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Old 03-28-2013, 07:16 AM   #1966
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Chris,

Moving the shocks to the inside arm location requires adding another shim limiter under the pistons, correct?
If you are worried about the axle catching the slot in the drive cup and snapping it then yes.

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Hello,

could you guys suggest engine for xb4, indoor carpet track with
class : modified

im going for ESC+eng : viper, novak, Team orion or SP depends on avaiablility.

Attachment 1049349
IMHO no need for a motor that you can only hit full throttle with on the one straight. 10.5 and hammer down.
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:11 AM   #1967
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I'm thinking of getting this buggy... I'm currently running a DURANGO DEX410 and it's basically untouchable at my local track if it doesnt break on the main lol..... Anyone has experience comparing between XB4 and DEX410???
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:17 PM   #1968
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Just keep dropping your oils each run until you feel it's right. You may only be 2.5-5wt out. With each drop in oils put the 2 dot spring back on again.

Are you do the Australian Nats next week?

Do you have to drill out the kimborough spur to get them to fit?
Do you think I should drop both f/r and keep the same 5wt separation?

Nah, not doing the Aus nats. Not good enough Maybe next year.

I reamed the Kimborough out a bit, maybe only half a mm radius. Was worried about centering at first but it worked out fine. Stock plates sit correctly on the pad and don't contact the spur (unlike K plates). Will post a pic some time.
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:19 PM   #1969
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Tim,

I am still working on the setup of mine for hard pack clay.

Would you be willing to share your current setup?

Thanks!

Mark
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:25 AM   #1970
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Originally Posted by mlinder View Post
Chris,

Moving the shocks to the inside arm location requires adding another shim limiter under the pistons, correct?
Yes, on my earlier set ups sheets i use the inner hole on the rear, now I'm on the outer hole.

I wish there was spot on the sheets to write down the length of the shock shaft exposed. No offense to Tim's setup sheet, but even the some factory drivers do it too. They miss one little detail off a setup sheet. I only used Tim's sheet as an example, because its above this post.

I use the space first. This will set my minimum down drop with the ball end on the shock screwed all the way on. Then i will unscrew the ball end on race day to find the right balance for the car. If you have the length of the exposed shaft written down, then it's a lot quicker to put a droop setting on with out taking the shock off and on car and adjusting it.

If I'm testing a totally new shock position and want to keep the same droop then this is what I do.
Screw the shock on car with no spring on it, sit the car on the droop blocks, then sit the axle on the appropriate setting on the droop gauge. Next, measure the exposed shaft length. Use this as a estimate as there is some play/slop in your parts and bearing. Then I'll either screw the ball end in or out to get the appropriate shaft length. Worst case senecio will be that you will have to pull shock apart to insert or remove a spacer. Note: when you install the shock with spring on it, re check the droop setting. It may need a fine adjustment. Write this final measurement down, this will make a droop adjustment so much quicker next time required.
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Last edited by Boz; 03-29-2013 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:38 AM   #1971
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Do you think I should drop both f/r and keep the same 5wt separation?

Nah, not doing the Aus nats. Not good enough Maybe next year.

I reamed the Kimborough out a bit, maybe only half a mm radius. Was worried about centering at first but it worked out fine. Stock plates sit correctly on the pad and don't contact the spur (unlike K plates). Will post a pic some time.
I don't always run a 5wt difference, up to you. Looking at your oil and piston I would say yes, drop both front and rear oils.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:45 AM   #1972
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Hey,

i have savox low profile servo 1251
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .09
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 125.0

do i need something with more torque for 6.5-8.5 turn engine on XB4?

thanks
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:30 PM   #1973
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I use the BLS551 (S9551 US) is plenty for me. I use to use the BLS351 (S9351 US), I can't said I notice a difference.


Specifications BLS551/S9551

Torque: 92 oz-in. @4.8 volts/136 oz-in. @6.0 volts
Speed: 0.14 sec/60 @4.8 volts/0.12 sec/60 @ 6.0 volts
Dimensions: 1.6 x 0.8 x 1.0"
Weight: 1.6 oz
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:48 PM   #1974
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Tim,

Thanks for posting that setup. I wouldn't have thought to try open cell foam indoors.

Mark
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:43 PM   #1975
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Tim,

Thanks for posting that setup. I wouldn't have thought to try open cell foam indoors.

Mark
One of the tracks we run is very bumpy but at thunder I think closed cell would be better, just haven't tried it. I also believe that barcodes would be better as well, little less roll.
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:03 AM   #1976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz View Post
I use the BLS551 (S9551 US) is plenty for me. I use to use the BLS351 (S9351 US), I can't said I notice a difference.


Specifications BLS551/S9551

Torque: 92 oz-in. @4.8 volts/136 oz-in. @6.0 volts
Speed: 0.14 sec/60 @4.8 volts/0.12 sec/60 @ 6.0 volts
Dimensions: 1.6 x 0.8 x 1.0"
Weight: 1.6 oz
The s9551 and bls551 are not the same servo. Just FYI
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:13 AM   #1977
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Correct . the 9551 is faster but I wouldn't use either one in this car. I have a bls 451 in one of mine . 150+tq/.10 speed.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:50 AM   #1978
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I've been using a 9551 in this car since I got it with zero issues.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:13 AM   #1979
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Bls551 no issues here.
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:55 PM   #1980
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Quote:
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The s9551 and bls551 are not the same servo. Just FYI
Ops. You learn something new each day
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