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Old 03-19-2013, 09:36 PM   #1891
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I was board so I calculated the surface area of the holes people are commonly using with the xb4 and similar 1/10th buggies. I also compiled the Kyosho springs and x ray springs into one place.(info taken from petit) I'm running red front gold rear until I get the full set of x ray springs.

Springs and pistons

X-ray
2x1.4=3.07
3x1.3=3.98
2x1.6=4.01
2x1.7=4.53
6x-1.0=4.71
4x1.3=5.3
6x1.1=5.69
6x1.2=6.78

Kyosho springs

Front
Pink 3.58
White 3.72
Gold 3.87
Red 4.03
Yellow 4.20

Rears
Pink 2.38
White 2.44
Gold 2.50
Red 2.56
Yellow 2.63

X ray springs

Front
2 dot 3.66
3 dot 4.06
2 stripe 3.55- 4.79

Rear
1 dot 1.97
2 dot 2.25
3 dot 2.53
2 stripe 1.97-2.53
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:42 PM   #1892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Track surface and temps dictate what compound. Its easier to change tires to get more traction than it is to change setup to get more traction.

Locally we have an all clay 1/8 scale offroad track. 99% of the time we run SS compounds. Tire wear is minimal. You can easily go all year on a single set of tires in a 2wd as long as you aren't constantly spinning your tires.
So you use compounds to decide overall traction and use setup to fine tune it.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:19 PM   #1893
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
So you use compounds to decide overall traction and use setup to fine tune it.
It's a combination of things. Like I said track surface and temps play a big role in the compound choice. Take for instance our local track. Its a hard packed clay. So we run SS (JC green) compounds because they will grip the hard surface better. But if its really hot out we may go to a soft (JC blue) compound, because in the heat the SS becomes too soft. For a looser dirt track you would want a harder compound because you don't want the tire to give. You want the tire to dig and grab the loose dirt. Then you also have to consider tread pattern. This affects traction as much as compound. If our track has been swept a bar code style tire offers way more grip than a double dee style tire, both tires being the same compound. The harder packed the track the shorter the tread depth needed. Looser tracks require deeper tread depth. Then you have foams - softer (open cell) foams for lower traction and rough tracks, firmer (closed cell) for higher traction and smoother tracks. Offroad tires are pretty complicated.

Tires tires tires. Thats what the local fast guy is always telling me. He's a real tire whore. lol But he's a whiz with tires. There is no real way to say you drive x condition so use y tire with z inserts.


I do know and understand tuning an onroad car a little better than I do for offroad. For onroad ideally I'd run the same compound front and rear. Locally we run sweep 32's and 28's. 32's being a little harder than 28's. If I my car is oversteering and I don't have time to chase setup I may try 32's on the front to get rid of some steering. Or I may just do that to confirm I just need to eliminate steering before I change my setup haha But it's more of a bandaid to a proper setup in my opinion.

Normally though, I just go find the fastest guy I can and ask them what they are running.
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Old 03-20-2013, 04:48 AM   #1894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
It's a combination of things. Like I said track surface and temps play a big role in the compound choice. Take for instance our local track. Its a hard packed clay. So we run SS (JC green) compounds because they will grip the hard surface better. But if its really hot out we may go to a soft (JC blue) compound, because in the heat the SS becomes too soft. For a looser dirt track you would want a harder compound because you don't want the tire to give. You want the tire to dig and grab the loose dirt. Then you also have to consider tread pattern. This affects traction as much as compound. If our track has been swept a bar code style tire offers way more grip than a double dee style tire, both tires being the same compound. The harder packed the track the shorter the tread depth needed. Looser tracks require deeper tread depth. Then you have foams - softer (open cell) foams for lower traction and rough tracks, firmer (closed cell) for higher traction and smoother tracks. Offroad tires are pretty complicated.

Tires tires tires. Thats what the local fast guy is always telling me. He's a real tire whore. lol But he's a whiz with tires. There is no real way to say you drive x condition so use y tire with z inserts.


I do know and understand tuning an onroad car a little better than I do for offroad. For onroad ideally I'd run the same compound front and rear. Locally we run sweep 32's and 28's. 32's being a little harder than 28's. If I my car is oversteering and I don't have time to chase setup I may try 32's on the front to get rid of some steering. Or I may just do that to confirm I just need to eliminate steering before I change my setup haha But it's more of a bandaid to a proper setup in my opinion.

Normally though, I just go find the fastest guy I can and ask them what they are running.
This is exactly the info I've been digging for recently in the off road section . Thank YOU. I agree 100% with ur tire stradegy.
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Old 03-20-2013, 07:18 AM   #1895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
It's a combination of things. Like I said track surface and temps play a big role in the compound choice. Take for instance our local track. Its a hard packed clay. So we run SS (JC green) compounds because they will grip the hard surface better. But if its really hot out we may go to a soft (JC blue) compound, because in the heat the SS becomes too soft. For a looser dirt track you would want a harder compound because you don't want the tire to give. You want the tire to dig and grab the loose dirt. Then you also have to consider tread pattern. This affects traction as much as compound. If our track has been swept a bar code style tire offers way more grip than a double dee style tire, both tires being the same compound. The harder packed the track the shorter the tread depth needed. Looser tracks require deeper tread depth. Then you have foams - softer (open cell) foams for lower traction and rough tracks, firmer (closed cell) for higher traction and smoother tracks. Offroad tires are pretty complicated.

Tires tires tires. Thats what the local fast guy is always telling me. He's a real tire whore. lol But he's a whiz with tires. There is no real way to say you drive x condition so use y tire with z inserts.


I do know and understand tuning an onroad car a little better than I do for offroad. For onroad ideally I'd run the same compound front and rear. Locally we run sweep 32's and 28's. 32's being a little harder than 28's. If I my car is oversteering and I don't have time to chase setup I may try 32's on the front to get rid of some steering. Or I may just do that to confirm I just need to eliminate steering before I change my setup haha But it's more of a bandaid to a proper setup in my opinion.

Normally though, I just go find the fastest guy I can and ask them what they are running.
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you! On another topic we are switching to sweep 28s locally!
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:59 AM   #1896
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Is anyone running the progressive springs? I put a set on my last night im going to try them today and see how they feel.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:51 AM   #1897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny lutz View Post
Is anyone running the progressive springs? I put a set on my last night im going to try them today and see how they feel.
I have a set in my basket on amainhobbies. Please report back after you run them.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:51 AM   #1898
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Been running progressives with 6 holes for a few weeks, generally not as agile or plush but handles big air landings better, the track got rebuilt yesterday for the Tekin showdown so maybe back to more stockish.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:13 AM   #1899
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From www.teamxray.com


XRAY presents new authentic option parts for XRAY XB4 car:

#970120 O-Ring 12x1.0 (10)

Fits XB4 shocks
Eliminates oil leaking
For upper cap




Rubber o-rings in size 12x1mm suggested to use for XRAY XB4 shock absorbers in the upper cap to prevent the shocks from leaking.



Bent
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:26 AM   #1900
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Bentka I ordered the aluminum shock caps from jemodels. Do you recommend using the shock o rings you posted or it doesn't leak in stock form?
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:28 AM   #1901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asc6000 View Post
Been running progressives with 6 holes for a few weeks, generally not as agile or plush but handles big air landings better, the track got rebuilt yesterday for the Tekin showdown so maybe back to more stockish.
Did you try the progressives with the stock pistons/oils(+25 on stock wts)? I loved them on our indoor track. I stopped tweaking the car too much its too good with the right tires but our winter series is over now so will see how she does outdoors in looser conditions.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:52 AM   #1902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Bentka I ordered the aluminum shock caps from jemodels. Do you recommend using the shock o rings you posted or it doesn't leak in stock form?

The aluminum shock caps have their own gaskets included......and they don't leak

The design on the aluminum shock caps are different so the new o rings will only fit the original plastic caps

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Old 03-21-2013, 01:42 PM   #1903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
The aluminum shock caps have their own gaskets included......and they don't leak

The design on the aluminum shock caps are different so the new o rings will only fit the original plastic caps

Bent
Do the aluminum caps come with composite/plastic bushings, or do you end up with metal on metal?
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:39 PM   #1904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arigato View Post
Do the aluminum caps come with composite/plastic bushings, or do you end up with metal on metal?
Metal bushings with plastic sleeves.......so metal to plastic

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Old 03-21-2013, 03:56 PM   #1905
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Bentka I ordered the aluminum shock caps from jemodels. Do you recommend using the shock o rings you posted or it doesn't leak in stock form?


There is no way that I will spend $70 on caps! The orings is better solution for Me.
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