo, but I think it might help others
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:12 AM   #2639
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Default xray xb4

Hey guys just looking for a little help. I just recently purchased and built my xb4 and did some practice runs to find a good setup. It seems the shocks are always leaking I've taken them apart a few times to find the problem and have had no luck. The oil leaks around the upper cap .don't know if I am doing something wrong or what. wry
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:25 AM   #2640
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Hey guys just looking for a little help. I just recently purchased and built my xb4 and did some practice runs to find a good setup. It seems the shocks are always leaking I've taken them apart a few times to find the problem and have had no luck. The oil leaks around the upper cap .don't know if I am doing something wrong or what. wry
Xray released these to address the problem

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...p?prod_id=4546

When I built mine before they came out with their fix I used some o-rings from my TRF201 shocks of the same size, mine haven't leaked a drop.. Should be easy enough to come up with some at your local hobby shop.
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