ryanpatrickgore

iTrader: (14)

Haven't broken anything yet. Just warped the front 30* block a bit and the stock front pin retainer bends after a while. Losi xxx is cheaper and never bends.
I wouldn't waste this car on an 8yr old. Give her the b4 or te 22. no parts needed other than stock. Amazing huh?

Posvar

iTrader: (470)

It bends too...don't ask me how I know. It takes a while but it will bend as well.

BIGTIME

iTrader: (116)

Need a little help here.

Just finished the build and was wondering how tight should the diff nut be? When I spin the tires in different directions at the same time (one going forward the other going backwards) the tires rotate 1.5 turns before stoping.
Is this tight enough before I start the diff break in?

Nasty N8

iTrader: (31)

http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...ed-tebo-video/

sir_thomas

iTrader: (9)

I know mid motor is super hot right now, but I've been working on a setup for the rear motor RB6 that uses ALL RB6 PARTS. I'm tired of buying old gen car parts to put on my new car so I came up with this with the help of my buddy Shaun.

I don't feel that the 521-1 are faster than the RB6 arms...maybe they feel easier to drive, but slower on the clock for the most part.

Try the whole setup and let me know what you guys think. Adjust ballstud washers accordingly to your tire and grip level. Rear shock length is off the top of my head, but basically all the way up with the longest shock bottom.

Feel free to ask questions if you have em.

Thomas

Dale.0

iTrader: (2)

deleted I will rephrase the question

kyle3333

iTrader: (1)

What are the part numbers for the mid motor config aluminum arm carriers?

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Those aren't mutually exclusive. There are RF2 (Rear Front) plastic and aluminum hangers . Check out post #1

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

I start my break in with the diff at it's LOOSEST setting. The second the diff is tight enough to give diff action (two outdrives spinning opposite directions with the diff gear held). I break it in over and over, as I tighten the diff 1/2 turn at a time.

Break in
1/2 turn
Break in
1/2 turn

etc... etc.. until the diff is where you want it. Once it's set (tight enough so it doesn't slip). Run the car for a half pack or so, and recheck... usually needs another 1/16th turn or so after driving the car. (if memory serves)

YMMV

Dale.0

iTrader: (2)

Is there a reason to run the plastic rear suspension holders, instead of the aluminum ones?

mkorn

After trying multiple ways of building ball diffs the best way I've found by far is:

Use 220 grit sandpaper wet with WD-40 on drive rings. Polish them until perfectly smooth and even. They will appear scratched but this is what you want. Use a piece of glass to keep sandpaper flat.

Build diff with plenty of grease.

Tighten diff beyond what you would want for ideal driving setting by half a turn or so with the slipper a little loose

Run half a battery then loosen diff to normal race setting and tighten slipper to appropriate setting

Using this method I have had my ball diffs last for months of use and they stay silky smooth. I've even taken them apart just to add grease and reassemble without new parts because they lasted so long.

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

I reckon the plastic hangers plus metal bushings are slightly more free than the metal hangers and white delrin bushings...

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

They're included with the kit. If you don't care about the fancy matching gunmetal parts, get the STRC blocks, but they're only available in the narrow configuration. I don't think anybody but Kyo$ho makes the alloy wider blocks.

sir_thomas

iTrader: (9)

There is no performance gain...just bling'd parts that is always on back order. The only slight gain is durability...however, I've seen people wreck the alum. rf2 block as well.....just bend the corner enough to pop the hinge pin out.

The plastic part is fine as long as you use the plastic inserts. The metal inserts wear out the plastic susp holders really fast and within a few packs you get a-arm slop.

Theroc

iTrader: (5)

Thomas,

I switched to a similar setup last week.(Dunlap helped me out) Anyway its about 95% the same as your current setup. This setup is better (for me) than the one using rb5 arms, I feel its more consistant.

So if any of you want to try Trans setup... I would. 3 of us at our local track have switched to it from the TEBO variation and pefer it.

Some asked about the plastic sus holders, They are suppose to provide more flex than the alum. I switced to those about month ago with no issues of breaking. I will switch to plastic inserts though.

Anyway T if you get a chance come down to NW and run with us!! Hit up Shawn he has been down quite a bit.

Rocky