Also deburring the plastic perfectly
works really well, even the slightest burr on any of the tree-molded parts will cause it to snag or even rip the silicone seals.
As for rebound - use none.
Although the TC manuals say to fill with a certain rebound - you should have zero to none on any offroad vehicle, and here is why.
The oil in your shocks controls the speed
at which the shock reacts, not suspensive properties. That's what springs are for. Filling it to preset a "rebound" is not only inaccurate, it is a recipe for blown seals.
When you push the shock shaft in the internal pressure rises with displacement.
When this happens, it can either pop the caps off or more likely leak out through the seals, and now you have leaks. Again.
Most of you that fill with a planned rebound do so by eye and feel, which is only as accurate as your guess. Furthermore, let's say you have an expensive "shock tuner" and dial in the exact same amount of "rebound" (IMO, another word for "an overfilled shock"
) Now you get it out on the track and start hammering it, and the preceding events will begin to occur - in an effort to equalize the pressure inside the shock, the oil iis going to start leaking or pop a cap. Since this is going to occur at different rates on all four wheels, your finely tuned "overfill" is going to be different for each wheel. How accurate is that?
Not very. To properly fill an AE offroad shock, fill it to the top, bounce the shaft up and down to get the bubbles out, then push the shaft to within 1/4" of the top of the body, forcing out any excess. There should be a lens-shaped bubble of oil on the top, cap it off. Perfect. When you move the shock in and out and let go at any point, it should move no more than 1/8" or not at all.
As for caps - been using plastic ones since the original 10T days (which I still have, click for pics
) and have never popped a single one with correct shock filling.