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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-19-2012, 07:03 PM
  #3511  
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Double post.

Last edited by umm winning; 12-19-2012 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:15 PM
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Hey I noticed some are using 4x 55 pistons, are these the Losi 55 pistons?
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:36 PM
  #3513  
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So how many of you have strayed from the kit body and tried the others that are on the market? Just curious as to what your findings where.
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:42 PM
  #3514  
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Originally Posted by rcfiend
Hey I noticed some are using 4x 55 pistons, are these the Losi 55 pistons?
Yes, they are for the TLR22.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:09 PM
  #3515  
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Originally Posted by Kraig
So how many of you have strayed from the kit body and tried the others that are on the market? Just curious as to what your findings where.
I already switched to the JC Finnisher. Imo, it looks alot nicer and I always liked the Finnisher body on the B4.1. As for peformace, I cant tell lol
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:23 PM
  #3516  
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Originally Posted by MIP MATT
I wasn't aware they were more expensive? .
Yeah.. going off the prices listed on your website for just a pair of outdrives, they are more than Kyosho outdrives from Amain. Unless I find somewhere else to buy them, it IS comparing retail to retail.

Originally Posted by MIP MATT
The MIP Diff is a complete diff not just outdrives. The only thing that you take from your old K diff is the screw and tnut assembly.
I understand, but I have no reason to buy an entire diff. It's just the outdrive wear that is making me look for an alternative. The rest of the diff is 100% flawless. If the outdrive wear is considerably better, it will be worth the initial investment. But the cost of replacing out drives after the fact needs to be measured into the equation. If outdrive wear is about the same, then it wouldn't be worth having to buy an entirely new diff as an initial investment.

Originally Posted by MIP MATT
You have to compare MSRP prices. So Apples to Apples MIP diff: $40 and Kyosho Diff: $55. So at A-Main or at your LHS the MIP diff will be around 30 to 35 retail.
Great... if retail price for just the outdrives are equal or less than kyosho, and wear is better, it will be a win/win.

Originally Posted by MIP MATT
The advantage is just that, better quality outdrives. And the kyosho RB5/6 axles are coming We are in the final test stages for you guys. Just don't want to release anything that isn't ready.
Awesome, we can't wait.
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:29 PM
  #3517  
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Originally Posted by rcfiend
Hey I noticed some are using 4x 55 pistons, are these the Losi 55 pistons?
I ran the losi 55s, but didn't like them that much (the piston itself, not the fact its a 4 hole #55). They were not all that smooth, and they don't fit in-between the two containment E-clips like they should. They click back and forth, and I didn't feel like finding that .01mm shim it would take to stabilize it. I ended up switching to the Ghea pistons and they are absolute money! .. pricey, but awesome.
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:39 PM
  #3518  
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Sizes?
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Old 12-20-2012, 01:21 AM
  #3519  
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Originally Posted by rcfiend
Hey I noticed some are using 4x 55 pistons, are these the Losi 55 pistons?
Team drivers are using the Kyosho blank pistons and drilling out 4 holes with a 55 bit. Details and tips a few pages back. The Losi pistons don't fit that well. I prefer the GHEA tapered pistons.

Originally Posted by t8rtot
Sizes?
4-hole 1.3mm
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:41 AM
  #3520  
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The avid's are really nice, too. I've been running the 1.6 + 1.1 4 hole pistons with pretty good results.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:35 AM
  #3521  
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So the consensus is that the 4 hole pistons are better than the kit 5 hole? What size are the 5 hole? Have blank K pistons. Is 55 bit way to go? Don't have 1.3mm bit.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:42 AM
  #3522  
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I'm getting ready to order the GHEA pistons and I have 2 questions.

1) Are these the GHEA 4x1.3 hole pistons everyone is referring to?

2) Can someone confirm that the pistons are installed with the tapered side facing down? I can't afford to make another bone headed mistake

BTW, I've been out to the track twice since my rear suspension block debacle and the buggy has been great both times. I'm still learning how to drive and jump my buggy but it's really planted and easy to drive now.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:45 AM
  #3523  
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Originally Posted by John.C
I'm getting ready to order the GHEA pistons and I have 2 questions.

1) Are these the GHEA 4x1.3 hole pistons everyone is referring to?

2) Can someone confirm that the pistons are installed with the tapered side facing down? I can't afford to make another bone headed mistake

BTW, I've been out to the track twice since my rear suspension block debacle and the buggy has been great both times. I'm still learning how to drive and jump my buggy but it's really planted and easy to drive now.
Its just like driving touring cars with bumps!!!!!!!!!!! You should be pretty dialed at The Track as it has lots of rollers and elevation changes so it is more like a touring car than your would think. I'm sure you will get the hang of it. At least you have the left and right things down.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:52 AM
  #3524  
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Originally Posted by kwiksi
. Is 55 bit way to go? Don't have 1.3mm bit.
yep #55 is actually slightly bigger than a 1.3mm, but its very close. (1.32mm)

Originally Posted by John.C
1) Are these the GHEA 4x1.3 hole pistons everyone is referring to?
Yep

Originally Posted by John.C
2) Can someone confirm that the pistons are installed with the tapered side facing down? I can't afford to make another bone headed mistake
yep
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:06 AM
  #3525  
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Shock tool is now available, pm me if interested they are $12 shipped. sorry about last night not having pics i tried to download them with the phone it must not have worked
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-shock-tool-shock.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-shock-tool.jpg  
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