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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-09-2013, 08:56 AM
  #6736  
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I will check tonight and send you a pm......
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason.Dias
These? LAW32
Quick question. In your setup sheet which brand of the slipper eliminator hub are you using? I have both the speedtech and the customworks one with avid top shaft. Did you machine your kyosho one?
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:20 AM
  #6738  
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Hmm... Looks nice!!
New RB6 Alum goodies from RDRP

https://www.facebook.com/pages/REVOL...38618482913017
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:29 AM
  #6739  
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Originally Posted by umm winning
@ Cpt. America - With the 12.5mm Hi torque rotor in a Revtech 17.5 does it really bring it to life, compared to a regular Revtech 17.5 w/ a stock rotor and full timing?
Thanks.
It does, but it certainly isn't necessary. We run a 12.3BP in Rachael's RB6, and her car seems just as fast overall as with the high-torque. The more "point and shoot" your layout is, the more the HT rotor will help you. Iv been on some tracks where you have to flip a 180 and get heavy on the gas to make it over a quick jump... the HT rotor really helps in those situations, and can really measure out a faster laptime. On a more sweeping track? Nah, it won't affect your lap times much I wouldn't think.

Originally Posted by silvalis
Brandon, is the battery tiedown strap you are using the kyosho rb5 carbon one cut down? umw503? Any issues with it moving?
Yes exactly.. just a cut down rb5 strap. You need to run the posts in the wider holes in the chassis (looks like they are designed for the rb5 strap). They are slightly farther back, which works perfectly for ditching the rear shelf... I run RB5 battery posts, shimmed up 4mm, with locnuts.

I run the locknuts, and not the thumbscrews, because part of keeping the chassis flexing right, is making sure the battery isn't held down to the chassis. So with the locknuts, you can keep them semi-loose so that the battery strap floats a little bit, and its just tight enough to keep the battery from hopping out of the tray, but loose enough so it's not being pinched, hindering chassis flex.

Originally Posted by pekow91
I did the same. It holds well and I think it looks a lot cleaner than the stock or exotek setup.
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:15 PM
  #6740  
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I'm surprised MikeR of Exotek hasn't made a new hinge pin brace for the RB6
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:23 PM
  #6741  
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Im sure the hingepin brace is next on their list.
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:53 PM
  #6742  
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I hope it has threaded holes so it latches onto their front bulkhead. The bulkhead had matching holes already where the brace sits always wonder what they are for.
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:57 PM
  #6743  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Well, I'v been running the same Alu-0s for the last 2 years (got them for my rb5, and moved them to my rb6), and they look and feel like they did the day I bought them. Bearing fit is still 100% snug... and I typcaly put in about 15-20+ packs a week, with some weeks reaching 40.

Ran the same 0s on my SC for almost a year (not nearly as much run time), but they were old used ones I got on a different car. They were old blue ones where somebody actually scraped off all the annodizing. they looked like hell from all the use, but the bearing fit/finish/feel was still 100% plush.

So yes... from my experience, they don't wear. (at least at the bearings... they might wear after a long while at the hingepin).
Hmmm maybe it's just me...but then again, why would they fix something that isn't broken? Like I said, wear in the buggy really isn't too bad. Mod SCT is rough on them.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:25 AM
  #6744  
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
Quick question. In your setup sheet which brand of the slipper eliminator hub are you using? I have both the speedtech and the customworks one with avid top shaft. Did you machine your kyosho one?
I used a custom method with pencil erasers with no slipper pads locking the disks down.

However now I use the avid triad system with some custom 64p avid spur gears.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason.Dias
I used a custom method with pencil erasers with no slipper pads locking the disks down.

However now I use the avid triad system with some custom 64p avid spur gears.
Oh nice! Any advantages to using the 64 from avid other than getting motor close to the axle?
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:32 PM
  #6746  
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My rb6 is for sale with every aluminum piece you want/ need. Just FYI.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:21 PM
  #6747  
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
Oh nice! Any advantages to using the 64 from avid other than getting motor close to the axle?
Efficiency, finer gear ratio tuning, smoother feel

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Old 05-11-2013, 02:34 AM
  #6748  
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Just after some people’s opinions as I am thinking of swapping over form my TLR 22 to an RB6 and wondering the pros and cons of do this in regards to how the RB6 handles to a 22?

Also is there anything people recommend doing to the car while building it?
Thanks
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Old 05-11-2013, 05:26 AM
  #6749  
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that question has been asked on this forum since page 2.. i think everyone who made that upgrade has been happy the got rid of the 22.
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Old 05-11-2013, 05:57 AM
  #6750  
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Originally Posted by eper
that question has been asked on this forum since page 2.. i think everyone who made that upgrade has been happy the got rid of the 22.
You are sooooooo right on this.
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