Tom87

iTrader: (3)

If your looking for forward traction, look at rear toe, shorter wheelbase, softer spring with more up right shock.

If you need more rear side bite, narrow hangers, 0 anti squat, longer rear upper link (out side hole on aluminum hubs or the um519-2 plastic hubs or closed cell front inserts.

This car can steer like a b4 or understeer like a xxxcr/rb5. It depends on how you set it up. My personal experience is more steering = faster even when the car is harder to drive. For me it's about having more steering then neutral but still being able to run consistent.

Dale.0

iTrader: (2)

He first few races on my RB6 I had tons of steering. I don't know what happened but I lost all the steering and can't get it back.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Did you come from an RB5?

HalfManHalfGod

I had some of the same problems.

My track is minimal traction with black top soil.

First setup was the Japan all around setup that had no rear traction and was very hard to drive until I just changed to the narrow hangers. That really locked in the rear but took away a lot of the steering. What was actually happening with the wide hangers the rear end would give way and cause the rear end spin around. Just a tad to much power and the car would hook around. It was very unpredictable. Trying to steer with the rear end was very difficult but I could do it in practice but in race when I was trying to go fast proved to inconsistent.

So I switched to the Japan setup with narrow hangs and the car was a totally different animal. Good mix of side bite and forward bit but the car would push horribly. I let more experienced drivers of Losi and AE take it for a test drive and they all liked it but their comments where that it wouldn't steer. I even went to the extremes of the lowest roll center I could get in the front and the highest roll center I could get in the rear with narrow hangers.

Low roll center front = oversteer.
High roll center rear = oversteer.

but I still couldn't get it to steer.

So this lead me a quest to learn about chassis physics. I was going to marry the 2 builds and come away with a more balanced car.

My current build is my own and I think i'm on to something. I went back to wide rear hangers, shimmed the rear arms forward 2mm and the rear hubs forward 3mm(short wheel base). Rear camber link outer hole shock tower side 2m, inner hole hub side 0 shims. This basically counter balances the wide hangers that give the rear a much higher roll center then just adjusting cambers links. This still lets the rear get loose but not nearly as bad and in someways still feels like the narrow hanger but with steering. Even to the point it feels twitchy. So now i've got a car that has steering and rear traction. Still going to play with kickup and caster to calm to car a bit more. But if you know what changing something on this car does you can make it behave anyway you want.

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

What front tyres were you using?

Jetboat_Jake

iTrader: (3)

Was a pretty solid intermediate stock runner with 4.2. got the kyosho last week, raced tonight got first and my tq time was so good they are trying to bump me into expert lol

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

What is everyone doing to get more steering on low-medium bite/ dusty tracks? Currently using gold rear springs on the third hole out and pink fronts in the middle. Both are using the outside hole. Killer forward bite, but I could use more steering and more consistent rotation. Green pressure point rear green barcode front.

Kellen Guthrie

iTrader: (2)

If you want it to rotate better and be more forgiving then raise the rear roll center by either adding ballstud washers on the outside or taking them away on the inside. You can also try shortening the rear turnbuckle link as well. Both of these will take away rear grip giving you more steering. If you still need more steering go to red springs in the rear.

Kellen Guthrie

iTrader: (2)

Are you practicing tomorrow?

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

ever tried using jconcepts rips or aka 3ribs?
Or groovy/ PL 4rib/losi wide ribs?

Im using hole shot 2wd fronts atm. They push more than ribs, less than barcodes.

lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

You were driving great tonight Jake...I think you are ready for expert . Your Kyosho was handling good.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Shorter rear link and/or longer front has been working for me.

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Never would've thought to try a ribbed tire.

toyota 2jz

iTrader: (21)

someone please correct me if im wrong! the wide rear end will make the car more unstable? and the narrow rear end will make the car hook up in the rear?his is weird because in my rb5 wc the wide rear end was where its at! that thing was locked with the right rear camber link position! so with all that being said..is this car worth the money? i do not want to hear biased opinions because you have one! need to know if i will regret it later on!

photopro

Thanks again for everyone's help. I can't post the setup, but I will as soon as I can. To answer some of your questions.
Track is indoor hard packed, dry clay with clean surface (we sweep it between heats)
I'm running .5 rear hubs
White rear springs, 27.5wt, 3rd hole on tower from outside
Front is wide track, 25+4 and no shim under nose. Minimal rear anti squat.
Front shocks with 35 wt, stock spring and position.
Shorty all the way back. Orion r10 pro in rear bulkhead.
Shorty servo
Rear camber links have 2mm shim outer, 1mm inner
Front camber links are short and have 1mm under inner stud and 1mm out.
2mm under outer steering link for bump steer. None inner.
As I said before, closed cell foams made the car undriveable. Running suburbs. Changing to open cell helped a lot, but honestly, I'm shocked at how difficult it is to keep under control. By far, the most difficult car to drive out of my lot.

Brushless Mugen MBX6t
Losi 5ive on 12s
X-ray t3 2012
Tekno sct410