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Old 03-14-2013, 11:00 AM   #1846
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Originally Posted by CarlCrocco View Post
Here are my fixes for the intial issues with the XB4.

For the front bulkhead, I made a brace. My frontbulk head is actually broken, but with the brace is working fine. I attached a picture of the brace, it was handmade so its not perfect.

For the CVD plastic pin retainers, I have been using some DEX410 parts.

Team Durango Driveshaft Bushing
Team Durango B-Type Driveshaft Pin Set (2.0mm)

These pins use a set screw and will not fly out.

For the leaky shocks I have been using the DEX410 Orings.

Team Durango 10x1mm Shock Cap O-Ring Set


Hope this helps some people.

I am hoping Team SR looks at my brace and makes a nice one.

This post is right on with the Durango parts for the XB4 cvd's. Part #'s 310113 & 310120. You will also need set screws.
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:28 PM   #1847
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz View Post
This post is right on with the Durango parts for the XB4 cvd's. Part #'s 310113 & 310120. You will also need set screws.
Interesting re the CVD issue. Heard it's down to not enough grease?
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:58 PM   #1848
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When building the diffs with the NT1 gears and the new 35t gear did you notice the fit being "tight" ? due to both being "thicker" than original parts. I have a second car on the bench waiting for metal gears and am curious to see how the fit is.
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
We've been using the NT1 gears and lightweight alu. pins since "day 1" and have just over 4 weeks, 2 races and countless batteries in practice with the new 35T diff gear as well.

Runs as smooth as ever and not a single issue so far

NT1 gear set = 335030
Lightweight hard coated alu. pins = 335081


Now to mount the new aluminum shock caps

This buggy just keeps getting better and better

Bent
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:13 PM   #1849
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Originally Posted by asc6000 View Post
When building the diffs with the NT1 gears and the new 35t gear did you notice the fit being "tight" ? due to both being "thicker" than original parts. I have a second car on the bench waiting for metal gears and am curious to see how the fit is.

Nope......just as smooth as the original setup after a couple of battery packs and a change of oil (which you always do when building new diffs)

We have been running NT1 gears for months now.
They do have a different "sound" to them but they are just as smooth.

We also run the drive shaft pins with flat spot and drive shaft couplings for set screws.

#305392
#305231


Bent
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:19 PM   #1850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Can you post a picture of those? I've been wanting to see if they're any different from the plastic ones.
I'll see if I can take a few pics tomorrow.

They are a lot sleeker (thinner walls), have a smooth inside top and comes with a rubber gasket as well

Bent
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:26 PM   #1851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
I'll see if I can take a few pics tomorrow.

They are a lot sleeker (thinner walls), have a smooth inside top and comes with a rubber gasket as well

Bent
Nice why do we get all the goodies last . Waiting still for big brother to drop some new steering parts stateside (the 13 xb9).
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:42 PM   #1852
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The mailman just dropped off kit #2!
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:48 PM   #1853
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Originally Posted by 07Forester View Post
26.75 b4.1 rear wheel
24.75 xray rear wheel

Those are the measurements I came up with.
I was measuring to retro fit my 2WD buggy wheels as well and that's what I came up, though I was using a wheel from my TLR22 (same inset as the B4.1/2 I think?) to measure. Tire was mounted so measuring was not super precise, though I'll measure a plain rim tomorrow.

Anyway, 24.75 XRAY wheel vs a 26.75 STD 2WD wheel inset gives a delta of 2mm. My XRAY hexes measured 4.99mm wide for me, so I was looking for a 6.99mm wide 12mm hex to use. I heard the SCTE hexes could be used, but my spare ones measured 4.27mm.

I looked at the various hubs for my 22 line, including 22SCT and found the 22SCT stock fronts to be 6.76mm which is close enough to me. Looking at both sides it's a hair under .5mm total difference in width.

A slight dremel to widen the slot in the hex so that the XRay pin fit and it looks like it's gonna work out just great.

Hopefully that helped someone and made up for my ignorant rear toe post.
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:39 PM   #1854
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First night out with the baby, finally! Gotta admit first qualifier round I was all over the place. But by the amain event, i was running very consistent laptimes! I could definitely get used to this car!

And btw, this car is built like a tank!

Thumbs up XRAY!
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:36 PM   #1855
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Now that I post this I'm sure next time out I'll have a problem... Lol.

I have my original diff gears with no issues or sounds. They are perfectly smooth and feel the same as the day I built them, after about 300 minutes of track practice and race time through them.

Am I the only one with no issues?
Should I be worried?

I have some spare metal gears from my old NT1 stuff, should I go ahead and put them in?
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:04 PM   #1856
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No issues here either.
Probably has a lot to do with how you drive and jump...
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:41 PM   #1857
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Well I raced my xb4 for the first time tonight. The first and second qualifiers couldn't have been much worse, but by the main the setup was good thanks to some help a team driver gave me from our last big race. I went from running 19 laps with a fast lap of 17.2 to running 21 laps with a fast lap of 15.7 and I managed to win the A main! The buggy was much better, but it still has an on edge feel to it.
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:54 AM   #1858
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Where to buy the NT1 gears?
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:47 AM   #1859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint161 View Post
Now that I post this I'm sure next time out I'll have a problem... Lol.

I have my original diff gears with no issues or sounds. They are perfectly smooth and feel the same as the day I built them, after about 300 minutes of track practice and race time through them.

Am I the only one with no issues?
Should I be worried?

I have some spare metal gears from my old NT1 stuff, should I go ahead and put them in?
I wouldn't worry about it until something happens. I have the original gears in the diffs and have opened them ~7 times each to change oils. No shimming, just build them like the book says everytime.
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:51 PM   #1860
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Do you use the factory shimming with the nt1 gears in the rear?
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