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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-22-2013, 06:31 PM
  #4591  
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Originally Posted by BranVita
So looking at the MIP CVD's for the Rb6, I noticed the locknuts are now SaE instead of the Metric Locknut? Thats kind of a bummer.

http://miponline.com/store/mip12141.html
Haha mip fail! Kyosho and sae...... Haha

Doesnt really bother me because every rc racer has a 1/16 to change out pinions gears. Still a fail tho.
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:20 PM
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I am putting my RB6 together and notice my rear b4 tires don't fit very well, the nut won't go down very far. Anyone else notice this or did I do something wrong? Also, how much of the front b4 tire has to be dremmeled?
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:34 PM
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Results of too much time and extra carbon fiber, not perfect but it'll do
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:35 PM
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no, that's normal. Use serrated nuts instead, or just buy proper kyosho wheels.
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
#99010 NUT/ M4 x .7 Steel Locknut (6)
$3.50 691545990101

Dont think they would do that to us! I ordered mine still not shipped from MIP.
Originally Posted by cnelson3
Haha mip fail! Kyosho and sae...... Haha

Doesnt really bother me because every rc racer has a 1/16 to change out pinions gears. Still a fail tho.

I guess its not a HUGE issue, guess we just gotta carry a extra nut driver
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BranVita
I guess its not a HUGE issue, guess we just gotta carry a extra nut driver
Yeah, but your front and rear nuts won't match lol

Which is kinda lame
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:05 AM
  #4597  
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I've had no issues with diffs or driveshafts, so what's benefit for MIP kit?

Planning on try 1 degree hubs in low track mid shortly
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:16 AM
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MIP parts should last longer than OEM. We are wearing out diff outdrives and CVD pins faster than we'd like, that's all. And by reading the parts list, the wheel nuts are metric, but the 12mm hex setscrew is standard(I'd use the Kyosho hex anyway)...feel free to correct me if i'm wrong
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:44 AM
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Originally Posted by t8rtot
I hope you didn't leave the same springs on the car and hope it would preform? The stock springs etc are for rear motor you can't just slap on any ol' setup on the car and expect the car to do work..

This type of thinking is why everyone sells there car off a week after they get it
I should have noted - when I built mid motor I did change to stiffer rear and front springs. Couldn't agree more with above quote though. Seen guys just sell stuff off without working on setup. Last night someone ran with saddle pack mid motor and it handled much better than my shorty pack mid motor.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by MBUCK
I should have noted - when I built mid motor I did change to stiffer rear and front springs. Couldn't agree more with above quote though. Seen guys just sell stuff off without working on setup. Last night someone ran with saddle pack mid motor and it handled much better than my shorty pack mid motor.
Shorty with some underlipo weight is what the Euro team advise on the mid motor. Same weight as saddles but lower gravity center. Around 40g will do.
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by MBUCK
I should have noted - when I built mid motor I did change to stiffer rear and front springs. Couldn't agree more with above quote though. Seen guys just sell stuff off without working on setup. Last night someone ran with saddle pack mid motor and it handled much better than my shorty pack mid motor.
Well believe it or not but the MM doesn't work that bad with the stock springs as long as you stiffen the front oil and don't use too agressive a front tire
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by SAMCRO
I am putting my RB6 together and notice my rear b4 tires don't fit very well, the nut won't go down very far. Anyone else notice this or did I do something wrong? Also, how much of the front b4 tire has to be dremmeled?
do yourself a favor and use Kyosho wheels..
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:28 AM
  #4603  
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so i bought a host of new parts and goodies.

and i will be trying out the Avid slipper setup and top shaft. is anyone currently using it in 17.5 blinky? Feedback?
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Just1More
MIP parts should last longer than OEM. We are wearing out diff outdrives and CVD pins faster than we'd like, that's all. And by reading the parts list, the wheel nuts are metric, but the 12mm hex setscrew is standard(I'd use the Kyosho hex anyway)...feel free to correct me if i'm wrong
cant use the kyosho hex it is driven differently via flat spots on the mip axle and by pin on the kyosho
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by t8rtot
so i bought a host of new parts and goodies.

and i will be trying out the Avid slipper setup and top shaft. is anyone currently using it in 17.5 blinky? Feedback?
Im using it, Its preety sweet compared to the AE or Losi spur/pads.
More bite,feels more consistent, and its quiet.
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