Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread >

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree172Likes

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-08-2012, 10:00 PM
  #1246  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (27)
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 563
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Fresh paint for Mdowney
SAGISI is offline  
Old 10-08-2012, 11:18 PM
  #1247  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 49
Default

Carbides or tungsten carbides?
Bluehills315 is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 12:10 AM
  #1248  
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
Z00M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,173
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

I run ceramic thrust and diff balls in all my kyosho diffs (2wd and 4wd) and they work great. No slipping/barking and loosen up well once run in. If you overtighten ceramic filled diffs they will dent the rings and the diff will not last.
Z00M is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 12:33 AM
  #1249  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
CanyonCarverR1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NorCal
Posts: 1,338
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Wiring is done, paint is tomorrow and Tuesday, testing is Wednesday, Northwest Gold Cup is Fri-Sun. Can't wait.

Are those Lunsford ball studs?
CanyonCarverR1 is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 03:15 AM
  #1250  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: concord ca.
Posts: 230
Default

well the RB6 is here, well over there.
wouldn't ya know it came in at no better time than when i happen to be puttn' The Wildfire in it's stage of completion a part is not in its bag nor its box.
so the buggy will be fitted this A.M.

p.s. good read on the diff balls.
Eric Summers is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 04:31 AM
  #1251  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 581
Default

Originally Posted by Z00M
I run ceramic thrust and diff balls in all my kyosho diffs (2wd and 4wd) and they work great. No slipping/barking and loosen up well once run in. If you overtighten ceramic filled diffs they will dent the rings and the diff will not last.
What thrust balls are you using as I have only ever used kit
mikeyscott is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 08:20 AM
  #1252  
Tech Lord
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,085
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
Are those Lunsford ball studs?
ballstuds? Yes.
Cpt.America is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 08:26 AM
  #1253  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 581
Default

Originally Posted by Cpt.America
ballstuds? Yes.
V nice
mikeyscott is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 09:33 AM
  #1254  
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
 
John.C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The track
Posts: 1,341
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm learning a lot about offroad 2wd buggies from this thread! I've modified my list by adding and removing items based on the recommendations. So far, the build/setup is going very smoothly. However, I've observed/ran into a few things that didn't go exactly as planned and/or wasn't clear in the manual/setup sheet.

1) Some filing/cutting was required on the underside of the "Front Upper Plate" to ensure it sat flush on top of the "Front Bulkhead". I'm not exactly sure why this piece was molded this way. I'm going to assume that I made the right call in removing this piece.

2) I want to confirm that 'Block position: In' = wider front track width and 'Block position: Out' = narrower front track width.

3) There is play/slop between the suspension bushings and the composite suspension holders. I hope that the alum suspension holders and the delrin bushings takes care of this issue.
John.C is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 09:44 AM
  #1255  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
t8rtot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,015
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

1) correct

2)i'm looking into that

3)that is interesting as i don't have any slop anywhere. i'd check to make sure they are the correct bushing and if they are and it is an unreasonable amount of play, i would look into using this http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=2126
t8rtot is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 09:45 AM
  #1256  
Tech Lord
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,085
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by John.C
1) Some filing/cutting was required on the underside of the "Front Upper Plate" to ensure it sat flush on top of the "Front Bulkhead". I'm not exactly sure why this piece was molded this way. I'm going to assume that I made the right call in removing this piece.
Yes! Sorry that wasn't mentioned, I think a lot of us Kyosho builders are just used that huge piece of flashing being there on all the kits. I just shave my off with an ex-acto blade. You made the right decision

Originally Posted by John.C
2) I want to confirm that 'Block position: In' = wider front track width and 'Block position: Out' = narrower front track width.
Im not sure what this is referring to, sorry. Ill have to look at the manual and get back to ya. (unless somebody chimes in quicker that knows off hand!)

(edit: what page is this in the manual? I don't see anything about changing front track. I wasn't aware you could, besides shimming/rigging the front axles.)

Originally Posted by John.C
3) There is play/slop between the suspension bushings and the composite suspension holders. I hope that the alum suspension holders and the delrin bushings takes care of this issue.
When using the plastic suspension holders, make sure you are running the metal bushings. When running the metal hangers, run the plastic or derlin bushings. I don't recall seeing much play when running the metal hangers, and the white plastic/derlin bushings.
Cpt.America is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 10:00 AM
  #1257  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
t8rtot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,015
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

its on the setup sheet
t8rtot is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 10:02 AM
  #1258  
Tech Master
iTrader: (121)
 
fullsyzz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Reno, Nevada
Posts: 1,679
Trader Rating: 121 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by John.C
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm learning a lot about offroad 2wd buggies from this thread! I've modified my list by adding and removing items based on the recommendations. So far, the build/setup is going very smoothly. However, I've observed/ran into a few things that didn't go exactly as planned and/or wasn't clear in the manual/setup sheet.

1) Some filing/cutting was required on the underside of the "Front Upper Plate" to ensure it sat flush on top of the "Front Bulkhead". I'm not exactly sure why this piece was molded this way. I'm going to assume that I made the right call in removing this piece.

2) I want to confirm that 'Block position: In' = wider front track width and 'Block position: Out' = narrower front track width.

3) There is play/slop between the suspension bushings and the composite suspension holders. I hope that the alum suspension holders and the delrin bushings takes care of this issue.
The way I interpret #2 is opposite of how it is described above. To me, if the caster blocks are mounted in (caster insert holes toward the chassis) I get a narrower track width.
fullsyzz is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 10:02 AM
  #1259  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 6,272
Trader Rating: 170 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys, had a quick question for you, i was looking through some of the rb6 stuff and it looks like the step 2.0 rear wing is really popular. Then i check the price out and its about $14 for one wing...im a AE guy and usually use the JC wings and get 2 for about $8-10. Are the kyosho wings molded out of a thicker lexan, like the LMR wings? Also, just curious, did any of you used to have a B4.1 that could compare the rb6 to? I just saw my first one run this past weekend and it looked awesome. Thanks!
Matt Trimmings is offline  
Old 10-09-2012, 10:05 AM
  #1260  
Tech Master
iTrader: (121)
 
fullsyzz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Reno, Nevada
Posts: 1,679
Trader Rating: 121 (100%+)
Default

I think the only way you can get away with changing the front track width by flipping the caster inserts is if you use the "0" insert. If you flip the 2 or 4 insert so the hole is on the outside I think it will screw up the caster, but I'm not sure.
fullsyzz is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.