172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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02-16-2013, 10:55 AM
#5221
31/72 was my sweet spot for d3.5 blinky.
I need lots of torque for my track tho. Timing at 5* more than the stock 30* baseline setting
Last edited by ryanpatrickgore; 02-16-2013 at 10:59 AM. Reason: Add timing
02-16-2013, 10:58 AM
#5222
Tech Initiate
Just to make sure I'm not crazy here, the manual has you build the front end wide right? I've had people tell me they run narrow "like the manual" but the eccentric needs to be pointing away from the kingpin to be narrow, that moves the whole chub in. Manual has the hole furthest away from the kingpin which widens the track...
Also, does anyone know why Tebo runs the 521-1 as opposed to the 2hole WC- arms? I think the 2-hole are UM521....
02-16-2013, 04:19 PM
#5224
I had my first race night with the car, I had intended to run back to back with my b4.1 but didn't have that car ready. Overall the car is very very good, the steering balance is great and the car pretty much does what you tell it too. I did have an issue, and I'm not alone, with the "rythm" section and the car not absorbing the bumps well, I added some droop which helped, but my feeling is that I need a slightly different shock package, this sections my B4 actually handles better, so maybe some more pack (2x1.6 vs 5hole in kyo, both with 35wt).
I was able to take off .4ths from my last run, I believe conditions were a little bit better which counted for some of it. I found that running the 521 arms and narrow blocks with the stock hub, I needed the inside hole to match the hole people with the alum hubs were running. This added a good bit of rotation without getting loose. I still need to pick up some .5 hubs. I ran proline rims without issue as well, I used the stock nut with nylon for the front and low profile serrated on the rear.
I was able to take off .4ths from my last run, I believe conditions were a little bit better which counted for some of it. I found that running the 521 arms and narrow blocks with the stock hub, I needed the inside hole to match the hole people with the alum hubs were running. This added a good bit of rotation without getting loose. I still need to pick up some .5 hubs. I ran proline rims without issue as well, I used the stock nut with nylon for the front and low profile serrated on the rear.
02-17-2013, 06:05 AM
#5225
Hey guys, please need your help. Setting the diff? Do you completely collaps then turn it back 1/8, 1/4? etc?. Also, would it be normal to rebuilt my RB6 diff if i have a total of about 16 rounds of hard racing on inside carpet track. thanks.
02-17-2013, 09:22 AM
#5226
That's how I set my diff usually set between 1/8 and 1/4. I only rebuild when it feels gritty and not smooth like it did when I last built one.. 16 races on carpet.... It might be time?
02-17-2013, 11:18 AM
#5227
No... bottoming out the screw and then backing it back off some arbitrary amount is how you put a dent in your rings and/or diff balls. You start very very very loose, and then slowly tighten the diff 1/2 turn to 1/4 turn at a time, and do a small break-in between each step.
02-17-2013, 04:41 PM
#5228
On patite rc, can anyone see Cody Turners latest set up?
02-17-2013, 05:38 PM
#5229
02-17-2013, 05:44 PM
#5230
I had my first race night with the car, I had intended to run back to back with my b4.1 but didn't have that car ready. Overall the car is very very good, the steering balance is great and the car pretty much does what you tell it too. I did have an issue, and I'm not alone, with the "rythm" section and the car not absorbing the bumps well, I added some droop which helped, but my feeling is that I need a slightly different shock package, this sections my B4 actually handles better, so maybe some more pack (2x1.6 vs 5hole in kyo, both with 35wt).
I was able to take off .4ths from my last run, I believe conditions were a little bit better which counted for some of it. I found that running the 521 arms and narrow blocks with the stock hub, I needed the inside hole to match the hole people with the alum hubs were running. This added a good bit of rotation without getting loose. I still need to pick up some .5 hubs. I ran proline rims without issue as well, I used the stock nut with nylon for the front and low profile serrated on the rear.
I was able to take off .4ths from my last run, I believe conditions were a little bit better which counted for some of it. I found that running the 521 arms and narrow blocks with the stock hub, I needed the inside hole to match the hole people with the alum hubs were running. This added a good bit of rotation without getting loose. I still need to pick up some .5 hubs. I ran proline rims without issue as well, I used the stock nut with nylon for the front and low profile serrated on the rear.
02-17-2013, 06:07 PM
#5232
Ok so I got sidetracked a little. After 5 months 10 days I finally got the 6 on the track 
FWIW:
- the chassis underside the gearbox dented
- the stock front hinge pin holder bent (very easily, and so did the spare)
- the stock steering brace did not break
- the rear upper hub plate (ball stud carrier) did not break. I used nut under ball stud and grub screws in empty holes
- front inner ball stud popped out (dang! first time ever)
Compared to rb5:
- the 6 is WAY easier to handle. More stable and flies much better. More planted.
- turns WAY better.
- I feel it lacks rear bite, or maybe because its feels more stable that it 'appears' laidback and lackluster. After checking lap times both were comparable, meaning there is greater envelope to really push this car. I did slightly hold back in fear of breaking the known issues.
- it feels less aggressive, which may or may not be ideal. Feels less 'urgency' in getting round the track.
Japan setup with 0.5 hubs, shorty pack in middle, 1590g. First time I felt like I was driving a car and not fighting it like I had been with the rb5. As a newbie, this car is maybe too easy to drive! It's like it will autocorrect your mistakes both on the floor and in the air. I will definitely keep the rb5 to continue honing some proper 2wd driving skills!
One guy said I was outrunning a 1/8 nitro it was so smooooooth. I was LOLing on the drivers' stand!
FWIW:
- the chassis underside the gearbox dented
- the stock front hinge pin holder bent (very easily, and so did the spare)
- the stock steering brace did not break
- the rear upper hub plate (ball stud carrier) did not break. I used nut under ball stud and grub screws in empty holes
- front inner ball stud popped out (dang! first time ever)
Compared to rb5:
- the 6 is WAY easier to handle. More stable and flies much better. More planted.
- turns WAY better.
- I feel it lacks rear bite, or maybe because its feels more stable that it 'appears' laidback and lackluster. After checking lap times both were comparable, meaning there is greater envelope to really push this car. I did slightly hold back in fear of breaking the known issues.
- it feels less aggressive, which may or may not be ideal. Feels less 'urgency' in getting round the track.
Japan setup with 0.5 hubs, shorty pack in middle, 1590g. First time I felt like I was driving a car and not fighting it like I had been with the rb5. As a newbie, this car is maybe too easy to drive! It's like it will autocorrect your mistakes both on the floor and in the air. I will definitely keep the rb5 to continue honing some proper 2wd driving skills!
One guy said I was outrunning a 1/8 nitro it was so smooooooth. I was LOLing on the drivers' stand!
My RB6 is twice as aggressive as my RB5.
02-17-2013, 06:40 PM
#5235
Or maybe my rb5's setup is erratic like a bull in china shop, aggressive in an otherwise manner! 
Personally I feel the rb6 more responsive, but within a more predictable, controlled window. I wasn't having to fight the car.
Cpt., I agree with most of what you post on the first page, and the wide/narrow explanation has helped with my rb5 too - thanks. The rb5 is very easy to drive.. slow. To make it fast I've had to push it beyond its comfort zone, which leads to more mistakes. My 2 cents. Cheers!
Personally I feel the rb6 more responsive, but within a more predictable, controlled window. I wasn't having to fight the car. Cpt., I agree with most of what you post on the first page, and the wide/narrow explanation has helped with my rb5 too - thanks. The rb5 is very easy to drive.. slow. To make it fast I've had to push it beyond its comfort zone, which leads to more mistakes. My 2 cents. Cheers!