172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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12-06-2016, 04:28 PM
Ok, so I'm picking up an RB6 that is setup for stock dirt racing to add to the collection of Kyosho racing toys - MIP Aluminum Pucks, cut gear, lightweight goodies and Schelle Nova Slipper system. Plan is to run it as a stocker, but most of the surrounding tracks don't have that class on a weekly basis, just larger events. Most times it's just a modified open 2WD buggy class at the club level.
With that in mind, is a 17.5T motor still the ideal fit with this stocker buggy if paired with a orion r10 Pro if I wanted to try and run it more often at the weekly level?
Guess my question is related to how much, is too much, motor for a buggy with the MIP system and cut gears set-up from a possible breakage standpoint, and can the Nova Slipper system handle bigger boy motors?
Ideally, it's be great to swap out motors as needed to run this more often, but curious what feedback anyone has on the topic.
Thanks!
With that in mind, is a 17.5T motor still the ideal fit with this stocker buggy if paired with a orion r10 Pro if I wanted to try and run it more often at the weekly level?
Guess my question is related to how much, is too much, motor for a buggy with the MIP system and cut gears set-up from a possible breakage standpoint, and can the Nova Slipper system handle bigger boy motors?
Ideally, it's be great to swap out motors as needed to run this more often, but curious what feedback anyone has on the topic.
Thanks!
12-06-2016, 05:00 PM
Tech Initiate
Yeah I figured that out after the fact. It was stock but I had no idea we weren't supposed to adjust the timing in the esc. I was so slow without any timing at all that I could barely clear the jumps. Also It isnt an expensive stock motor lol. It cost me 45 bucks on ebay.
12-06-2016, 05:30 PM
Check your motor timing is not backwards. Still doesn't work get a new $90 fantom or reedy. If your esc doesn't have blinkyvget a $50 just-stock. Never seen anyone race a castle so don't know it runs blinky
Yeah I figured that out after the fact. It was stock but I had no idea we weren't supposed to adjust the timing in the esc. I was so slow without any timing at all that I could barely clear the jumps. Also It isnt an expensive stock motor lol. It cost me 45 bucks on ebay.
12-06-2016, 08:05 PM
Ok, so I'm picking up an RB6 that is setup for stock dirt racing to add to the collection of Kyosho racing toys - MIP Aluminum Pucks, cut gear, lightweight goodies and Schelle Nova Slipper system. Plan is to run it as a stocker, but most of the surrounding tracks don't have that class on a weekly basis, just larger events. Most times it's just a modified open 2WD buggy class at the club level.
With that in mind, is a 17.5T motor still the ideal fit with this stocker buggy if paired with a orion r10 Pro if I wanted to try and run it more often at the weekly level?
Guess my question is related to how much, is too much, motor for a buggy with the MIP system and cut gears set-up from a possible breakage standpoint, and can the Nova Slipper system handle bigger boy motors?
Ideally, it's be great to swap out motors as needed to run this more often, but curious what feedback anyone has on the topic.
Thanks!
With that in mind, is a 17.5T motor still the ideal fit with this stocker buggy if paired with a orion r10 Pro if I wanted to try and run it more often at the weekly level?
Guess my question is related to how much, is too much, motor for a buggy with the MIP system and cut gears set-up from a possible breakage standpoint, and can the Nova Slipper system handle bigger boy motors?
Ideally, it's be great to swap out motors as needed to run this more often, but curious what feedback anyone has on the topic.
Thanks!
On a side note. I did have a few detailed conversations with Matt, owner of MIP about running puck system with mod motor. He felt that as long as you didn't go lower than a 10 turn motor it would perform fine. Which for me it has.
Hope that helps.
12-07-2016, 07:48 AM
I think I can help you with this. I ran a 10.5 tekin on a kyosho scr-sp with MIP plastic 1st gen plastic style puck slipper for over a year. Besides wearing out the plastic pucks more often then my rb6 running 17.5 with plastic pucks, it held up just fine. Your rb6 will hold up to the r10 no prob with aluminum pucks. And that motor is not too much motor for a the rb6 buggy. But with any mod motor the faster speeds and higher torque will cause more wear and tear and the crashes are generally harder. Causing more broken parts. I have had my rb6 with 17.5 for over a year and i have only broken 1 front arm. That is the 1 and only broken part. And I hit a wall on a fast straight so there was saying good reason for the break.
On a side note. I did have a few detailed conversations with Matt, owner of MIP about running puck system with mod motor. He felt that as long as you didn't go lower than a 10 turn motor it would perform fine. Which for me it has.
Hope that helps.
On a side note. I did have a few detailed conversations with Matt, owner of MIP about running puck system with mod motor. He felt that as long as you didn't go lower than a 10 turn motor it would perform fine. Which for me it has.
Hope that helps.
12-07-2016, 09:20 PM
Tech Rookie
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Last edited by metalry101; 12-07-2016 at 09:22 PM. Reason: wrong thread. stupid mobile site
12-10-2016, 09:57 AM
How is the wear/slop of the Kyosho RB6/.6 cars? Associated used to be pretty bad, but the B6 is much improved. TLR is pretty poor IMO. Do Kyosho parts stay nice and tight over time?
I'm thinking of getting the RB6.6 as a complement/stand-up 3-gear to my laydown B6 for when the track is looser.
I'm thinking of getting the RB6.6 as a complement/stand-up 3-gear to my laydown B6 for when the track is looser.
12-10-2016, 10:53 AM
I have a 6.6 standup. Has the best cornerspeed and steering of any of the standups I've had (b6, xb2, b5m)great choice. Much less slop than associated including the b6. Very hard plastics
How is the wear/slop of the Kyosho RB6/.6 cars? Associated used to be pretty bad, but the B6 is much improved. TLR is pretty poor IMO. Do Kyosho parts stay nice and tight over time?
I'm thinking of getting the RB6.6 as a complement/stand-up 3-gear to my laydown B6 for when the track is looser.
I'm thinking of getting the RB6.6 as a complement/stand-up 3-gear to my laydown B6 for when the track is looser.
12-10-2016, 01:54 PM
12-11-2016, 07:23 PM
Anyone have tips on making changes to the caster inserts? Broke a spindle and track only had exotek aluminum ones. They do not come with inserts. I cannot get my old 0 degree out of the broken spindle. So will be trying the 2 degree caster insert. Had questions on general caster settings anyhow. Anyone know how to get these out, have experience with exotek aluminum c hubs and just general tips/experiences with making changes at the c hub? Thx all
12-11-2016, 08:54 PM
The inserts are tight but they can usually be forced out of the stock caster block. I put the caster block over something that has a hollow spot like the webbing of an A-Arm to push tap them out. The inserts arent all that tight going into the exotek caster block, but they have a small grub screw to secure them.
12-11-2016, 09:26 PM
Exotek worthwhile? Thinking of just waiting for the carbon ones to be in stock. Wondering also how much weight this will add. Running stock this thing is a little porky but worth all the weight
The inserts are tight but they can usually be forced out of the stock caster block. I put the caster block over something that has a hollow spot like the webbing of an A-Arm to push tap them out. The inserts arent all that tight going into the exotek caster block, but they have a small grub screw to secure them.
12-11-2016, 10:48 PM
Only real need for the aluminum ones would be if you have an issue breaking the regular ones. I wouldn't do the carbon ones as they are the most fragile.
12-12-2016, 08:07 AM
Can anyone tell me which Kyosho wing this would be? Jared has been running it for quite some time (Reedy Race and his most recent race at Speed RC). You can see where the wing has a slight molded 'T' marking to help for alignment. It could be part# LA239, LA240, or LA241?
Part # would be appreciated! Thx!
Part # would be appreciated! Thx!
Last edited by skrichter; 12-12-2016 at 08:30 AM.
12-12-2016, 08:10 AM
Another view of the wing -- from this weekend at JC race @Speed RC
Last edited by skrichter; 12-12-2016 at 08:20 AM.