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Old 02-11-2013, 12:42 PM   #1561
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Originally Posted by kenny lutz View Post
where is everyone getting there parts from the only place i can find parts is amain and they dont have everything i want.
I get mine from my local hobby shop, the kit and the parts cheaper than online too. I haven't needed any parts however.
edit : keep in mind these come from Europe and they get here on a BOAT that travels about 2 miles a day.
I do believe the boat just landed and parts should be available soon
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:07 PM   #1562
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could you post a picture of this upgrade and was it hard to do
Here's a crappy cell phone pic of the carbon brace for the front of the tower connecting the 6 screws:



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Old 02-11-2013, 02:55 PM   #1563
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Here's a crude cell phone pic of the rear brace made out of a piece of 90 degree aluminum angle:



The upper holes are drilled through to use a nut on the back side while the lowers are drilled and tapped for the 3mm hardware.

I'll see if I have a pic of the front brace as well............

Bent
That looks like the front but I might be wrong
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:59 PM   #1564
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Here's a crappy cell phone pic of the carbon brace for the front of the tower connecting the 6 screws:



Bent
Go you only do it to the front tower and can you buy the piece on the front or you make it to?
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Old 02-11-2013, 03:27 PM   #1565
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That looks like the front but I might be wrong
Yes that's the front tower

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Originally Posted by kenny lutz View Post
Go you only do it to the front tower and can you buy the piece on the front or you make it to?
Running the 4mm TeamSR carbon towers eliminates the need for a brace on the rear bulkhead or tower.

The brace for the front of the tower is made out of 2mm carbon fiber but can easily be made out of aluminum for the same effect.
Just use the shock tower as a guide and add material to the bottom part and drill out a couple of extra holes.
The use of 4mm towers lets the tower sit flush with the lower front part of the bulkhead as well......makes it really easy to make a brace for it

Doesn't take long and all you need is a Dremel and a drill bit + cutting wheel

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Old 02-11-2013, 06:04 PM   #1566
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Just wondering when would you consider running +.75 or -.75 hexes front or rear to standard and why?
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:06 PM   #1567
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running plus 0.75 rears since day one. The offset with my rango rear wheels seemed off by that much. I run a similar setup in my xb9 as well, helps lock in rear same as more toe in but more efficient.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:46 PM   #1568
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Get a spare set of outdrives, I broke one before I realized I need to limit uptravel on the shocks.

Once you have the upgrade kit you don't need anything. Of course different shock and diff oils are good to have for tuning. Get some spare wings too.
According to the shop the upgrade kit is included in the kit I've ordered.
Is this possible and are we talking about the same upgrade kit?
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:43 PM   #1569
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trashed some gears, bummer as the car is on rails
so .... how, do you decide how much to shim ?
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:22 AM   #1570
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According to the shop the upgrade kit is included in the kit I've ordered.
Is this possible and are we talking about the same upgrade kit?
Yes......all European shops should have gotten the upgrade kits several weeks ago so they will be included when purchasing a new kit

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Old 02-12-2013, 12:42 AM   #1571
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Yes......all European shops should have gotten the upgrade kits several weeks ago so they will be included when purchasing a new kit

Bent
Oh OK, First we recieve as first the new Mugen Fuel tanks and now the upgrade kit from Xray .
Will fetch mine tomorrow afternoon .
As pinion I think I will put a 20T, is this good?
The motor is a hacker Skalar 10 5.5T, ESC is a hacker Tensoric 10 (160A).

Quote:
Originally Posted by asc6000 View Post
trashed some gears, bummer as the car is on rails
so .... how, do you decide how much to shim ?
I always try to have no play (sideways) and to shim it as thight as possible without feeling the teeth of the gears (minimal play between gears).
I hope this is good .
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:51 AM   #1572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huske View Post
Oh OK, First we recieve as first the new Mugen Fuel tanks and now the upgrade kit from Xray .
Will fetch mine tomorrow afternoon .
As pinion I think I will put a 20T, is this good?
The motor is a hacker Skalar 10 5.5T, ESC is a hacker Tensoric 10 (160A).
Depends on track size really.

We run a 20T pinion with Tekin Gen2 6.5T on this track:

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Plenty of speed with just a touch of boost for the straight

If you have a similar track size I would start with a 19T and go from there

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Old 02-12-2013, 01:19 AM   #1573
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If it is any help I am running an 18T with a 6.5T Nosram and temps on Saturday didnít go past 60 degrees C (plus warm day in my part of Australia)
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:29 AM   #1574
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thinking about getting one of these. i'm used to ae cars and the ball diffs. how often do you have to change the oil on the gear diffs? when you check to see if it needs changing, how do you check? based on feel of rotation of the rear tires, just like a ball diff? thanks
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:46 AM   #1575
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thinking about getting one of these. i'm used to ae cars and the ball diffs. how often do you have to change the oil on the gear diffs? when you check to see if it needs changing, how do you check? based on feel of rotation of the rear tires, just like a ball diff? thanks
I've ran AE cars for a "lifetime" and have always been very pleased with the ball diffs. Really low maintenance if you set them up correctly.

And the gear diffs on the Xray are no different.

Do it right and you will have a trouble free setup.

Sand the diff halves where they meet the gasket.
This will ensure a level and smooth surface to mate with the gasket.
I start off with 400 grit and finish off with 800 grit on a level surface (usually my setup board).
Soak the gaskets and o-rings in green slime prior to installing.
Take care when installing and torquing down the screws for the diff halves.
Do them a little at a time and every other screw to get it to seat properly.
After the first run-in change your oils to fresh to get rid of particles from the break in.
Enjoy a leak free diff for months

Bent
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