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Old 04-26-2013, 12:01 PM   #2176
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5/3 diffs, 8.5t
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:32 PM   #2177
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Ok so, got a bit of a story.

Ran my car box stock for 5 batteries on a high grip track and no problems.

Did a lot of research before buying this car so I purchased the alloy gears from NT1 (internal spiders) and they lasted 2 minutes on my home (low grip) track and noticed the rear wheels locking up. Pulled the rear diff down to find the alloy gears destroyed, all of them missing some teeth and the plastic crown and pinion also missing a tooth.

The alloy gears were actually worse off than the plastic, someone tells me this is because you have to run the alloy cross pins with alloy gears to eliminate flex?

What are people doing to stop diff failures? Crown/pinion and internals?
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:32 PM   #2178
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I am back on the plastic spider gears now as its all i got, but a little concerned
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:39 PM   #2179
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Originally Posted by Jarred King View Post
Ok so, got a bit of a story.

Ran my car box stock for 5 batteries on a high grip track and no problems.

Did a lot of research before buying this car so I purchased the alloy gears from NT1 (internal spiders) and they lasted 2 minutes on my home (low grip) track and noticed the rear wheels locking up. Pulled the rear diff down to find the alloy gears destroyed, all of them missing some teeth and the plastic crown and pinion also missing a tooth.

The alloy gears were actually worse off than the plastic, someone tells me this is because you have to run the alloy cross pins with alloy gears to eliminate flex?

What are people doing to stop diff failures? Crown/pinion and internals?
I'm running the plastic stuff with no issues at all. You running your slipper tight?
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:41 PM   #2180
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well i did go off the xray tip which was to stay within the range of 5.5 - 6.1mm ?

so i went in the middle somewhere, but when the car is on the bench with all four wheels you cannot turn the slipper without it spinning the wheels. So it was a little tight, ive backed it off a half a turn so hopefully that will help.
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:02 PM   #2181
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I would loosen it until it slips and then tighten it a little at a time. If the slipper is too tight its going to send all the shock of the drivetrain straight to the diff gears and eventually they will fail. The slipper is supposed to slip some.
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:20 PM   #2182
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Sorry Jarred, you have to be doing something wrong. We ran ours at the Nationals all practice and race meet with out any troubles (plastic gear).

The slipper figures you mentioned are the incorrect ones. Xray has undated the setting to 5.5mm to 6.5mm on the website. If you have a newer kit I sure that there was a piece of paper stapled to the slipper bag and the update bag had a bit paper in it to about the settings.


I run mine closer to 6.5mm on a slippery track.
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:50 PM   #2183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarred King View Post
well i did go off the xray tip which was to stay within the range of 5.5 - 6.1mm ?

so i went in the middle somewhere, but when the car is on the bench with all four wheels you cannot turn the slipper without it spinning the wheels. So it was a little tight, ive backed it off a half a turn so hopefully that will help.
Jarred the slipper needs to be set as per the updated instruction sheet, I run mine at 6.2 mm and the car is sweet. Also follow all instructions on building the diffs and constantly check them very second meet to make sure there is no damage to the gears and it will be good.. For set up help please visit www.teamxray.com and go to the set up sheets
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:29 AM   #2184
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I run my slipper at 6.5mm. Still on all kit gears, run every week since Christmas.

Get some under-Lipo weight added. I've been running 40g under each Lipo, and another 10g in each triangle. Just last night been given some lead flashing weights to go under each Lipo, 62g each side, so can remove all the other, and run these slim lead weights. Back end is super planted now, mega rear grip.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:49 PM   #2185
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Default Shock Cap O'rings

Hi Guy’s

Need some help please.
12 x 1 mm O’ring's for the shock caps.

Can some please explain or post a pic’s on how they fit Please.
As they don't seem to fit inside the shock cap O/D 100%.......


Thanks
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:51 AM   #2186
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Does anyone know where I can get diff outdrives from?
Amain are out of stock, I broke one on Sunday, wasn't even a big crash, just a bit of an awkward landing.
Is there a different one that will fit?

The part number is XRA364960
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:51 AM   #2187
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double post
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Old 04-29-2013, 06:29 AM   #2188
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Where can I find these super slim weights? I see standard stick ons, but nothing describing thin.

Thanks

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Old 04-29-2013, 12:41 PM   #2189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BennyBagems View Post
Does anyone know where I can get diff outdrives from?
Amain are out of stock, I broke one on Sunday, wasn't even a big crash, just a bit of an awkward landing.
Is there a different one that will fit?

The part number is XRA364960
Benny did you use shims/orings for up/down-stop travel ?
If you do how many shims/oring you used?
Im still readingof XB4 issues , and still closer not buying it.
I realy like xray products, but dex410 seems to be not soe problematic.
I read on Xray forums they are working on new stronger outdrives.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:00 PM   #2190
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There is 3 of us a my local track and none have broke a outdrive. I like the durango also that i drove but i feel you need some hop ups to make it prefect i see them loose the link or ball cups all the the time. Either car is a good but i would still get the xb4 if i was doing it again. Also look into the caster they seem like a nice car at a good price i almost ordered one just liked the xb4 a little better
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