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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-12-2013, 09:13 AM
  #5131  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Sounds to me like you're using inferior tools, no offense.
Originally Posted by Lonestar
sorry to disagree... I use the right tools (EDS+Hudy),
Get yourself an MIP/Thorp 2mm hex driver, and wrench on your kyosho (or any other kit for that matter), and come back and re-report. I bet your opinion changes

Originally Posted by Lonestar
PS: Brandon did you ever get that kit or not?
The Schumacher?! Damn skippy!! Just incredible... (I thought I emailed you? if not, sorry about that, mate! iv been overly busy)
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:44 AM
  #5132  
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thanks Brandon

Last edited by Trevor Williams; 02-12-2013 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:08 AM
  #5133  
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EDS strip real easy...Tried Hudy and they were not that good either. Only wrench in my box is an MIP . Dont use ball ends or power wrenches when assembling...it will strip.

I worked in the hobby shop for 4 years at OCRC and West Coast and the only wrench I use to build kits is an MIP. Kyosho screws are much higher quality than most companies.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:11 AM
  #5134  
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Second that MIP or have to break out the screw extractor bit. Kyosho is the only plastic which is perfect for power tools with clutches IMHO. Xray is so stiff it chews up and strips everything(predrill with a cap head m3 works best for me). Losi is so bad it just spins and melts.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:29 AM
  #5135  
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Originally Posted by lbckevin
EDS strip real easy...Tried Hudy and they were not that good either. Only wrench in my box is an MIP . Dont use ball ends or power wrenches when assembling...it will strip.

I worked in the hobby shop for 4 years at OCRC and West Coast and the only wrench I use to build kits is an MIP. Kyosho screws are much higher quality than most companies.
Agreed. MIPs are fantastic.
(And especially about using ball drivers; only use them if you can't access the screw any other way)


Allen
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:37 AM
  #5136  
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Originally Posted by t8rtot
+100
i've stripped screws on just about every other brand at one time or another, but after building two KYO's and rebuilding them 10x's over, their all in perfect shape.

what tools are you using?
Hudy but it is a bit old. My fault probably for not being careful enough. I do love MIP/Thorpe. Buying them now instead of Hudy.
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:14 PM
  #5137  
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
First night with the new rb6! The car was great, felt so smooth and plush. I instantly felt good with it and got some lap times that were better than I thought I would get tonight, and didn't break anything. I used Brandon's setup (thanks), but with stock pistons 37.5/32.5. I might go lighter for oils as I bounced around a little bit.
I am sold on Kyosho! I will post pics of the car tomorrow
There were about 2-3 people yesterday at TRCR that tried there rb6 for the first time. They all were sold on it pretty quick.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:11 PM
  #5138  
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Originally Posted by Conti027
There were about 2-3 people yesterday at TRCR that tried there rb6 for the first time. They all were sold on it pretty quick.
That's great news.. and that is saying a lot considering TRCR is a die-hard AE track... owned by Team Driver Scott Brown, and with 3 or 4 national level AE team drivers that race there on a weekly basis...

K team driver Ryan Matesa is usually in attendance who can help get their cars dialed in. (and im no guru, but im always happy to help with setups as well).
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:18 PM
  #5139  
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come down to Top Gear Hobbies... its Team K down here!! lol
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
That's great news.. and that is saying a lot considering TRCR is a die-hard AE track... owned by Team Driver Scott Brown, and with 3 or 4 national level AE team drivers that race there on a weekly basis...

K team driver Ryan Matesa is usually in attendance who can help get their cars dialed in. (and im no guru, but im always happy to help with setups as well).
I'm hoping to be picking up the rb6 myself pretty soon.
A lot of AE stuff and drivers at TRCR but everyone is extremely nice and helpful.
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:02 PM
  #5141  
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Originally Posted by Conti027
I'm hoping to be picking up the rb6 myself pretty soon.
A lot of AE stuff and drivers at TRCR but everyone is extremely nice and helpful.
damn straight... nobody does it better than Scott Brown and his crew at TRCR.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:30 PM
  #5142  
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Originally Posted by MBUCK
Hudy but it is a bit old. My fault probably for not being careful enough. I do love MIP/Thorpe. Buying them now instead of Hudy.
Funny story,
My buddy was taking off his shock at a race recentely and he was complaining that he stripped his screw (He was using a losi 2.0). Well I use a MIP 2.0, I've had for 18 years now and its been known to get screws out some other tools just can't. I went over to his car and unscrewed it no problem, screw wasn't even stripped, his 2.0 was just crap. His driver was stripped, in compassion I couldn't believe his was actually a 2.0. He had this losi tool for less then 2 years.

Seriously 18 years and I've built quite a few cars with it, it still works like new it's amazing!

MIP or nothing when it comes to tools
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:53 PM
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And I just sold my mip thorp drivers last month.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:34 PM
  #5144  
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Originally Posted by Posvar
And I just sold my mip thorp drivers last month.
Why in the world?
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:52 PM
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