Do I have what it takes?
02-01-2005, 03:13 PM
#1
Do I have what it takes?
I was into R/C years ago...had a kyosho turbo optima mid a long long time ago when i was a kid....my father built and maintained the car. I am getting back into the hobby and want to get a 1/8 buggy. But i don't want a RTR, I want to get a kit - I figure I'll know more about the car if I actually do the work and build it. My question is this...I haven't done much of anything as far as wrenching on R/C cars, my father did it all back in the day. Will I be able to put the kit together properly without screwing it up? I'm a bright guy, I just haven't done much on cars. I'm looking at the Kyosho 777(not the special 1) and the Ofna Jammin X1CR. Do you need a great deal of knowledge about these buggys in order to be able to put them together correctly? I'm pretty confident I can follow directions....lol.
Any help is appreciated.
Any help is appreciated.
02-01-2005, 03:27 PM
#2
I guess I'm an idiot and posted this in the wrong place...sorry. Don't hate me.
02-01-2005, 03:35 PM
#3
I always say if you want to get into nitro you should at least be able to work on your lawnmower. But I say that b/c of the motor tuning/maintaing and clutch maintenance.
As far as putting the kit together, if you take your time and follow the directions you should be all good there. Even if you bought an RTR just taking it apart and putting together again would be good for your knowledge of the car. RTR's should be taken apart anyhow in my opinion, to make sure everything is right.
Hardest part about nitros is the learning of how to tune the motor properly, and how to diagnose problems that come up. Like a stuck clutch, or bad bearing may make your car not idle. But these forums can help tremendosly (sp?) in figuring out problems you that may come up.
If you are willing to put the time and effort in learning how to put it together properly little stuff and the big stuff you'll do ok. But it takes much effort in learning how to set it up to drive how you want it to drive. It can get discouraging very fast if you have the wrong outlook at it. The thing needs to be well taken care of, and time spent learning what adjustments do what. Then it takes time practicing doing the things you have learned. Knowing and doing are two different things.
So it's a big comitment money and time wise. It's awesome though once you get even halfway good at it. I'm not trying to discourage you, just say how it is. Good luck!! And don't be afraid to ask questions here.
As far as putting the kit together, if you take your time and follow the directions you should be all good there. Even if you bought an RTR just taking it apart and putting together again would be good for your knowledge of the car. RTR's should be taken apart anyhow in my opinion, to make sure everything is right.
Hardest part about nitros is the learning of how to tune the motor properly, and how to diagnose problems that come up. Like a stuck clutch, or bad bearing may make your car not idle. But these forums can help tremendosly (sp?) in figuring out problems you that may come up.
If you are willing to put the time and effort in learning how to put it together properly little stuff and the big stuff you'll do ok. But it takes much effort in learning how to set it up to drive how you want it to drive. It can get discouraging very fast if you have the wrong outlook at it. The thing needs to be well taken care of, and time spent learning what adjustments do what. Then it takes time practicing doing the things you have learned. Knowing and doing are two different things.
So it's a big comitment money and time wise. It's awesome though once you get even halfway good at it. I'm not trying to discourage you, just say how it is. Good luck!! And don't be afraid to ask questions here.
02-01-2005, 04:13 PM
#4
Thanks jbrow...i really appreciate your input.
02-01-2005, 06:40 PM
#5
No problem. Hope I didn't scare you off, just it's a big investment to jump into and find out it's not what you want to do. I hope ya get into it and like it! Do you have a girlfriend/wife or anything? This stuff can get addicting and the other halfs will start thinking you're nuts!!
02-01-2005, 08:10 PM
#6
Yeah...I'm married to a great girl who lets me have my toys (within reason). I am still shopping for all the stuff I need to get...the only thing I have purchased so far is the radio (got a great deal on a JR xs3 pro). Still looking at all the buggy options - there seems to be so many excellent quality 1/8 scale buggies out now - very different then when I was in the hobby years ago. Back then it was the kyosho burns, or at least thats the only 1/8 scale buggy I remember. I thought I had narrowed it down to the Ofna X1CR and MP777, then I got on the boards and read great stuff about the XB8 and the TTR S3. I would like to get into racing rather than just bashing (I have gone to a local track the last few weekends just to watch), but i realize I will need a good long while before I can put a car on a track with other drivers. So I'm looking for something I can practice with, eventually upgrade, and hopefully be somewhat competitive with this season (meaning finish somewhere other than last at EVERY race). I have the feeling that I really can't go wrong with any of them - from what i have been reading they all have their pros/cons but in the end are all excellent machines.
Thanks for the info again! How does your girlfriend/wife deal with your R/C addiction?
Thanks for the info again! How does your girlfriend/wife deal with your R/C addiction?
02-01-2005, 08:11 PM
#7
Do you have anyone local who you can get tips from and/or show you the ropes? I would recomend you definatly not jump into this cold turkey without at least seeing a few of them running/racing first hand. 1/8th can be very rewarding but it can be a painful road to get there.Like jbrow says, time and effort...those are key essentials. Electric is far more "plug and play" to run out of the box then nitro's are IMO.
You said your father did all the wrenching previously....did you learn anything back then about maintainence and are you mechanicly inclined?
Not trying to scare you off just throwin' in my 2 cents.
You said your father did all the wrenching previously....did you learn anything back then about maintainence and are you mechanicly inclined?
Not trying to scare you off just throwin' in my 2 cents.
02-01-2005, 08:27 PM
#8
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
do not worry no special skills are required. you should get a good set of tools (nut drivers, allen wrenches, pliers ect.) do not get cheap tools get hudy, losi, mip thorp, crafstmen ect. good tools save you many headaches. also do your homework before you buy a motor. (o.s. rg is a good starting motor) do not be afraid to ask the people at your track for advice or suggestions most are very helpfull. both kits you mentioned are good choices if you get the 777 be sure to buy a aftermarket screw kit the phillips head wood screws can be a pain. good luck.
02-01-2005, 08:35 PM
#9
Personally I prefer gas over electric any day, I just find it more rewarding. But I do run both as indoor electric for the winter is easier to find tracks for. My girlfriend (getting married in July) deals with it very well. Considers it much better than going to the bar or whatnot and keeps me out of trouble.
I don't run 1/8 but will sometime get in it. Seems to be where most the racers are going to. I still run my GT though. When I do make the jump, it'll be one of three. Either the mugen, a kyosho, but I think I'll end up with a ofna hyper 7. Very good price and I've heard tons of good stuff about them. But it's a good idea to run what most the other guys are running just so you can borrow or buy parts if you break and don't have a spare. That way someone will be able to help you out.
As far as awhile before you hop on a track.. Well just learn to control the throttle/brakes, and to get steering down. Well that should come fairly quick if you used to run RC's. But all the bashing around won't prepare ya for the track. Nothing like competition to speed up the learning curve. I thought I was a good driver until I put it on a track with lane dividers.
That's a whole new ball game!
Ya know last season there was a guy who just got into the hobby and jumped right into racing. He surprised the heck out of me. He just drove very, very slow. Kinda funny, but he was able to control it that way. I respected that more than the guys who thought they were good racers who couldn't stay on their wheels or the track. The slow driver got as good as the balls out drivers very quickly and surprised me. And since he would drive with control won't surprise me if he surpasses them easily next season. 1/8 is the only class where I've gotten mad while marshalling. So always be kind to marshalls, hit the brakes as they come to get you. I blip the throttle to get marshalls attention myself, but always hold the brake when they get near me. And if you marshall 1/8's I'd suggest some type of sun or eyeglasses and gloves.
I don't run 1/8 but will sometime get in it. Seems to be where most the racers are going to. I still run my GT though. When I do make the jump, it'll be one of three. Either the mugen, a kyosho, but I think I'll end up with a ofna hyper 7. Very good price and I've heard tons of good stuff about them. But it's a good idea to run what most the other guys are running just so you can borrow or buy parts if you break and don't have a spare. That way someone will be able to help you out.
As far as awhile before you hop on a track.. Well just learn to control the throttle/brakes, and to get steering down. Well that should come fairly quick if you used to run RC's. But all the bashing around won't prepare ya for the track. Nothing like competition to speed up the learning curve. I thought I was a good driver until I put it on a track with lane dividers.
That's a whole new ball game! Ya know last season there was a guy who just got into the hobby and jumped right into racing. He surprised the heck out of me. He just drove very, very slow. Kinda funny, but he was able to control it that way. I respected that more than the guys who thought they were good racers who couldn't stay on their wheels or the track. The slow driver got as good as the balls out drivers very quickly and surprised me. And since he would drive with control won't surprise me if he surpasses them easily next season. 1/8 is the only class where I've gotten mad while marshalling. So always be kind to marshalls, hit the brakes as they come to get you. I blip the throttle to get marshalls attention myself, but always hold the brake when they get near me. And if you marshall 1/8's I'd suggest some type of sun or eyeglasses and gloves.
02-02-2005, 06:20 AM
#10
GES,Jbrow1-
When it comes to 1/8th scale buggies your top buggies out right now are the following.
Mugen MBX5 Pro Spec,Kyosho 777 Special,Thunder Tiger s3,Xray XB8.
I was a die hard Ofna fan till I drove the above buggies.The difference in performance and quality isnt even close.
The ofna universals and shocks are a joke IMO and the ofna is cheaper but usually takes $100.00-200.00 in upgrade parts to make them stay together.
They dont handle as well,dont accelerate as well and dont handle certain tracks as well as the 4 listed above.
Is there a Price Difference?Sure there is but you get what you pay for.
You dont have to get the Prospec from Mugen but if your going with the 777 and you KNOW your going to stay in this.Dont mess with the regular edition,save the money and make the jump.
*NOTE* When the parts are packaged WITH the kit you save quite a bit of money.
Example-
Mugen MBX5-$549.95
Mugen MBX5 ProSpec-$719.95-739.95
The price difference is $170.00-190.00
If you took all the parts that come with the ProSpec it comes close to $300.00
So you see the savings.
Im not saying you have to buy the top car but if the money is there by ALLLL means do it.Dont buy one car,drive it,put alot of money in it and then loose your butt trying to sell it for penny's on the dollar expecially with the growth rate of new cars coming out the car could be EXTREMELLY hard to sell.
Why buy a $450.00 buggy,spend $150.00-200.00 on upgrade parts to make it last and work(Ofna) and end up having $600.00-650.00 in it anyway.To only find out when you purchase one of the other cars your lap times get faster(Better all around cars)and that you dont have to drop as much to keep it running or on hopups to make it last.
Please understand Im not trying to scare ANYONE off but I have seen the same mistake time and time and time and time again.
The same comes when guys buy $350.00 motor's and race on a small track.They NEVER use the power the motor puts out.
Mugen MBX5 regular kit IMO is a better KIT than the MP777 regular kit.
The Special and the Pro Spec are so close it's a toss up.
The Xray is a great car
Thunder Tiger is a Great car and they have fixed the Sloppy Parts issue they had on older kits with a new material.The only issue here will be parts support.
OFNA- Everyone carries parts for this car because they HAVE TO.lol.Im not kidding guys I spent 3 yrs with 5 different ofna's and cant even stand to say the name anymore I hate these cars so much.The ONLY people I know that are fast with these are Sponsored guys that would be fast with anything or guys running SPECIAL parts on theirs.Special meaning Kyosho or Mugen Shocks,the best of everything when it comes to drivetrain and they have over $1000.00 in the roller.NO THANKS.
When I switched from a Ofna Hyper 7 Pro(Best car they made till this last year)to a mugen for 2 weekends my laptimes were ALOT faster due to the performance of the car.
Scaring off part- Honesty here.
This is one of the most expensive classes to run.PERIOD!
If your looking to bash or simply race for strickly fun then sure cheaper buggies are fine but also more of a pain in the ARSE.
Parts breaking,pieces failing when they shouldnt and so on.
If your even considering taking this serious dont make the mistake of starting cheap thinking you will upgrade.
It's almost like these guys buying V6 mustangs or camaro's and spending $8000.00 to fix it up.STUPIDDDDDDDDDDDD.......
Again I am simply being honest here.While it may hurt I wish to god someone would have been honest with me when I knew I was getting into this serious.
If you raced before and have a competitive nature in ya then your going to get HOOKED.Dont buy a $400.00-500.00 car when you can spend a lil more and get the top dog and usually save some money by doing so being you will probally end up buying 60% of the upgrade parts ANYWAY.
When it comes to motor's=This is when you step in the pits of your local track and see what people like and run.
There are budget motors you can start with that will do you fine for your 1st season or so.Believe me if you have driven in the past you will not be coming in last.It's about getting around the pipes and throttle control.If you still have ANY Of these skills you will be suprised at where you finish.Common sense is also a good factor to have.Which it sounds like you have plenty of.
Max Power,Rossi,Novarossi,R&B concepts,and so on.
O.S. while nice and probally the best carb in the buisness havent been so good on durability issue's on JUST their .21's.
Their new motor is impressive but also pricey.
Stay AWAY from Picco.
Pipes=The Jammin pipe is pretty much the only way to go if your buying a pipe.The outlet is the best in the buisness and wont get damaged like others.
Servo's.Be sure to buy quality servo's for steering.
Personal favorite is Airtronics with the heat sink case.
DO NOT BUY HITEC for steering.They are cheap for a reason.
I dont think I have owned a hitec yet that has centered after about 2-3 weekends.Some people may swear by Hitec because thats all they can afford or thats all they have had.Believe me when I tell you (about 10 burnt up,about 10 more wont center,weaker gears)that I know.
Now their customer service is KILLER.While it should be.
Airtronics,Ko,JR is what I would go with.
Can you get into 1/8th scale for under $800.00?????Sure.
But if the bug bites you will have $1500.00-2000.00 in it pretty quick.
Do you remeber where I said I didnt wanna scare you.lol.
Lets say I spent $3200.00-3800.00 to get where most guys that did it right the 1st time having $1500.00-2000.00 in it by me buying low and buying and selling or having it sit at home on the shelf useless.
$1500.00-2000.00 will get you the following.
Radio-$150.00-270.00
Roller-$550.00-750.00
Engine-$250.00-350.00
Servo's-$200.00-250.00
Starter Box-$100.00-150.00 with battery and so on.
accesories-$50.00-150.00
The Cool THING.Is alot of this stuff can be bought USED.I would rather by used stuff that I know is in good condition than buying JUNK new.
When it comes to the buggy.If you buy a used roller make SURE it has the manual and like Jbrow1 said you can actually dissasemble the car and rebuild it to learn it.
When it comes to new IMO I would stay very far away from the ofna stuff but thats with my 3 yrs of experience with their product.
Goodluck to ya.Have a blast with 1/8th scale and whether you decide to get serious or just bash I hope you find what you want.
When it comes to 1/8th scale buggies your top buggies out right now are the following.
Mugen MBX5 Pro Spec,Kyosho 777 Special,Thunder Tiger s3,Xray XB8.
I was a die hard Ofna fan till I drove the above buggies.The difference in performance and quality isnt even close.
The ofna universals and shocks are a joke IMO and the ofna is cheaper but usually takes $100.00-200.00 in upgrade parts to make them stay together.
They dont handle as well,dont accelerate as well and dont handle certain tracks as well as the 4 listed above.
Is there a Price Difference?Sure there is but you get what you pay for.
You dont have to get the Prospec from Mugen but if your going with the 777 and you KNOW your going to stay in this.Dont mess with the regular edition,save the money and make the jump.
*NOTE* When the parts are packaged WITH the kit you save quite a bit of money.
Example-
Mugen MBX5-$549.95
Mugen MBX5 ProSpec-$719.95-739.95
The price difference is $170.00-190.00
If you took all the parts that come with the ProSpec it comes close to $300.00
So you see the savings.
Im not saying you have to buy the top car but if the money is there by ALLLL means do it.Dont buy one car,drive it,put alot of money in it and then loose your butt trying to sell it for penny's on the dollar expecially with the growth rate of new cars coming out the car could be EXTREMELLY hard to sell.
Why buy a $450.00 buggy,spend $150.00-200.00 on upgrade parts to make it last and work(Ofna) and end up having $600.00-650.00 in it anyway.To only find out when you purchase one of the other cars your lap times get faster(Better all around cars)and that you dont have to drop as much to keep it running or on hopups to make it last.
Please understand Im not trying to scare ANYONE off but I have seen the same mistake time and time and time and time again.
The same comes when guys buy $350.00 motor's and race on a small track.They NEVER use the power the motor puts out.
Mugen MBX5 regular kit IMO is a better KIT than the MP777 regular kit.
The Special and the Pro Spec are so close it's a toss up.
The Xray is a great car
Thunder Tiger is a Great car and they have fixed the Sloppy Parts issue they had on older kits with a new material.The only issue here will be parts support.
OFNA- Everyone carries parts for this car because they HAVE TO.lol.Im not kidding guys I spent 3 yrs with 5 different ofna's and cant even stand to say the name anymore I hate these cars so much.The ONLY people I know that are fast with these are Sponsored guys that would be fast with anything or guys running SPECIAL parts on theirs.Special meaning Kyosho or Mugen Shocks,the best of everything when it comes to drivetrain and they have over $1000.00 in the roller.NO THANKS.
When I switched from a Ofna Hyper 7 Pro(Best car they made till this last year)to a mugen for 2 weekends my laptimes were ALOT faster due to the performance of the car.
Scaring off part- Honesty here.
This is one of the most expensive classes to run.PERIOD!
If your looking to bash or simply race for strickly fun then sure cheaper buggies are fine but also more of a pain in the ARSE.
Parts breaking,pieces failing when they shouldnt and so on.
If your even considering taking this serious dont make the mistake of starting cheap thinking you will upgrade.
It's almost like these guys buying V6 mustangs or camaro's and spending $8000.00 to fix it up.STUPIDDDDDDDDDDDD.......
Again I am simply being honest here.While it may hurt I wish to god someone would have been honest with me when I knew I was getting into this serious.
If you raced before and have a competitive nature in ya then your going to get HOOKED.Dont buy a $400.00-500.00 car when you can spend a lil more and get the top dog and usually save some money by doing so being you will probally end up buying 60% of the upgrade parts ANYWAY.
When it comes to motor's=This is when you step in the pits of your local track and see what people like and run.
There are budget motors you can start with that will do you fine for your 1st season or so.Believe me if you have driven in the past you will not be coming in last.It's about getting around the pipes and throttle control.If you still have ANY Of these skills you will be suprised at where you finish.Common sense is also a good factor to have.Which it sounds like you have plenty of.
Max Power,Rossi,Novarossi,R&B concepts,and so on.
O.S. while nice and probally the best carb in the buisness havent been so good on durability issue's on JUST their .21's.
Their new motor is impressive but also pricey.
Stay AWAY from Picco.
Pipes=The Jammin pipe is pretty much the only way to go if your buying a pipe.The outlet is the best in the buisness and wont get damaged like others.
Servo's.Be sure to buy quality servo's for steering.
Personal favorite is Airtronics with the heat sink case.
DO NOT BUY HITEC for steering.They are cheap for a reason.
I dont think I have owned a hitec yet that has centered after about 2-3 weekends.Some people may swear by Hitec because thats all they can afford or thats all they have had.Believe me when I tell you (about 10 burnt up,about 10 more wont center,weaker gears)that I know.
Now their customer service is KILLER.While it should be.
Airtronics,Ko,JR is what I would go with.
Can you get into 1/8th scale for under $800.00?????Sure.
But if the bug bites you will have $1500.00-2000.00 in it pretty quick.
Do you remeber where I said I didnt wanna scare you.lol.
Lets say I spent $3200.00-3800.00 to get where most guys that did it right the 1st time having $1500.00-2000.00 in it by me buying low and buying and selling or having it sit at home on the shelf useless.
$1500.00-2000.00 will get you the following.
Radio-$150.00-270.00
Roller-$550.00-750.00
Engine-$250.00-350.00
Servo's-$200.00-250.00
Starter Box-$100.00-150.00 with battery and so on.
accesories-$50.00-150.00
The Cool THING.Is alot of this stuff can be bought USED.I would rather by used stuff that I know is in good condition than buying JUNK new.
When it comes to the buggy.If you buy a used roller make SURE it has the manual and like Jbrow1 said you can actually dissasemble the car and rebuild it to learn it.
When it comes to new IMO I would stay very far away from the ofna stuff but thats with my 3 yrs of experience with their product.
Goodluck to ya.Have a blast with 1/8th scale and whether you decide to get serious or just bash I hope you find what you want.
02-03-2005, 09:36 AM
#11
Tex-
Thanks for the advice; I hadn't thought about some of the points you raised.
Thanks for the advice; I hadn't thought about some of the points you raised.
02-03-2005, 05:34 PM
#12
Tex and jbrow-
Since you two guys have been EXTREMELY helpful, I figured I should ask you this question: Tex said that I would be better off buying a little better buggy up-front rather than upgrading one later at higher cost. The buggies I am looking at are : Special 1, Jammin X1, MBX5 Prospec, Xray XB8 and TTR S3. The TTR S3 looks really good and is about $200 less than the others (except the jammin but I think I am going to stay away from Ofna)...are the others worth the extra $200? The TTR S3 appears to include all the high-end features of the more expensive buggies, at a lower price point. Plus I like the idea that not many guys are running them - I have always liked being a little different. My LHS doesn't stock many parts for ANY 1/8 scale buggy, so local parts availability sucks for all of them. I am now leaning towards the S3 - any thoughts?
Thanks again for all your help.
Since you two guys have been EXTREMELY helpful, I figured I should ask you this question: Tex said that I would be better off buying a little better buggy up-front rather than upgrading one later at higher cost. The buggies I am looking at are : Special 1, Jammin X1, MBX5 Prospec, Xray XB8 and TTR S3. The TTR S3 looks really good and is about $200 less than the others (except the jammin but I think I am going to stay away from Ofna)...are the others worth the extra $200? The TTR S3 appears to include all the high-end features of the more expensive buggies, at a lower price point. Plus I like the idea that not many guys are running them - I have always liked being a little different. My LHS doesn't stock many parts for ANY 1/8 scale buggy, so local parts availability sucks for all of them. I am now leaning towards the S3 - any thoughts?
Thanks again for all your help.
02-03-2005, 05:50 PM
#13
Well it's a case where you have to choose yourself. If I wanted a buggy and had the cash for all of them... Well it would be a toss up between the mugen and the kyosho. I'd probably go with the kyosho just b/c it's such a proven car. But it's up to you and what you want to spend.
Now for the being different part. I like to also. I run an MIP Stinger exhaust on my GT even though everybody says I should take it off. But I like it! No performance gains or losses that I notice, and it is nice exiting out the rear. So if you want to be different go for it.
Thing about being different is you won't be able to go to the guys in the pits and borrow/buy parts. Not a big deal if you keep a stock of your own parts, which sounds like you'll have to do anyhow. I keep plenty of parts for my cars. It's a good idea. But if that part that never breaks, breaks.. you'll be outta luck. But that's just the way it goes.
If you do decide to save the 200, I'd directly sink it into the best servos you can get. You said you already have a jrxs-3, that's a good radio and you should like it. Servos though, will make a world of difference in how the car feels. I never believed it until I got good ones. I'd say airtronics, futaba, or jr servos. Stay away from the hitecs.
Ultimately the choice is yours. Just depends on what you want to spend. How competitive you want to be. Just a note, if you get the best equipment the only thing left to blame for bad finishes is yourself...lol.. that's a joke. And always remember, we're not pros!! The right attitude will help you out a ton! Don't get mad at the equipment, and slower is faster!
Now for the being different part. I like to also. I run an MIP Stinger exhaust on my GT even though everybody says I should take it off. But I like it! No performance gains or losses that I notice, and it is nice exiting out the rear. So if you want to be different go for it.
Thing about being different is you won't be able to go to the guys in the pits and borrow/buy parts. Not a big deal if you keep a stock of your own parts, which sounds like you'll have to do anyhow. I keep plenty of parts for my cars. It's a good idea. But if that part that never breaks, breaks.. you'll be outta luck. But that's just the way it goes.
If you do decide to save the 200, I'd directly sink it into the best servos you can get. You said you already have a jrxs-3, that's a good radio and you should like it. Servos though, will make a world of difference in how the car feels. I never believed it until I got good ones. I'd say airtronics, futaba, or jr servos. Stay away from the hitecs.
Ultimately the choice is yours. Just depends on what you want to spend. How competitive you want to be. Just a note, if you get the best equipment the only thing left to blame for bad finishes is yourself...lol.. that's a joke. And always remember, we're not pros!! The right attitude will help you out a ton! Don't get mad at the equipment, and slower is faster!
03-25-2005, 08:42 PM
#14
Tech Initiate
Well like jbrow said the thing about being different is that you can't borrow parts from anybody in the pits.Also being different can be a bad thing.The other people at your local track are probably not running the s3 because it doesn't work that good or it doesn't stay together like the mugen's and kyosho's.But If I were you I would go with a kyosho or a mugen.Also you don't have to have a 777 to be good.You can probably look on ebay and find a kanai 2 for the same price as the s3 kit.The kanai 2 or 3 in my mind is just as good as the 777 or mugen.But it's your choice.
03-25-2005, 08:56 PM
#15
I picked up a K3 fairly recently to run myself. Shortly after there was a 777 here in the for sale thread for $300 roller. But no biggie, I got a nice bag of spare parts with mine, and it was put together by one of the best racers around here.
I'm beginning to think I have to many rc cars sitting in the basement though... Going to have to start storing a couple where I can't see em so I won't think about it...
I'm beginning to think I have to many rc cars sitting in the basement though... Going to have to start storing a couple where I can't see em so I won't think about it...