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Old 06-15-2013, 07:41 PM   #2386
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I think this is why you have the option to use the -.75 and +.75 wheel hexes if you need 10 degrees of toe in total on the rear. I can't imagine a time when you would but yes your calculations are correct.

You can have anti squat and track width options as a combo but you can only change the roll centre by .5 if you were changing the anti squat by .5. Just look at the 9 dot blocks on the setup sheet and it all makes sense. It's still got more adjustments than most cars so I think this is not really a down side to the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace View Post
Looking for some clarification regarding the eccentric bushings....

From looking at the charts am i correct in my thinking that not all combinations are possible.. Could you folks confirm my thinking with some of my observations below?

For instance:
1) Only 2 degrees of anti squat will allow you to be able to change to all 3 different roll center positions. (You cannot have 1,3 or 4 degrees of anti squat and have roll center options its fixed)

2) Similarly only 3 degrees of rear toe will allow u to be able to change to all 3 track width options. (you cannot have 1,2,4 or 5 degrees of rear toe and have track width changes)

3)A rear toe setting of 5 degrees has a fixed track width of 0mm
4)A rear toe setting of 4 degrees has 2 track width options of +.75mm or -.75mm

In other words outside of 2 degree anti squat and 3 degrees of rear toe, you can not get all tuning options for roll center and track width.



I think i have it down but after trying to explain it at the track the other night lol i had started to question if i was right. The table is a bit of a mind F%@# when you pull it out fast and try to explain it between a qualifier


I think i have clarified this for my self after typing this all out but ill post anyway incase anyone else is overwhelmed at looking at the chart
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Old 06-16-2013, 12:23 AM   #2387
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Originally Posted by Boz View Post
Refresh....

What spur gear are you guys modifying when running a 17.5T?
Boz. Kimbrough 69T b4 spur, ae pads. get a reamer and do it slowly so you dont lopside it. You need to take off about 1mm.

(or centre on a drill press and do it the easy way)

I geared at 69/30 with a reedy mk2 17.5. won qld stock titles with this and a modified version of your setup

I'll take a photo later tonight.
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Old 06-16-2013, 04:54 AM   #2388
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Thanks zoom
Ya not a negative. Just trying to wrap my head around it all.

So glad I don't require 10*30$ blocks to make adjustments lol
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Old 06-16-2013, 04:58 PM   #2389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
Boz. Kimbrough 69T b4 spur, ae pads. get a reamer and do it slowly so you dont lopside it. You need to take off about 1mm.

(or centre on a drill press and do it the easy way)

I geared at 69/30 with a reedy mk2 17.5. won qld stock titles with this and a modified version of your setup

I'll take a photo later tonight.
Did you crank up the timing on the end bell any?

Curious whether it's better to leave the timing alone for max torque and lower the FDR than vice versa.
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:12 PM   #2390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
Boz. Kimbrough 69T b4 spur, ae pads. get a reamer and do it slowly so you dont lopside it. You need to take off about 1mm.

(or centre on a drill press and do it the easy way)

I geared at 69/30 with a reedy mk2 17.5. won qld stock titles with this and a modified version of your setup

I'll take a photo later tonight.

Thanks for the spur info.

Clad that you liked the setup. Z00M and I worked on that one for a few weeks. We have a new one now for low traction track. A little fine tuning to do still. Gee its easy to drive if you don't mind a little understeer. Here are my lap times from Friday Night, temp was about 10deg (bloody cold).

http://www.wcmrc.asn.au/Offroad/inde...in_Race_5.html
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:59 PM   #2391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hars View Post
Did you crank up the timing on the end bell any?

Curious whether it's better to leave the timing alone for max torque and lower the FDR than vice versa.

35-38 deg on these reedys give me 60-70deg. 40 gives me 80 deg for some reason.

The main thing to remember in 17.5 is that you want your corner speed as high as possible and you want to slow down as little as possible. If your track doesn't have many (or any) tight 180s, having a higher timing can pay off, if you can keep a tight line while holding corner speed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz View Post
Thanks for the spur info.

Clad that you liked the setup. Z00M and I worked on that one for a few weeks. We have a new one now for low traction track. A little fine tuning to do still. Gee its easy to drive if you don't mind a little understeer. Here are my lap times from Friday Night, temp was about 10deg (bloody cold).

http://www.wcmrc.asn.au/Offroad/inde...in_Race_5.html
Forgot to mention - for Kimbrough spurs, you will need to remove the ridge of material around the centre on one side - it makes the spur a little thick and you have to squeeze the pin in.

Still using the swaybars? I found the buggy to handle a lot better on low traction with the swaybars removed.
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:08 PM   #2392
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here


DSCF3009 by silvalis, on Flickr

Dodgy lopsided ream on the left (was fine for clubbies), good ones on the middle and right


DSCF3010 by silvalis, on Flickr

Chopped material on the left. Only did one side.
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:10 PM   #2393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz View Post
Thanks for the spur info.

Clad that you liked the setup. Z00M and I worked on that one for a few weeks. We have a new one now for low traction track. A little fine tuning to do still. Gee its easy to drive if you don't mind a little understeer. Here are my lap times from Friday Night, temp was about 10deg (bloody cold).

http://www.wcmrc.asn.au/Offroad/inde...in_Race_5.html
hey Boz,

I thought you should of put this one up ...http://www.wcmrc.asn.au/Offroad/inde..._2_Race_5.html
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Old 06-16-2013, 11:36 PM   #2394
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I'm glad you posted that result.

I was afraid that you were going to post the link to a race result where you actually beat me.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:01 AM   #2395
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@silvalis
I tried your shock and diff setups on a 6.5 boosted slightly. It was the fastest and most consistent I have been with my car thus! Only difference was the front and rear roll centers, I had different blocks on and 0.75 hubs on rear and stock on front. And avid pistons.
Going to stick with your spring combo and 7 7 FR on diffs for now . I also put less rear droop and more on the front than that sheet. Its so much easier for me to land front wheel first on my track now and the added front droop adds a bit of understeer feels almost like a 1/8 nitro buggy .
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:09 AM   #2396
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Yeah, my droop is a bit messed up. Was meaning to fix it, but it's working right now and I didn't want to change it.

Although I noticed one of my front shocks has let all of it's oil out again. Might have to get some metal caps...
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:29 AM   #2397
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Boz has your set up from Jan that you have posted changed much to now? Moving from a DEX410 to an XB4 in the next week or so for buggy stock and am wondering where to start setup wise. Best lap I have had in the Durango was a 31.1 I think, so it's not working for me! (Even worse when wheels fall off!)
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:32 AM   #2398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
Boz has your set up from Jan that you have posted changed much to now? Moving from a DEX410 to an XB4 in the next week or so for buggy stock and am wondering where to start setup wise. Best lap I have had in the Durango was a 31.1 I think, so it's not working for me! (Even worse when wheels fall off!)
Yes it has.

Build your kit as per instructions and I would change the following things.

7,000 diff oil front and rear

3mm spacer in front shock will equal about +4mm of droop when using the inner arm hole and ballend is screwed all the way up. Unscrew for more droop if required.

2mm spacer in rear shock will equal about +4mm of droop when using the inner arm hole and ballend is screwed all the way up. Unscrew for more droop if required.

Use inner holes on arms for mounting the shocks.

Ride height should be 20mm front and rear.

Glue on some Proline Suburbs. (That's the icing on the cake for our track)
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:43 AM   #2399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
Yeah, my droop is a bit messed up. Was meaning to fix it, but it's working right now and I didn't want to change it.

Although I noticed one of my front shocks has let all of it's oil out again. Might have to get some metal caps...
Yeah I got them aluminums and never looked back. I used some simichrome polish on the shock shafts and they are butter now. For droop I ran 1 mm downstop front and 4 mm downstop in rear. It has enough on power steer for a super fast sweeper and can still break it loose on tight hairpins with a dab of brakes . Also removed the metal diff gears and used v2 upgrades did not notice much of a difference though.
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Old 06-17-2013, 03:44 PM   #2400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamison R View Post
Ready to go except for the missing servo saver arm that was not in the kit. I really wanna drive this car.

and turn the shock caps around on the front or they will get impacted with dirt. Like the guy from the mens wearhouse... Your'e gonna love it.
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