ProLite 4x4 Thread
#1126
Any one else
Any one else get a pro sc lately
#1127
Tech Initiate
I went with alloy front knuckle set blue,steering bell crank alloy blue, rear hubs , alloy wheel hex, front shock i went with 40-30 in rear i left the springs on it that came with it silver in front black spring in back .an move the shock bottom to the last hole on a-arm all @. I got the Robinson hardened pinion so i want to swap it also got to change my spur it is a little chewed ,not bad. They are GPM parts i put the # 5 spacers on back 3 up front need to see how that works ,but when i changed oil in shock it made the drive night an day if u have not i suggest u do change it . are u runnin 2s or 3s ,what have u found or did?
#1128
So far all I have done is lay down the shocks as far as they will go. Basically I've leveled the right height of the truck I just prefer that look, also going to add thicker shock oil as soon as I can. Currently running 2s but my next battery will be a 3s. The truck is strictly a basher so not really going to get too technical with the set up of the truck. The furthest I think I will go is playing around a little bit with the different weight oil in the difs.
#1129
Definitely change the shock oil it is a huge improvement,an u will have a better ride ,i like that squatty look as well with the pro line body or the raptor looks bad
#1130
Tech Initiate
Heck yeah I agree, also going to put the swaybar kit on it from the rally car that will vastly improve the handling. I think I will put 45 or 50 wait shock oil in it stock comes with 35 weight front and rear.
#1131
U found were u can buy a set of sway bars i want to get some but can't find them in stock , were do u get them from . I am finding it to b defucult to find parts, i need a ball cup 1 is got a small crack in it .
#1132
Tech Rookie
i want to change out fluid for front and rear differential fluid, what do you guys recommend 30k front 7k rear? do i need to put black grease for just fluid is fine?
#1133
Tech Addict
Wash out the grease with gunk. Take the diffs apart and clean them really well. Check your manual for instructions on how to do so. Replace the grease with AE diff oil. I started with 10k/7k. It's still twitchy and somewhat loose so I just went to 30k in the front. I'm currently racing my PROSC in open modified class so obviously it is being upgraded. I'll update my progress here if anyone's interested. Like many, AE left us short course guys hanging when it comes to 4x4. The Pro is it for now I guess.
#1134
Tech Elite
iTrader: (59)
Wash out the grease with gunk. Take the diffs apart and clean them really well. Check your manual for instructions on how to do so. Replace the grease with AE diff oil. I started with 10k/7k. It's still twitchy and somewhat loose so I just went to 30k in the front. I'm currently racing my PROSC in open modified class so obviously it is being upgraded. I'll update my progress here if anyone's interested. Like many, AE left us short course guys hanging when it comes to 4x4. The Pro is it for now I guess.
#1135
Tech Addict
I noticed they are offering the new threaded V2 16mm shocks for it yes. I ordered them along with aluminium shock caps for the 1/8 16mm shocks. Should be here soon. Looking forward to the adjustability and consistency of those shocks. It's funny though, other than frequent rebuilds due to loose tolerances, I've got the stock 16mm shocks working pretty good. AE 42.5 with black springs in the front, 37.5 with the nickle springs in the back. I run on an fairly tame 1/8 track and they are working far far better than the stock shocks that came on the Prolite. AE did pretty good by upgrading them.
#1136
Tech Addict
Given that if you want to support Associated and buy new; it's all that's available, the truck really isn't that bad. I've been running hard for about two months with it. 4-5 lipos a day. I've broken nothing. I disassembled the entire truck when I bought it, rebuilt it with thread locker and proper fluids. I discarded the factory XP radio system immediately. Installed a Futaba S9352HV servo, plastic servo arm replaced the stock saver. I replaced all the bearings with ACER ceramic bearings. Added GPM Alloy steering bell crank and alloy rear knuckles. Lunsford punisher turnbuckles with stock ball ends. Cut out some thick chassis tape and made covers for the rear open spur/pinion area. Drilled all the way into the middle of the rear arms and attached the rear shocks with a 4/40 socket head screw and locktited nut.
That's it and obviously different tires. The truck needs power so I'm soon adding a Reedy 4.5 550 and 410r. With that I shouldn't have any issues keeping up with this truck. Very under rated in my opinion.
That's it and obviously different tires. The truck needs power so I'm soon adding a Reedy 4.5 550 and 410r. With that I shouldn't have any issues keeping up with this truck. Very under rated in my opinion.
#1137
Tech Addict
With the above set up, there is something I've noticed that is constant regardless of my tire package; the rear end rotates much faster than I feel it should for my driving style. The 30k in the front really stabilized the front end. Now I think I need to go up from the 7k I have in the rear. Earlier in this thread, many have said the truck likes thicker diff oils. This is proving to be true. Tonight I'll go to 10k and see if that helps.
I noticed that this thread was really popular a few years ago; seemed like some 50% guys were pushing the truck a bit. Did everyone give up on it and go back to the SC10 4X4 or get out of 4 wheel SCT altogether? The class is as popular as any of the 1/10 stuff at my track.
I noticed that this thread was really popular a few years ago; seemed like some 50% guys were pushing the truck a bit. Did everyone give up on it and go back to the SC10 4X4 or get out of 4 wheel SCT altogether? The class is as popular as any of the 1/10 stuff at my track.
#1139
driveshaft issues
I have a friend who is having issues with the driveshaft stripping the rear cup. Any advice on strengthening that or mod other than loosening the slipper?
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!