Shock Building Tips and Tricks
#1
Shock Building Tips and Tricks
Proper shock setup (among other things) is key to any rc race vechile operating properly. The problem I see is a lot of newer racers do not know how to build their shocks properly and thus get frustrated when their setup does not work properly on the track. I know that that are many ways to build a shock that works great and that everyone has their own technique so I hope that we can discuss and share that information in this thread.
If you have a certain question please ask and we will get someone to help answer it.
Fire away.
If you have a certain question please ask and we will get someone to help answer it.
Fire away.
#3
im a new racer so will be following this thread. i build mine emulsion style with 0 rebound because I have trouble getting them to match perfectly. bladders are to big of a PITA to get to match perfect, i mean how do you push in the shaft 1/3 of the way and get them perfect? it takes like 30 tries for me to get them close.
#4
im a new racer so will be following this thread. i build mine emulsion style with 0 rebound because I have trouble getting them to match perfectly. bladders are to big of a PITA to get to match perfect, i mean how do you push in the shaft 1/3 of the way and get them perfect? it takes like 30 tries for me to get them close.
#5
Oh yes i have that issue with my RC8T big bores i hand tighten them fully intill the shock cap is fully seated on seems to work better but still does it a little after a run. The Bladders are fully seated in the cap also.
#6
im a new racer so will be following this thread. i build mine emulsion style with 0 rebound because I have trouble getting them to match perfectly. bladders are to big of a PITA to get to match perfect, i mean how do you push in the shaft 1/3 of the way and get them perfect? it takes like 30 tries for me to get them close.
I try to get as close as i can with the bladders on with rebound i just get ticked off trying to get them perfect .
#7
im a new racer so will be following this thread. i build mine emulsion style with 0 rebound because I have trouble getting them to match perfectly. bladders are to big of a PITA to get to match perfect, i mean how do you push in the shaft 1/3 of the way and get them perfect? it takes like 30 tries for me to get them close.
I try to get as close as i can with the bladders on with rebound i just get ticked off trying to get them perfect with less than full rebound.
#8
yes I have! One shock always rebounds more than the other I even tried using a medicine syringe to make sure I have the exact amount of fluid in each shock and they still come out different, one will rebound faster than the other. I cant beleive they dont make a tool for this and I dont mean the losi shock matching tool because that is usless, than only tells you wich one is weaker on stronger.
#9
Am I really over thinking it? i hope so because it take me at least an hour to match 2 shocks. and all I do is compress them all the way and tighten the cap and they will come up different.
#10
Im boarder line OCD so anything less than perfect is not an option, I will waist a hole bottle of fluid to get them right, I cant help it. If I let it go anything that happends with how the truck handles I will blame it on that one shock thats weak, and I would have drivin better if the shock wasnt weak lol, im way to picky for that.
Am I really over thinking it? i hope so because it take me at least an hour to match 2 shocks. and all I do is compress them all the way and tighten the cap and they will come up different.
Am I really over thinking it? i hope so because it take me at least an hour to match 2 shocks. and all I do is compress them all the way and tighten the cap and they will come up different.
Yea i get you i tried doing the same exact thing many times with the shocks to get them to be perfect on rebound and just like i said i get ticked of and i just run full rebound to be honest. If i can get them to be close thats a victory for me and my truck seems to handle and jump fine . Im not a pro driver so i cant tell that small of a diffrence only bigger things like droop , ride height etc.
The one reason why i just run full rebound is its easier to match and less chance of trapped air bubbles because your not bleeding more and more oil out .
Heres the thing also with shocks that run bladders even with bleeder holes the rebound doesnt really stay the same anyways after you run on the track a few times .
#13
When it comes to the rebound there is no 1 perfect setting. On my SCTE I run close to 0 rebound and it works well. On my DEX408 1/8th scale buggy I run 25% rebound and have no complaints. I would ask the fast guys at your track and see what they are running.
As for the screw not tightening on the shock cap it is very easy to strip them out and so you need to go to a aluminum cap if available or just be very careful not to over tighten. If it is leaking at the hole I have seen a lot of guys use a small oring or a small washer.
Hopefully we can get some shock gurus to chime in and share some of their secrets.
As for the screw not tightening on the shock cap it is very easy to strip them out and so you need to go to a aluminum cap if available or just be very careful not to over tighten. If it is leaking at the hole I have seen a lot of guys use a small oring or a small washer.
Hopefully we can get some shock gurus to chime in and share some of their secrets.
#14
Tech Lord
iTrader: (22)
I can say this. If you think your rebound is off one shock to another, try running them in on the kit for a battery pack then check them.
Setting rebound is tricky. If one has a little more than the other put it on the heaviest side of the kit then run it in.
Rebound is also effected one shock to another by the o/ring seal. Be sure all of your spacers are the same, even if you have to sand them to make them even.
I top my shocks off before practice and the mains every race day.
When I build my shocks I sand the spacers even. I sand mine down to the point they are close to leaking and as the rings swell they don't get to tight.
Setting rebound is tricky. If one has a little more than the other put it on the heaviest side of the kit then run it in.
Rebound is also effected one shock to another by the o/ring seal. Be sure all of your spacers are the same, even if you have to sand them to make them even.
I top my shocks off before practice and the mains every race day.
When I build my shocks I sand the spacers even. I sand mine down to the point they are close to leaking and as the rings swell they don't get to tight.
#15
I can say this. If you think your rebound is off one shock to another, try running them in on the kit for a battery pack then check them.
Setting rebound is tricky. If one has a little more than the other put it on the heaviest side of the kit then run it in.
Rebound is also effected one shock to another by the o/ring seal. Be sure all of your spacers are the same, even if you have to sand them to make them even.
I top my shocks off before practice and the mains every race day.
When I build my shocks I sand the spacers even. I sand mine down to the point they are close to leaking and as the rings swell they don't get to tight.
Setting rebound is tricky. If one has a little more than the other put it on the heaviest side of the kit then run it in.
Rebound is also effected one shock to another by the o/ring seal. Be sure all of your spacers are the same, even if you have to sand them to make them even.
I top my shocks off before practice and the mains every race day.
When I build my shocks I sand the spacers even. I sand mine down to the point they are close to leaking and as the rings swell they don't get to tight.
hey tc5 man, thanks for the help, I just dont like the bladder i keep getting vapor lock and it makes them real stiff, what causes that? air in the shock?