Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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#1456
Tech Adept
Page 28 Sec.43
i can not get these shocks dialed in,
i believe iam doing them wrong. not like others ive done.
and why these do not have a bladder?
ems
i can not get these shocks dialed in,
i believe iam doing them wrong. not like others ive done.
and why these do not have a bladder?
ems
#1458
Tech Champion
iTrader: (107)
#1459
Moderator
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: North Carolina by way of SoCal!
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Yep, best video as far as explanation and simplicity. Works every time.
#1460
Tech Adept
Thankyou guys.
but isn't there supposed to be rebound?
but isn't there supposed to be rebound?
#1462
Tech Adept
Proves what I don't know.
i believe "I've got an angle"
yes it as all clear now (not my oil).
Thax all again,
they seem to be good now.
ems
i believe "I've got an angle"
yes it as all clear now (not my oil).
Thax all again,
they seem to be good now.
ems
#1464
First thing you want to do is remove any flashings off the arms or bulkhead. These little plastic pieces, from when you break the arms off the tree, will obviously cause binding. Secondly, make sure the holes in the arms and bulkhead are not too tight for the hinge pin. Sometimes, you will need to take an xacto blade and make the holes larger, so that the hinge pins can move freely. Just be careful not to make them too large. A body reamer will also work well for this task. I would also check to make sure that your hinge pins are inserted in the front bulkhead/arms in the proper orientation. There is a long and short segment on either side of the space for the set screw. I believe the short side goes in first, while the long side is up front and captured by the hinge pin brace ( I could be mistaking on the direction, defer to your manual to make sure). Also, make sure your set screw is not overtightened, if it is, this will bind up the arms. I had absolutely no binding when I built this car...hopefully this helps.
I'll use an arm reamer or some other hardware to get some plastic off... This does not happen in an Xray kit for example... It's my first Kyosho though.
Thanks people
#1465
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
With a non-bladder shock, it's pretty much impossible to get any rebound if you build the shock correctly. You either can push the shaft in the whole way with no rebound, or the shock will hydraulic because there is no bladder to compensate for the increased volume (the volume of the shock shaft itself) inside the shock body.
#1468
I did the first 2 things and i guess what is causing the binding is the fact that, when i inserted the little screw which prevents the hinge pin to come out of place, the whole where the hinge pin is supposed to get in is tightened like if the plastic of the screw hole comes to this second hole (where the hinge pin goes). It's quite hard to explain ahahah
I'll use an arm reamer or some other hardware to get some plastic off... This does not happen in an Xray kit for example... It's my first Kyosho though.
Thanks people
I'll use an arm reamer or some other hardware to get some plastic off... This does not happen in an Xray kit for example... It's my first Kyosho though.
Thanks people
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Turnbuckle-Kit
After you have bled your shocks, compress the shock all the way by holding onto the eyelet. If it does not move down at all when you release it; then you have 0 rebound. If the shaft moves down; then you have rebound. As others have stated, most do not run rebound. Watch the video on how to build kyosho shocks. To achieve no rebound when you are building your shocks; bleed out enough oil that when it is compressed fully, the piston is not pushed down at all. Just make sure that a consistent amount of resistance is felt when moving the piston though the shock body with no spring on it. You can incorrectly build a shock with no rebound because there is not enough oil to fill the body and resist the motion of the piston throughout its full travel.
Last edited by Entr0phy; 10-12-2012 at 11:16 PM.
#1469
Tech Adept
Now I want a Full Scale RB6 1:1
Oh yes i will
Oh yes i will
#1470
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Hey guys. I am on step 10 and have a quick question....the Japanese set up calls for a caster block setting of 4 degrees. Is that achieved by using the hub bushings (a4 and b4)?
Thanks.
Thanks.