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Old 01-17-2014, 05:09 AM   #9421
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GMK supply makes a great set for working on the shocks, a lower tool and a clamp to hold the body as well.
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:20 AM   #9422
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
GMK supply makes a great set for working on the shocks, a lower tool and a clamp to hold the body as well.
+1 on the GMK supply tools.
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:41 AM   #9423
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New Body, actually spent a little bit of time on this one unlike my green and white one I made quickly.
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 Thread-0117141137.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 Thread-0117141137a.jpg  
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:05 AM   #9424
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I've got a question, why is everyone running the 521-1 rb5 rear arms? I have a set but just unsure why they are better then the gull wing arms.
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:40 AM   #9425
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I've got a question, why is everyone running the 521-1 rb5 rear arms? I have a set but just unsure why they are better then the gull wing arms.
Just a different feel. 521-1 square's up faster during a turn (point and shoot) and has a little less droop. I wouldn't say one's really faster but I do prefer the 521-1 feel on my rb6.
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Old 01-18-2014, 02:22 PM   #9426
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I just got the v2 .5 rear hubs, what ur guys using to shim the cvd's?
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Old 01-18-2014, 02:34 PM   #9427
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I just got the v2 .5 rear hubs, what ur guys using to shim the cvd's?

I beleive its 5x7 shim set from kyosho
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Old 01-18-2014, 02:51 PM   #9428
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
Just a different feel. 521-1 square's up faster during a turn (point and shoot) and has a little less droop. I wouldn't say one's really faster but I do prefer the 521-1 feel on my rb6.
Gotcha. So on high bite carpet the less droop would be beneficial right? Since there's no bumps or ruts?
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Old 01-18-2014, 02:59 PM   #9429
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Default V2 hubs

Can the 0.5 V2 hubs be switched L or R side to create 3.5 or 2.5 degree toe with the stock suspension holders?
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Old 01-18-2014, 03:58 PM   #9430
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Can the 0.5 V2 hubs be switched L or R side to create 3.5 or 2.5 degree toe with the stock suspension holders?
i beleive so yes
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:21 PM   #9431
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Default diff question

hi guys. i race (or at least trying to race) 17.5. im putting an amain order together and was contemplating the steel gear set for the gear diff. i already have the regular gear diff w 2k kyosho fluid in it and used that red kyosho gear diff seal grease and it leaks like mad still. i think i needed to put the grease in the screw holes perhaps, but havent opened the tranny back up to see, but notice a lot of fluid leaks out the cracks in the tranny case. when i had assembled the gear diff, the red grease did a great job sealing up the diff with exception of the screw holes, which had no grease sealant. anyhow, gear diff runs great despite being messy and i like the fact that it doesnt need constant re-tightening. so was thinking of upgrading to steel gears to bulletproof the thing but am having second thoughts and thinking the 70 bucks or so might better be spent on the mip pucks kit. so steel gear diff or pucks kit? or steal gear diff with mip aluminum cvd kit is another option too however concerned about aluminum cvd wear on steel outdrives. hence thinking pucks kit might be way to go although back to a ball diff. any thoughts? thanks.

glenn

Last edited by glenng; 01-18-2014 at 04:24 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:35 PM   #9432
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http://blog.jconcepts.net/2013/09/jc...6-bell-cranks/

Hey guys, I broke my plastick bell crank today and was looking at the kyosho or the jconcept. any recomendations on which are better?
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Old 01-18-2014, 08:23 PM   #9433
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
Just a different feel. 521-1 square's up faster during a turn (point and shoot) and has a little less droop. I wouldn't say one's really faster but I do prefer the 521-1 feel on my rb6.
Would the RB5 rear arm be better for MM outdoor clay?
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:03 PM   #9434
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I always keep the kit arms around for real low grip situations. If you feel that lowering your rear roll center, laying the rear shocks down a bit, and even lightening the damping up isn't getting the job done, it's time to whip out the kit arms and or consider moving to rear motor or perhaps a saddle battery all the way back in mid motor.
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:55 PM   #9435
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http://blog.jconcepts.net/2013/09/jc...6-bell-cranks/

Hey guys, I broke my plastick bell crank today and was looking at the kyosho or the jconcept. any recomendations on which are better?
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