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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-06-2014, 07:40 PM
  #9721  
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Originally Posted by glenng
Can you or someone please post pic of how to get exotek eliminator to work with avid topshaft. Because i have both pieces and cant get it to fit. The exotek shaft that sticks out with the oval cutout is far too wide and sloppy to sit stable on the avid. I may be missing something, so not sure. Many thanks

Glenn
I believe that as long as you tighten the nut so that the adapter is centered, it should be no issue. You could also try putting some small diameter fuel tubing to help center it. I did notice what your describing on a spare MIP AE top shaft that I have on hand.

I tried the Speedtech hub, and it requires a bit of filing.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:09 PM
  #9722  
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Picking up my rb6 tomorrow from
A buddy at the track. Any set up tips or things to try that I may really like? I'm coming from my c4.2. This is mid motor also. High bite indoor clay track running 17.5. Gonna try shorty and saddles. I like a planted and "sluggish" car.
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Old 02-07-2014, 02:00 AM
  #9723  
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Originally Posted by gelshocker
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...xle-Conversion

'In order to use the stock RB6 rear wheels, you will need drill them out to fit over the larger axle. Avid recommends a body reamer from the inside and it will do the job nicely. AVID HD Long Axles can only be used with AVID HD Rear Hex Adapters.'
Hi, I did ream them out from the inside, and the hex (Avid Adapter) sit nicely inside the rims. Problem is when i tightened the wheel nut i do believe that the Kyosho rims parts that hold the Avid hex touch the bearing.

ciao,
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:25 AM
  #9724  
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Originally Posted by lore
Hi, I did ream them out from the inside, and the hex (Avid Adapter) sit nicely inside the rims. Problem is when i tightened the wheel nut i do believe that the Kyosho rims parts that hold the Avid hex touch the bearing.

ciao,
I had the same issue on my rb5, nothing I did helped, tried shims everywhere. Eventually I filed the stock hexes hole out just enough to fit over the avid axle and that worked, its like the pin recess on the avid hex was too deep and the axle was as far out as it could go.
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:45 AM
  #9725  
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After running a used RB6 I got from the world famous Big Wave Dave I decided to order a new kit. The kit I got from Dave was far better than detailed however it came as roller with parts to convert between mid and rear motor I was missing stock pistons, small med and large shock bottoms aside from what was installed so it left me feeling like I wanted a lot of stock kit parts I wanted but did not have.

I have really enjoyed the buggy so I am going to buy a new one and have all the parts . I am looking to get it from here http://siteground235.com/~winners4/a...e43c5c&x=0&y=0 but was wanting to see if you guys know of a cheaper place? I have dealt with Lee before in buying my MP9 and at the time could not find another for the price.

Make sure you call him to get price on rear hubs, ti screws and other accessories as they are not posted on his site.

Not trying to make this sound like an ad just making sure I am getting the best deal as I make the best use of my tax return
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:55 AM
  #9726  
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Originally Posted by MCSEDanny
After running a used RB6 I got from the world famous Big Wave Dave I decided to order a new kit. The kit I got from Dave was far better than detailed however it came as roller with parts to convert between mid and rear motor I was missing stock pistons, small med and large shock bottoms aside from what was installed so it left me feeling like I wanted a lot of stock kit parts I wanted but did not have.

I have really enjoyed the buggy so I am going to buy a new one and have all the parts . I am looking to get it from here http://siteground235.com/~winners4/a...e43c5c&x=0&y=0 but was wanting to see if you guys know of a cheaper place? I have dealt with Lee before in buying my MP9 and at the time could not find another for the price.

Make sure you call him to get price on rear hubs, ti screws and other accessories as they are not posted on his site.

Not trying to make this sound like an ad just making sure I am getting the best deal as I make the best use of my tax return
Work blocks that site as spam/virus... Good luck...
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:00 AM
  #9727  
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Originally Posted by whitrzac
Work blocks that site as spam/virus... Good luck...
They have it price at $400.
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:34 AM
  #9728  
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Originally Posted by MCSEDanny
They have it price at $400.
Check Banzai Hobby. With EMS shipping their price is about $380.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:01 AM
  #9729  
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will the LA272 rear arms work on this car?
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:03 AM
  #9730  
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Originally Posted by 1967rs
will the LA272 rear arms work on this car?
Yes but only the rear. They are the same as the 521 arms, it is the two hole rear arm. If you need two hole rear arms and also have a ZX5 this is the way to buy them, because I only break front arms on my 4wd and rears on my 2wd. I have a pile of 521 front arms, anybody need them, lol?
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:09 AM
  #9731  
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Originally Posted by 1967rs
will the LA272 rear arms work on this car?
Yes they will,

The shock mount hole(s) isn't like the 521-1, but close enough. I use those (272) on mine right now. Seems to be working. You'll need the outer hinge pin from the ZX5/RB5 or you can ream out the one side of the arm a little and use the RB6 outer pin. If you do that, you'll need to add a 2mm shim to both sides of the RB6 pin as the 272/521/521-1 arms are a little narrower than the RB6 arm.
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:18 AM
  #9732  
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha
I believe that as long as you tighten the nut so that the adapter is centered, it should be no issue. You could also try putting some small diameter fuel tubing to help center it. I did notice what your describing on a spare MIP AE top shaft that I have on hand.

I tried the Speedtech hub, and it requires a bit of filing.
Yea i was imagining exotek hub may be able to get pinned down nicely to the avid via the diameter in the back of the plate. I took off the kyosho brass spacer and thought i could push the hub up onto that thicker part of shaft (and then figure out how much to shim remainder of where brass spacer once was), however the hubs inside diameter in back of the plate was too small to get on the shaft and would require it to be bored out to 5mm (i think). And without getting it dead center would result in wobbly spur. So im gonna wait till march for the rb6 specific hub.
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:44 AM
  #9733  
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Originally Posted by glenng
Yea i was imagining exotek hub may be able to get pinned down nicely to the avid via the diameter in the back of the plate. I took off the kyosho brass spacer and thought i could push the hub up onto that thicker part of shaft (and then figure out how much to shim remainder of where brass spacer once was), however the hubs inside diameter in back of the plate was too small to get on the shaft and would require it to be bored out to 5mm (i think). And without getting it dead center would result in wobbly spur. So im gonna wait till march for the rb6 specific hub.
Mine fit on fine, it sticks out too far so the gear cover doesn't fit, I practiced with it anyway, worked fine. I am going to file down the back part so it sits closer to the back plate like it should, this will also give more threads on the lock nut.
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:42 PM
  #9734  
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I had a few laps today and the stock plastic shocks are still holding up, and that's good. A question, i have a turnigy nanotech 5800 mah full size hard pack and its really tight fit in the battery tray. How do you guys fit the battery with the battery strap on? It just too damn tight and i can barely put in the clip to the post.

Last edited by mog ruith; 02-07-2014 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:24 PM
  #9735  
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[QUOTE=MikeXray;12985917]Mine fit on fine, it sticks out too far so the gear cover doesn't fit, I practiced with it anyway, worked fine. I am going to file down the back part so it sits closer to the back plate like it should, this will also give more threads on the lock nut.[/QUOTE


Interesting. Was it just the behind the backplate part that fit? Or u even got a snug fit on front shaft part? If its the backplate part, maybe i need to try again and squeeze it on harder. I dont like putting too much pressure on the shaft out of fear of bending it. Also, did u have to remove the kyosho brass spacer? And if so did u shim the gap? And was the behind backplate fitment really snug/tight requiring force? Thanks Mike!
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