jcsfearless

So I brought my RB6.6 to the track today for the very first time. Bear in mind that this was my first time with anything but my 4x4 slash at a track, period. My thoughts on this are that in the right hands, with the right parts, this buggy is a BEAST. Unfortunately for me, my buggy wasn't equipped well enough to be competetive aaand I'm not that great at racing(yet, I hope). I was running a speed passion 17.5R motor and it just didnt give me the speed I needed. I race at the Ricochet RC track in El Centro CA. I found myself at full throttle almost 100% of the time on the track in order to barely keep up with the pack. I had it geared at 69/26 which kept me right around 130 degrees for the entirety of the race. (any hotter than that and the motor got noticeably unresponsive) After speaking to some of the other racers at the track I determined that my motor just isn't cutting it. One of the guys is running the tekin 17.5 motor and rs gen 2 esc and he told me he is almost always at half throttle except on the main straight. On the same track I was full throttle ALL THE TIME. I understand that gearing is still a factor but I truly think the motor is at it's limit. If I run it with 69/30 gearing it hits 150 in 5 minutes and by then is noticeably unresponsive. O also discovered that I was THE ONLY one who's wing rubbed the tires. I swore up and down that the wing would actually slow me down around the track because it would rub on turns and on some of the jumps. Everyone assured me that the rubbing is normal but it bothers me that of the 9 buggies on the track, only one (mine) seemed to have the wing rub the tires.

Sorry for this being long winded. If you made it this far my questions are below:
1. What can be done about the wing rubbing?
2. Are my settings wrong? (I used http://site.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho...field20160914/) as my baseline set up.
3. Anyone have any recommendations on a more durable wing? ( I know, I know, stop crashing =p)


Thank you for reading my gripe sesh and for any answers to my questions.

Also any tips and tricks are extremely welcome!

danny250r

iTrader: (58)

Does anyone make shock balls other then the cheap ass plastic ones kyosho gives you in this kit $400 for a kit and plastic shock balls and plastic shims all throu out this kit. Really kyosho. So far not to pleased with this build Hopefully will change when I get it on track 😏

eper

iTrader: (14)

Nothing wrong with the plastic balls and shims. Kyosho plastics are the best in the business. As far as replacements they sell them through many distributors

dmcguire

iTrader: (38)

jcsfearless, first thing, make sure the drivetrain is spinning completely free. Take the pinion off, pop the rear camber links off and spin the spur, the trans should be smooth. Each rear axle should spin smooth as well and check again after you tighten the wheels down. They could cause binding. Same up front. I run JC B5 wheels on the front and if you don't grind them out at the hex, they bind.

This past weekend I ran 17.5 geared at 69/31 with 50deg timing on a D4, never reached over 100. Make sure the motor is timed correctly also, not sure on the Speed Passions.

For the rear shocks, my RB5 used to do that, I just lived with it. But the setup you're running looks like the rear sits low and rolls. Just to try, I'd stand the rear shock up on the tower two holes and go to the medium rear shock bottom. See if that helps. You may have to run a slightly stiffer spring standing them up.I'm not sure what the AE springs are, but I usually run Orange or Yellow Kyosho on carpet and turf.

Hope this helps, but the big thing is make sure the car spins free.

jcsfearless

I will do this, thank you!


Update: Just checked and everything spins buttery smooth. I run strictly Kyosho front wheels. I have a set of proline wheels and they would bind as well since the hex is so deep on those wheels. I'm going to go ahead and pick up a different wing anyway since I have pretty much destroyed both of my wings lol.

Jack Smash

iTrader: (35)

Here you go:
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/58mm-Ha...cs_p_5151.html

JAE

iTrader: (30)

Get a new fantom motor . Last years model type M or RS is only $89. $10 off if you join the mailing list. Motors are ballistic at 69/30 with 46-49 degrees timing. Many opinions on motors but this is a huge value.a lot of people think I'm cheating with this motor
https://www.fantomracing.com/products.php?cat=17.5+Turn+v1+FR-1

jcsfearless

Mechanical timing?

likea45

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure with the geometry of this buggy how the wing is rubbing the rear wheels but make sure the wing mounts arent bent and secured properly.
As for the motor, on a freely spinning drivetrain the motor should be coming off under 120 unless there is an issue inside the can (bad bearing etc), or the motor timing is set too high. Do you know what your can timing is? People are always quick to assume the motors are to blame when their car is "slow" but most of the time it's indicative of a larger issue. Beyond the transmission, did you check the dog bones and axels to make sure they are spinning with no binding? Sometimes even a blown or improperly seated bearing can cause the motors to overwork.
Barring all of these things, I would see if you can borrow any other 17.5 from another racer and see if the car does the same thing. If so you know it's in the car.

My stocker is in standup 3 gear geared 69/32 and my motor comes off about 109* at 45* timing on a medium indoor clay track. Hope you figure out the issue.

draboyd19

iTrader: (30)

Hello all.

In the process of building up a starter RB6 for the 17.5 stocker class.

My question pertains to servos. I have a Trackstar TS-920 servo laying around the parts lot, but have not received the RB6 just yet so was wondering if that servo will fit in the buggy without any issues of clearance. I recall this servo didn't fit in some of the older AE stuff I had in the past.

It appears there is more room on an Rb6 for these taller servos, but didn't know if anyone had any experience in this area. I did a little research on the topic and nothing was specific about it.

Also, if anyone has any experience here, are any shims needed for this servo?

Thanks in advance to all.

LKF

assembly kyosho rb6.6 2nd part

When assembling, you must decide for a variant, which is dependent on the operational area and the route. In the manual, the work steps for each of the four variants are good On the illustrations self-explanatory. Screws and washers are shown at the edge on the scale 1: 1, but a measuring slide for checking helps in the search for the appropriate screw in case of doubt.

Rear gear
4-Gear center motor
3-Gear center motor
Laydown center motor

continue

jcsfearless

The issue was the timing. It was set way too high. Yesterday I turned it down to 4 degrees in the esc and timed a run for 5 minutes. I don't have any jumps but I basically pretended like I was going around the track on my street. It was cooler outside than it was inside the track so I'm assuming it contributed but my temp when I was done with the 5 minutes was about 115 degrees. This was also run using my 30 tooth pinion as well.

I don't have a motor analyzer so I will have to do some trial and error to find a decent spot for timing.

jcsfearless

I'm running a savox 1257tg black edition. Dimensions(mm): 40.3x20.2x37.2

I have my RB6 running the laydown 3 gear trans and I have the castle mmp esc in front of the battery. It's not too tight of a fit but I ended up having to stick my rx on top of the servo. All in all everything still fits pretty well.

JAE

iTrader: (30)

Timing on the motor only. For 17.5. May I ask why you are adjusting timing on the ESC? If you are racing a class that allows timing, I would just get a cheap mod motor 7.5t-10.5t and never worry about tuning/optimizing an expensive stock motor

likea45

iTrader: (2)

Yeah no ESC timing is allowed in stock 17.5 racing. ESC must be blinking. Motor timing adjustments only.