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Old 04-15-2013, 05:46 PM   #2131
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My Stock 17.5 XB4
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:21 PM   #2132
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http://www.petitrc.com/setup/xray/se...ctronicsSetup/
There are many Orion escs in those pictures.

You can also have more space by removing the plastic cover around the capacitors and shrink wrapping them after that.

You can re-solder your wires so that the wires go down from the esc. That way you can use the wire retainer more easily.
Thank you, that is exactly what i needed to see... Much appreciated!
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:21 PM   #2133
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Using the new Ralls Racing rear tower, with extra wide camber link holes, which really helps with the camber change as the car rolls. Rear grip is far more than with the stock tower.

I've also added 40g weight under each lipo.
Shorten the link for less camber change ?
The 80g of weight I think is helping a bit.
Why give up all that acceleration and quickness ?
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:07 AM   #2134
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Shorten the link for less camber change ?
The 80g of weight I think is helping a bit.
Why give up all that acceleration and quickness ?
The kit towers offer so little difference in adjustments from the three ballstud holes. The link and arm remain more or less parallel. The car just over rotates and had a loose rear on a slippy surface. We race indoors in winter on polished rubber or wood floors, with some bits of carpet. Moving to the outer camber link hole on the new towers has helped control the rear. The arm and top-links are no longer parallel, giving more initial turn rear grip, and controls the over rotation and spin outs i was getting. Previously tried all kit roll centre options, top link lengths, camber, anti-squat, toe, diff oil combos and shock/spring positions and settings, chassis flex, etc. This tower change has helped the most.

Acceleration and quickness is no good if you can't put any grip down and just spin out all the time on the rear. The car is just as quick and nimble with the added weight, but the rear grip is lots higher now, so of course i can go faster.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:35 AM   #2135
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Default XB4 Ball Differentials?

SO whats the go with ball diffs for this amazing car? on the setup sheets it has a ball diff option so I was just wondering if anyone has any information as to when they will become avalable?

Cheers.
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:20 AM   #2136
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Originally Posted by neallewis View Post
Moving to the outer camber link hole on the new towers has helped control the rear. The arm and top-links are no longer parallel, giving more initial turn rear grip, and controls the over rotation and spin outs i was getting.
You say outer hole and no longer parallel. So you moved the link out and down ? Shortened the link and lowered the ball for more camber change ? Thanks for sharing, I'm just trying to get a clear idea of what you did. Still don't like the idea of adding 5% extra weight.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:03 AM   #2137
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You say outer hole and no longer parallel. So you moved the link out and down ? Shortened the link and lowered the ball for more camber change ? Thanks for sharing, I'm just trying to get a clear idea of what you did. Still don't like the idea of adding 5% extra weight.

I'm using this rear tower. Not used the front as yet, as the kit camber holes are fine at the front.


I'm using the outer middle hold, which shortens the upper link. At the hub end, i'm on the outer/longest link setting. when the wishbones and driveshafts are level, the upper link is angled down from the hub to the inner ballstud. This seems to lock in the rear end and calm the over rotation far more than any other setting I've tried. I could not get the same effect with any of the kit ball stud holes on the tower. They just don't seem to move or change the ball position enough to make a handling difference.

Is 80g 5% of the total weight? I'll have to get my scales out to check. the extra weight doesn't bother me though. There is plenty of power available with my 6.5 Tekin gen 2, and bags more rear grip with the under lipo weight.

It may change when I hit the Grass and Astro tracks as the weather improves. I've had one meeting on an all astro track with the car setup as per my indoors setup, and it was superb. Outside again on sunday so long as its dry on the grass/astro track.
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Last edited by neallewis; 04-16-2013 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:48 PM   #2138
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Originally Posted by neallewis View Post
I'm using this rear tower. Not used the front as yet, as the kit camber holes are fine at the front.


I'm using the outer middle hold, which shortens the upper link. At the hub end, i'm on the outer/longest link setting. when the wishbones and driveshafts are level, the upper link is angled down from the hub to the inner ballstud. This seems to lock in the rear end and calm the over rotation far more than any other setting I've tried. I could not get the same effect with any of the kit ball stud holes on the tower. They just don't seem to move or change the ball position enough to make a handling difference.

Is 80g 5% of the total weight? I'll have to get my scales out to check. the extra weight doesn't bother me though. There is plenty of power available with my 6.5 Tekin gen 2, and bags more rear grip with the under lipo weight.

It may change when I hit the Grass and Astro tracks as the whether improves. I've had one meeting on an all astro track with the car setup as per my indoors setup, and it was superb. Outside again on sunday so long as its dry on the grass/astro track.
That surface looks too slippery to be fun with a 6.5 turn. Are you guys allowed to sauce your tires like the onroad guys? I would like the try the frp towers any one else have those in stock? That Ralls racing is Out of stock.
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:34 PM   #2139
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
That surface looks too slippery to be fun with a 6.5 turn. Are you guys allowed to sauce your tires like the onroad guys? I would like the try the frp towers any one else have those in stock? That Ralls racing is Out of stock.
It's turned down quite a bit ;-) 10.5 is too hot really in a 2wd, I turn that down ~70-80% depending on track.

no, we don't use tyre additive. Just Schumacher Yellow compound rubber, which grips pretty well. nothing else seems to grip though.

Nathan (Ralls Racing) designed and made the towers. I'm sure he'll be restocking soon. They have been popular.
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Old 04-17-2013, 04:52 AM   #2140
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Originally Posted by neallewis View Post

I'm using the outer middle hold, which shortens the upper link. At the hub end, i'm on the outer/longest link setting. when the wishbones and driveshafts are level, the upper link is angled down from the hub to the inner ballstud. This seems to lock in the rear end and calm the over rotation far more than any other setting I've tried. I could not get the same effect with any of the kit ball stud holes on the tower. They just don't seem to move or change the ball position enough to make a handling difference.

Is 80g 5% of the total weight? I'll have to get my scales out to check. the extra weight doesn't bother me though. There is plenty of power available with my 6.5 Tekin gen 2, and bags more rear grip with the under lipo weight.

It may change when I hit the Grass and Astro tracks as the weather improves. I've had one meeting on an all astro track with the car setup as per my indoors setup, and it was superb. Outside again on sunday so long as its dry on the grass/astro track.
Did you make the ballstud changes at the same time as the added weight change? In theory the ballstud changes should not have had that much of an effect. ...the added weight though...
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:39 AM   #2141
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Did you make the ballstud changes at the same time as the added weight change? In theory the ballstud changes should not have had that much of an effect. ...the added weight though...
Not at the same time. Added the weight before the tower change. Of course it was an improvement, but the tower finished it off. I'll do more testing for my outdoor setup from this weekend, so will be taking the weight out first.
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:31 PM   #2142
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Where can you buy those shock tower's?
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:36 PM   #2143
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Where can you buy those shock tower's?
here:
http://www.rallsracing.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=402

http://www.rallsracing.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=401

Out of stock though :-(

I'll mail Nathan Ralls and find out when they are getting more.

https://www.facebook.com/RallsRacing
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:50 AM   #2144
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On this past weekend's race, I broke the right rear hub or what Xray calls the "composite upright". Seems I had so much flex when I snapped the hub, that the ballstud on my camber link cracked.

Just tried looking for the ballstuds in A-Main but they don't seem to carry it. Anyone know where I could get them from?


Thanks!
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:02 AM   #2145
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xray 362652
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-2-10mm-Thread
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