MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Now apply the "traction curve" to slip angles and contact patch

When using a rpm type camber gauge what do you find is the best way to measure camber consistently, rims with no tires? obviously once wheels/tires are run they can deflect..

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

aahhh yes, slip angles... that's another day

Ya know, I have tried 3 different ways to measure camber. 1. on-road setup wheels and fixed tamiya on-road camber gauge, 2. hudy off-road setup station, and 3. plastic rpm gauge up against the tire.

My favorite, is using on-road setup wheels with my on-road gauge. Where I really see a difference, is in the rear of the car. With the setup wheels on, I can measure -1 camber. If I toss the tires back on the car and measure with the RPM, I am usually at 0. Considering the bottom of the tire should be "squished out" more, you would think that it would read something more like -2... but it doesn't. I'm not sure why the big difference.... anybody know? (I admit, I haven't spent much time thinking about it).

(edit: now that I think about it, i guess it would be happening because of how the car is being set down onto the surface. If the outer edge of the tire hits first (at the bottom), it could pull the top of the hub/tire outwards, throwing off the measurement. I bet if you pulled the bottom of the tire outwards when you settle the car, you would get -1 as well... ill have to experiment at the track )

noworries

iTrader: (42)

I went from wide to narrow. Just a very minor difference but more locked down. I like it

noworries

iTrader: (42)

69 spur 33 pinion blinky mode on a tight track i found to be the best. I also added the associated slipper/kimbrough spur and much better

noworries

iTrader: (42)

Echo that. I have built lots of shocks. It is a pleasure to sit and build Kyosho shocks.

noworries

iTrader: (42)

I was lucky enough to find mine factory sealed on Ebay for $398.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

For turnbuckles I chuck the ball cup in a drill. Then I hold the turnbuckle with a wrench and slowly turn the drill on. The drill turns the ball cup, obviously, and the turnbuckle threads together nicely.

Now nobody steal my idea and submit it to Car Action. I need that free subscription or whatever they are offering these days for reader submitted tips.

ChadBlanton

iTrader: (1)

I'm running the Avid slipper and I really like it - except it seems I've got it tightened down almost to the end of the spring (if that makes since) - in other words the spring is almost fully collapsed. It's 17.5 blinky mode, and it almost needs to be even tighter ... is the spring worn out already?

Anyone else experience this yet?

Just1More

iTrader: (11)

Make sure it's assembled correctly. Or disassemble and look for wear on all surfaces of the pads that touch a moving plate, it sounds like you have a shim or washer in the wrong spot so you're only using 1-2 of the 3 pads. My Triad works great with tons of adjustment room left.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

With my B4 pads.... my lock nut is tightened down 98% of the way. I wonder if my spring is wearing out already?

JiuHaWong

I do the same thing. I got tired of trying to do it by hand.

mdowney

iTrader: (21)

New setups posted on kyoshoamerica.com

Jared Tebo's 2013 Reedy Race RB6 setup

Atsushi Hara's 2013 Reedy Race RB6 Mid-motor setup

Jared Tebo's 2013 Reedy Race Lazer ZX-5 SP setup

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

What is the best way to set the slipper on stock ? I've been having trouble setting my avid correctly, just guessing and adjusting on the track. Don't want to do a clamp-nose-lift as I'll probably burn my 17.5 out...

X God

iTrader: (3)

Can someone tell me what the advantage or purpose of running the RB5 front spindles is. Thanks

ChadBlanton

iTrader: (1)

... yep, I've been doing the same thing trying to get it just right. The trouble is you can't hear your car w/ all the other cars and noise, ect ...